Haven't been able to start the truck today-
I noticed last night the WTS light wasn't coming on, but there was a delay, and the clicking as normal.

I check gp resistance- they're all around 1.5. I've read anything under 2 was okay.

I swapped out the GP controller since I had another one lying around. No Change.

There is power to the controller. I haven't checked to see if there is power to the harness at the bottom of the zig zag thing with the key turned.

I even read somewhere that tightening up the contacts on the starter solenoid might fix it- and behold, the nuts were loose, but after tightening em still no WTS light and no start.

Battery is charged up, no air in the lines.

Does the light itself have anything to do with the GPs functioning? or is it just an indicator that doesn't matter?

 

if the WTS light does not come on, that is usually an indication of no power to the glow plugs.

i would put a test light to one of the glow plugs and turn the key on if the test light does not light up, you are not getting power to the plugs.
that means either the glow plug relay is not working, or the controller is not working

 

I have an 84, so it's the old style controller. When my WTS light didn't come on, it was because the controller was bad. The controller is what sends the signal to the lamp in the dash.

 

84 system is completely different from the 7.3 system

 

What is the difference between the relay and the controller?

The fuse in the power distro box for the glow plugs (20 maxi) is fine.

 

the relay is just that a relay it makes and breaks the power connection for the plugs.
the controller is under the relay, and determines when and how long the relay is closed.

 

Any possible diagnosis?

I've tried two different controllers, the first one and the one off my old motor- they've made the plugs act the same- No WTS light, a pause, then the clicks.

The pause is only a few seconds, not 10-15. It's 10 degrees outside.

Is 1.5 ohms too much resistance for the plugs?

 

is there power going to the glow plugs?

 

No I don't think so. I ran around with a voltameter with prods and pretty sure I made good contact to see I'm not getting power to the plugs.

 

The glow plugs in my truck are hooked up to a manual system. You can bypass all the ignition and relay switches and hook them to a switch of your choice. I chose to go with a reg. on/off 50 amp toggle switch from napa, but you can use I push and hold style so they don't continue to run. You just have to pay a little closer attention and monitor a little more than just waiting til the light goes out. You can mandate how long they run for colder or warmer starts and it's way more simple to troubleshoot. And on top of it all the key doesn't have to be on so you aren't drawing extra power for lights, auxiliaries, and such while they're heating up.

1983 F-250 XLT reg cab custom steel flatbed, custom steel front bumper w/ warn winch, 33" BFG all terrains, 7.3L k&n filter system, tuned injection pump down-piped dual 3" exhaust, pillar pod with glow shift gauges, C-6 auto with shift kit. p.s... yes it was converted from a 6.9L.

 

power to the controller is from the ignition, power to the relay comes from the binding post, on the start relay passenger side fender, there is a fusible link in this wire, two systems, low current and high current, if the relay is clicking but no heat at plugs, you have a high current power problem, could be dirty connection or bad fusible link, use a volt meter or suitable device to make certain that power is present. make certain the bulb is good in the dash.