So my slave cylinder started leaking awhile back in my good ol 94 f150 4x4 4.9L with 230,000 miles hooked up to the M5OD trans. After watching a couple videos on this project and reading a lot in the forums, I figured it was something I could tackle.
What. A. Nightmare.
If this new slave fails again I'm just swapping the trans.

For those back yard mechanics looking to tackle this project, here are some of the various tools you will need.
BEER. A lot of it.
A helper ( two sets of hands really makes this a lot easier)
Jack stands
A decent jack
A decent socket/box wrench set
A couple tie down straps
Liquid wrench or similar penetrant.

Start by removing negative from battery, then going under the truck and hitting all the nuts and bolts you will be removing for this job with the liquid wrench. Start with the drive shaft connection to rear diff. Then the front shaft, Then cross member bolts. Be sure to get the bolts on the bell housing and also the shifter bolts. I left the T-case attached to the trans when I did this and didn't drain either of them but that's preference. While the liquid wrench does it's job crack open a beer and use this time to set up your work area under you truck laying out your various tool sets/jack stands.
Start by removing 4 bolts on rear drive shaft. When pulling out of t-case be sure to have a rag ready because a small amount of t-case fluid will come out when shaft is removed from slip yoke on t-case. Now remove front drive shaft from from diff, I left it attached to t-case but zip tied out of the way. Now remove the two electrical connectors on drivers side, one on t-case and one on trans. Remove t-case shifter, and trans shifter. To remove trans shifter, remove shifter boot inside truck and you will see where shifter connects to trans. Remove the bolt that is on the passenger side of shifter and thread it onto drivers side and tighten. Pin will come out, Then pull shifter up and out.
Inspect you shifter bushing while you are there and replace if needed. Mine was okay. Remove the line, going to from trans to slave master cylinder, from transmission. My new one came with a tool to remove old fitting.

Now get your jack and slightly jack up trans. Then put a jack stand underneath. I placed one mid trans area and at the end of the t-case. Now remove all crossmember nuts and bolts and get those outta the way, I left the trans mount connected to crossmember and removed bolts from mount to trans. Now remove starter and set aside.

Now you should be looking at just your trans and t-case being supported by jack stands with nothing left to remove but bell housing bolts. The two bolts on top are a pain. Lucky for me I have a 4"body lift and was able to get to them fairly easily from underneath with a couple extensions, If not you will need to lay over motor and get them from on top. Remove remaining bell housing bolts. Now get your inebriated helper. Run a couple of tie down straps from frame rail to frame rail and underneath trans/t-case and slightly tighten down so that if the trans falls the straps will support it.

Now me and my little brother were able to "bench press" the whole trans/t-case up slightly and out of the engine while inching jack stand back. A third set of hands may help here to move stands but if you're feeling as badass as me and my bro after a few brews then two should be plenty. Now once pulled back far enough replace your old internal slave cylinder, two bolt hold that sucker on, and install a your new one. Installation is reverse of removal.

Once you have it all back together be sure to bleed all the air out of the slave, whichever bleeding style you prefer will do.

Well this is my first post guys so if I've missed anything go easy on meh. Hope this helps anybody out there.

 

You 1st mistake was working drunk

The 2nd was leaving the t-case on the trans

 

Ehh got it done either way.