62 Falcon club wagon. No spark!!
#1
04-03-2014, 11:30 AM
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62 Falcon club wagon. No spark!!
Bought a 1962 Falcon club wagon van. Just fell in love with it. Needs some TLC tho.
Engine turns over. It has the 144 straight 6 in it. But I'm not getting and spark. Put new coil in. New rotor and distribitor cap. I noticed there some gouge marks where the rotor has Been hitting. Never really worked on distribitors before. Should I get new plugs and plug wires? Or I may not be doing something right idk.
Any advice will help thank you!
Engine turns over. It has the 144 straight 6 in it. But I'm not getting and spark. Put new coil in. New rotor and distribitor cap. I noticed there some gouge marks where the rotor has Been hitting. Never really worked on distribitors before. Should I get new plugs and plug wires? Or I may not be doing something right idk.
Any advice will help thank you!
#3
04-03-2014, 02:03 PM
Join Date: Mar 2005
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tough call.
but start with the basics.
are you getting power to the coil?
if yes, then check the points. if the points are good, try changing the condenser.
that should get you going.
if no power to the coil, back track to the ignition switch. if you have power out of the switch but not at the coil the resister wire is bad.
if no power out of the switch,
look for power into the switch.
but start with the basics.
are you getting power to the coil?
if yes, then check the points. if the points are good, try changing the condenser.
that should get you going.
if no power to the coil, back track to the ignition switch. if you have power out of the switch but not at the coil the resister wire is bad.
if no power out of the switch,
look for power into the switch.
#4
04-03-2014, 02:09 PM
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It last ran in 2011. Plugs were black but I cleaned the up. I checked be taking the number one plug out connect the plug wire to it. Hold it somewhere against the engine and crank it
#5
04-03-2014, 02:11 PM
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tough call.
but start with the basics.
are you getting power to the coil?
if yes, then check the points. if the points are good, try changing the condenser.
that should get you going.
if no power to the coil, back track to the ignition switch. if you have power out of the switch but not at the coil the resister wire is bad.
if no power out of the switch,
look for power into the switch.
but start with the basics.
are you getting power to the coil?
if yes, then check the points. if the points are good, try changing the condenser.
that should get you going.
if no power to the coil, back track to the ignition switch. if you have power out of the switch but not at the coil the resister wire is bad.
if no power out of the switch,
look for power into the switch.
The points looked a little dirty. Stuck some sandpaper between them and pulled it out couple times. Maybe it cleaned them. Not sure how to tell if there bad or not
#6
04-03-2014, 02:17 PM
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disconnect the wire from points to the coil. then remove the condenser wire from the points. take a multi meter and set it to ohms.
put one lead to the wire that hooks to the coil. the other lead to ground. turn the engine over. when the points close, the meter should show zero ohms. when the points open there should be no reading at all.
or just change the points and condenser anyway. they are pretty cheap, i bet you could get both for under $15.
put one lead to the wire that hooks to the coil. the other lead to ground. turn the engine over. when the points close, the meter should show zero ohms. when the points open there should be no reading at all.
or just change the points and condenser anyway. they are pretty cheap, i bet you could get both for under $15.
#7
04-03-2014, 03:45 PM
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#8
04-03-2014, 06:26 PM
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disconnect the wire from points to the coil. then remove the condenser wire from the points. take a multi meter and set it to ohms.
put one lead to the wire that hooks to the coil. the other lead to ground. turn the engine over. when the points close, the meter should show zero ohms. when the points open there should be no reading at all.
or just change the points and condenser anyway. they are pretty cheap, i bet you could get both for under $15.
put one lead to the wire that hooks to the coil. the other lead to ground. turn the engine over. when the points close, the meter should show zero ohms. when the points open there should be no reading at all.
or just change the points and condenser anyway. they are pretty cheap, i bet you could get both for under $15.
Started with just cleaning everything up, Gound and all the connections. That did the trick. (Somthing i should of done in the first place, Sorry to waste your time ha) But i checked the 1st and 2nd plug, they look wet so fuel is getting to them. i assume its a timming issue now right?
#9
04-03-2014, 07:25 PM
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#10
04-03-2014, 10:15 PM
Well - let's back up a sec - you say you are getting a spark, is it a good bluish spark? Should hear a nice snap, too. It's possible to have spark voltage, but is too weak to jump the gap of the plugs when under compression, and stale fuel wouldn't help either.
New plugs aren't a bad idea in any case, probably won't be a show stopper at this point. You can clean them up, sure, and dress the electrodes a bit so they have sharp flat surfaces. Rotor should not be gouging anything under the distributor cap. May not have been the right one?
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New plugs aren't a bad idea in any case, probably won't be a show stopper at this point. You can clean them up, sure, and dress the electrodes a bit so they have sharp flat surfaces. Rotor should not be gouging anything under the distributor cap. May not have been the right one?
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#11
04-04-2014, 10:43 AM
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Well - let's back up a sec - you say you are getting a spark, is it a good bluish spark? Should hear a nice snap, too. It's possible to have spark voltage, but is too weak to jump the gap of the plugs when under compression, and stale fuel wouldn't help either.
New plugs aren't a bad idea in any case, probably won't be a show stopper at this point. You can clean them up, sure, and dress the electrodes a bit so they have sharp flat surfaces. Rotor should not be gouging anything under the distributor cap. May not have been the right one?
Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
New plugs aren't a bad idea in any case, probably won't be a show stopper at this point. You can clean them up, sure, and dress the electrodes a bit so they have sharp flat surfaces. Rotor should not be gouging anything under the distributor cap. May not have been the right one?
Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
#12
05-16-2014, 11:42 AM
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