460 blowing oil
#1
460 blowing oil
I had my mechanic build a 460 for me a year ago. Just got the funds to do final install on my 1977 f250 4x4 with a c6. Motor sounds great. Idles fine. However, running the truck at 50+mph for longer than 5 minutes causes oil to pour out the dipstick tube, Pcv valve, passenger valve cover on the side, and drivers valve cover at the rear. Mechanic says oil pressure is fine and motor temperature is in the safe range.
Here's a list of what was done to the motor during build.
-Block and heads hot tanked/checked for cracks.
-Heads rebuilt/resurfaced(3 burnt valves)
-Block was not bored. Still had cross hatch marks from factory.
-New rings. Same pistons.
-New camshaft
-New timing set
-New 7 qt oil pan
-New standard oil pump
-Edelbrock performer intake
-Intake sealed with gaskets on the sides and silicon on front, rear, and around water jackets.
-Pcv valve on passenger valve cover. No fresh air intake on drivers side valve cover.
Anyone know why this is happening?
Here's a list of what was done to the motor during build.
-Block and heads hot tanked/checked for cracks.
-Heads rebuilt/resurfaced(3 burnt valves)
-Block was not bored. Still had cross hatch marks from factory.
-New rings. Same pistons.
-New camshaft
-New timing set
-New 7 qt oil pan
-New standard oil pump
-Edelbrock performer intake
-Intake sealed with gaskets on the sides and silicon on front, rear, and around water jackets.
-Pcv valve on passenger valve cover. No fresh air intake on drivers side valve cover.
Anyone know why this is happening?
#2
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: West Central Southern MN
Posts: 811
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had my mechanic build a 460 for me a year ago. Just got the funds to do final install on my 1977 f250 4x4 with a c6. Motor sounds great. Idles fine. However, running the truck at 50+mph for longer than 5 minutes causes oil to pour out the dipstick tube, Pcv valve, passenger valve cover on the side, and drivers valve cover at the rear. Mechanic says oil pressure is fine and motor temperature is in the safe range. Here's a list of what was done to the motor during build. -Block and heads hot tanked/checked for cracks. -Heads rebuilt/resurfaced(3 burnt valves) -Block was not bored. Still had cross hatch marks from factory. -New rings. Same pistons. -New camshaft -New timing set -New 7 qt oil pan -New standard oil pump -Edelbrock performer intake -Intake sealed with gaskets on the sides and silicon on front, rear, and around water jackets. -Pcv valve on passenger valve cover. No fresh air intake on drivers side valve cover. Anyone know why this is happening?
What cam did you put in? What RPM's are you hitting at 50?
This sounds somewhat similar to my first attempt at my rebuild. I wasn't getting oil blowout like you, but I didn't bore it out and started getting blow by on a couple of cylinders.
Too much oil in the new pan?
#3
#5
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: West Central Southern MN
Posts: 811
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#6
#7
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: West Central Southern MN
Posts: 811
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Trending Topics
#8
Is it just a deeper oil pan? What was the original oil amount, 5 Qts.?
What does the dipstick read now, on level ground, after being shut off for at least 10 minutes or so? Original dipstick and dipstick tube, I assume.
If there IS too much oil, the crank could be beating the bejesus out of the oil, foaming it up, the foam will expand everywhere.
Another idea is that for some reason, oil isn't returning to the crankcase fast enough and is pooling up on top of the heads. Drain holes on top of heads under the valve covers restricted somehow? That could explain all the oil coming out up top, but would not explain oil coming out of the dipstick tube opening. Oil out of the top of the dipstick tube sounds more like the oil foaming issue.
What does the dipstick read now, on level ground, after being shut off for at least 10 minutes or so? Original dipstick and dipstick tube, I assume.
If there IS too much oil, the crank could be beating the bejesus out of the oil, foaming it up, the foam will expand everywhere.
Another idea is that for some reason, oil isn't returning to the crankcase fast enough and is pooling up on top of the heads. Drain holes on top of heads under the valve covers restricted somehow? That could explain all the oil coming out up top, but would not explain oil coming out of the dipstick tube opening. Oil out of the top of the dipstick tube sounds more like the oil foaming issue.
#9
Talked to actual Ford guy who is a machinist. He says the synthetic oil I'm running is most likely the problem. The rings will not seat with the oil I'm running. I'll try running a regular/non detergent oil with added zinc. The rings are not seating, causing massive blowby. If this doesn't work, I will be getting a book and tearing the motor down myself! -Oil pan came with its own dipstick. 7qt pan.
#10
Update: Drained the oil and changed the filter. Added 7 qts of 30 wt with no detergents. Motor stopped puking oil within 2miles of running it in 2nd (automatic tranny). I ran it another 64 miles at altering rpm levels and speeds. Oil level never altered. I think it's safe to say that the rings finally seated! I can't wait to get the rest of the truck rebuilt. That motor has piles of torque. I still can't believe it. Holy.....cow!
#11
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: West Central Southern MN
Posts: 811
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MacFastStang
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
11-20-2006 06:16 PM
95ford250_460
Big Block V8 - 385 Series (6.1/370, 7.0/429, 7.5/460)
1
01-11-2005 03:35 AM