Dual tensioner upgrade mod done w/pics
#16
Yes you do. Here is some better pictures: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...rade-pics.html
Alex: Amazon.com: Motorcraft BT-50 Belt Tensioner: Automotive
another place:OEM F8UZ-6B209-CA Belt Tensioner Assembly | Frugal Mechanic
Alex: Amazon.com: Motorcraft BT-50 Belt Tensioner: Automotive
another place:OEM F8UZ-6B209-CA Belt Tensioner Assembly | Frugal Mechanic
DS
#17
I am thinking about getting the Gates one...
Robot Check
It's a bit cheaper and has good reviews....
Richard
EDT: interesting, the TSB calls for use of the Econoline (van) tensioner for the trucks too.... that would be gates 39100 as opposed to gates 38191 which is for the superduty.
EDT2: further research seems to indicate that Gates modified the design for the superduty trucks where ford used the same design for both. Hmmm...
Robot Check
It's a bit cheaper and has good reviews....
Richard
EDT: interesting, the TSB calls for use of the Econoline (van) tensioner for the trucks too.... that would be gates 39100 as opposed to gates 38191 which is for the superduty.
EDT2: further research seems to indicate that Gates modified the design for the superduty trucks where ford used the same design for both. Hmmm...
For $30 more, I'd go with Glenn's OEM link, but it's your call obviously.
DS
#18
#21
x3
Since I am doing the water pump soon and you guys happen to have this thread going.. it just seems like a "might as well" cuz my tensioner looks to have a bit too much movement.
And I have a spare bracket from my other engine so I can make the modification without worrying about Fin up my truck! lol
Edit: Great links by the way glenn! Between this and your Mare thread I've found almost all I need to know about the T44E water pump and dual tensioner mods! lol
Since I am doing the water pump soon and you guys happen to have this thread going.. it just seems like a "might as well" cuz my tensioner looks to have a bit too much movement.
And I have a spare bracket from my other engine so I can make the modification without worrying about Fin up my truck! lol
Edit: Great links by the way glenn! Between this and your Mare thread I've found almost all I need to know about the T44E water pump and dual tensioner mods! lol
#23
#25
New guy Greg has a good point. Richard, let us know what the decals would cost to get done and I'd send some coin your way.
I think I would take several to squirrel a couple away.
DS
#26
I appreciate the great pics and info
I did this mod this weekend on my recently acquired '95 and just wanted to say thanks for the thread. Lots of info you find on the web is outdated, so it is good to find a recent post.
I bought my parts from AutoNation aka Tousley Ford Parts.
Tensioner: F8UZ6B209CA $81.68
Belt: 1C2Z8620LA $44.26
Plus shipping costs. Parts arrived in 3 days.
I took my time and it was off, back in and done in 2 hours. I used a sawzall to cut the boss and a 4-1/2" grinder with a cut wheel to cut down the rib. Then a grind wheel to kind of smooth it all up.
I originally heard a squeak and thought the old tensioner was rubbing the idler pulley, but when I took them off I didn't see any fresh rub marks. Belt I took off was pretty new, so maybe I am heading off a problem.
I also took a tip from somewhere and carefully took the seal out of the upper idler bearing, wiped out what I could of the old grease and put some fresh grease in there.
I would also like to have a decal, but the routing was pretty much the same. I mostly would like to have the belt part number on there so that next time I will remember to buy the longer belt.
I bought my parts from AutoNation aka Tousley Ford Parts.
Tensioner: F8UZ6B209CA $81.68
Belt: 1C2Z8620LA $44.26
Plus shipping costs. Parts arrived in 3 days.
I took my time and it was off, back in and done in 2 hours. I used a sawzall to cut the boss and a 4-1/2" grinder with a cut wheel to cut down the rib. Then a grind wheel to kind of smooth it all up.
I originally heard a squeak and thought the old tensioner was rubbing the idler pulley, but when I took them off I didn't see any fresh rub marks. Belt I took off was pretty new, so maybe I am heading off a problem.
I also took a tip from somewhere and carefully took the seal out of the upper idler bearing, wiped out what I could of the old grease and put some fresh grease in there.
I would also like to have a decal, but the routing was pretty much the same. I mostly would like to have the belt part number on there so that next time I will remember to buy the longer belt.
#27
#29
#30
I didn't think you were supposed to use a standard grinding wheel on aluminum. Something about the Al collecting in the grittiness of the wheel until BOOM it explodes from the extra mass of the Al.