1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
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The Ford Fleet web site has a tech service bulletin on oil viscosity. Ford recommends 5W-20 on 1993-2002 model F-150s. I attached the piece here. Have any of you made this switch?
ENGINE - ENGINE OIL - RECOMMENDED APPLICATIONS FOR SAE 5W-20 AND SAE 5W-30 MOTOR OILS - GASOLINE AND FLEXIBLE FUEL VEHICLES ONLY
Publication Date: JANUARY 14, 2002
FORD: 1992-2002 CROWN VICTORIA
1993-2002 ESCORT, MUSTANG, TAURUS
1998-2002 ESCORT ZX2
1993-2002 E SERIES, F-150, RANGER
1997-99 F-250 LD
1999-2002 SUPER DUTY F SERIES, SUPER DUTY F-53 STRIPPED CHAS.
LINCOLN: 1991-2002 TOWN CAR
1993-98 MARK VIII
MERCURY: 1992-2002 GRAND MARQUIS
This article is being republished in its entirety to update the vehicle models, engines and years affected.
NOTE: PLEASE REFER TO THE VEHICLE APPLICATION LIST LATER IN THIS TSB FOR A COMPLETE LIST OF VEHICLES AFFECTED BY THIS TSB.
Ford Motor Company now recommends SAE 5W-20 viscosity grade for servicing most gasoline and flexible fueled vehicles.
All 2001 and 2002 vehicles where SAE 5W-20 is specified should be serviced at the recommended oil change intervals using SAE 5W-20. This oil is an improved formulation to improve fuel economy. Testing has validated this viscosity grade can be used in many previous model year vehicles. It is recommended ALL vehicles on the following Vehicle Application Listing be service with SAE 5W-20.
All 2001-2002 vehicles other than those listed in the "Exception 2001 Vehicles" or "Exception 2002 Vehicles" chart are being filled with SAE 5W-20 motor oil at the factory and should also be serviced with SAE 5W-20 oil.
2000-2002 5.4L Excursion
1998-2002 5.4L 2V/4V Navigator
1997-2002 5.4L 2V F-150/250 (under 8500 GVW only), Expedition, E-Series, E-350 Chassis/RV/Cutaway
1993-1997 5.8L F-Series, Bronco
1993-1996 5.8L E-Series
2000-2002 6.8L Excursion
1997-2002 6.8L E-Series, E-350 Chassis/RV/Cutaway
1999-2002 6.8L Super Duty F-Series 250 HD/350/450/550 Motorhome
1993-1998 7.5L All Vehicles
NOTE: FOR 1993 THROUGH 1998 MODEL YEAR FFV USE XO-10W30-FFV.
NOTE: THE "EXCEPTION 2001-2002 VEHICLES" SHOULD BE SERVICED WITH SAE 5W-30 MOTOR OIL.
Exception 2001 Vehicles
3.9L Lincoln LS
4.0L Ranger, Explorer/Mountaineer, Explorer Sport, and Explorer Sport Trac
Exception 2002 Vehicles
2.0L HP Zetec SVT Focus
4.0L Ranger, Explorer/Mountaineer, Explorer Sport, and Explorer Sport Trac
NOTE: IF VEHICLE IS NOT LISTED IN THIS APPLICATION, SAE 5W-30 OIL IS RECOMMENDED. REFER TO TSB 99-8-16.
PART NUMBER PART NAME
XO-5W20-QSP SAE 5W-20 Motor Oil - Quart (USA)
CXO-5W20-LSP12 SAE 5W-20 Motor Oil - Litre (Canada)
XO-5W20-5QSP SAE 5W-20 Motor Oil - 5 Quart Jug (USA)
XO-5W20-DSP SAE 5W-20 Motor Oil - 55 Gallon Drum (USA)
CXO-5W20-DBSP SAE 5W-20 Motor Oil - 205 Litre Drum (Canada)
I'm running 20w-50 in my 95 T-Bird 4.6 and in my 86 F150 302. Sure, that thin oil gets better gas mileage when driving only 3 miles to pick up groceries from the market., but do you really feel comfy driving across the dessert in 110 degree heat with that thin watery looking stuff.? I don't think sooooo...
Yes, it's strictly an emissions deal. The lighter oil causes less internal friction & windage in the crankcase, but the engine wears out faster, which is why all the mfrs. are going along with it. New engines have bearings designed to use the light oil, but not our old cast-iron blocks. Stick with the goo - I use only 20W50.
I only use what is necessary, if it doesn't use oil and has good oil pressure why run something thicker than it needs? You are only wasting gas if you run something thicker than you need.......have you ever tried to pour 20w-50 into your truck when it is 20 degrees outside? Pours like maple syrup....so why would you put that into your truck when it doesn't need it? I can only imagine how long maple syrup takes to circulate in my truck when its cold...
Besides, I work at a Honda dealership where we have been running 5w-20 since 2001. Haven't had a single oil related problem in over 2 years. So before you guys start knocking thinner oil.....when was the last time you guys got 50 mpg out of a tempo? Just something to think about.
The civic hybrid and insight run 0w-20.....how about that?
I use to run 20w-50 in my 88 bronco II. I noticed the valves rattled severly when first starting up on a cold engine. I researched the grades of oil on the web and found that hardly any car needs 20w-50 in north america. I started running 10w-40 and the valves only rattle a little when starting cold now. It seems to take much longer for that "maple syrup" jakeman mentioned to pump up the lifters. If it takes longer to pump up, doesn't it follow that it takes longer for the oil to move through out the engine when starting? Most friction is at start up as the Castrol commercial says Also, doesn't it follow that if thicker oil affects gas mileage that it would affect horsepower also?
I guess if you have an oil ring leak problem, a thicker oil is a good idea. Otherwise, I am using what Ford recommends.
Hey Steve, you said less friction, doesn't that equal less wear? Of course, you say windage, I guess you mean the flow of oil and air throughout and I guess the oil stays put longer when thicker which is a good thing.
Originally posted by broncobasher Hey Steve, you said less friction, doesn't that equal less wear? Of course, you say windage, I guess you mean the flow of oil and air throughout and I guess the oil stays put longer when thicker which is a good thing.
No , the "friction" I was referring to was the viscosity of the oil. Since it's already a liquid, it doesn't wear even though it has LOTS of internal friction. That friction (viscosity/resistance to motion) is what keeps it between the metal parts, and keeps THEM from wearing.
"Windage" is the power loss of oil sloshing against the moving parts of the engine, specifically the backsides of the pistons and the big ends of the rods. Have you ever noticed how much of an IMPACT you feel when you hit your own tire spray from a 1" deep puddle? Did you ever think how much LESS viscous water is than oil and how much impact the pistons get when there's oil resting against them?
The lighter oil flows out of the gaps more easily, allowing the metal to actually touch on our old engines. On newer engines designed for light oil (like the VW & Honda), the bearing gaps are much smaller to keep the oil film in place.
My engine has somewhere around 350,000 miles - how big of a bearing gap do you suppose I have to keep full and what weight of oil would you run? Based on what I learned from my last 2 engines, I'm sticking with 20W50 in the Memphis climate. We rarely see 20° even when we'd LIKE to! Last Christmas, I was running around outside in shorts, and still came close to breaking a sweat.
Water puddle is a good analogy Steve.Thats why most race engines run windage tray's or dry sump systems.I'm kinda fond of Mobil 1 myself.Been running the Ford 5w20 in the 02 mustang.Now that she's broke in gonna switch to 5w30 mobil 1.I just don't like running 20 wt in the heat down here.Motorcraft filters are made by purolator and cheaper.
I've found that changed visc. of oil to "fix" mechanical wear or to improve oil flow or pressure is not logical. I run 10w30 for years and several 100K miles on '70-'90s trucks. All Ford, all gas, I6 &V8. Texas does have cold winters. I've seen 0-10 degrees, 20s more common. Summers stay around '90s but often go over 100. It is true that new engines have different specs and can use thinner oil. Thank Washington and CAFE for stricter emissions and mpg laws.
Oil will not "fix" ring wear or broken rings. If you have a leak, why not fix it? Using stop leak or thicker oil will only create more problems later. I have found that nothing will fix a wore out engine except a new engine. I have switched brands of oil several times in the past because I didn't like the look of the engine when I tore it down. I have never been let down by Motorcraft oils. I do know that they were made by someone else just as the filters are. If the prices remain comparible to other brands I do not care. I would not pay triple or even double for their oil though.
I have had success and satisfaction from the oil I have used so I am hesitant to change without having a reason. I'm sure that Ford provides research info and results. The sticker under my hood said to use 10w30 so I did. If I trust them to build my truck, why wouldn't I use the oil suggested? Now they tell me to change? If they can show where I will get>1mpg improvement without any durability/longeivity loss in the engine, I would try it. I just am not willing to change every time a paper comes out. I'm more stable and secure than that. I need my trucks to stay working. If I need change variety my life I look at the females around my house and what they change.
By the way I believe the engines are more tolerant than some of you suggest. I've seen them run on chainsaw oil and even cooking oil. No they weren't mine nor do I believe they'd last long. I have no point, as several others. I can remember granddad sticking with 30w HD oil because multi visc. oils were too thin. He never got 200k in his trucks or over 14 mpg either. The whole purpose of multi-grade oils are to work in summer and winter. If it works for you let it keep working. If you ain't satisfied keep on looking.
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