2010 f350 rust
#1
2010 f350 rust
Premature rust anyone ?
I recently drove my rust free 99 crew cab v10 to North Carolina. It was a great truck till it blew a spark plug !!! I pulled in yo the local ford dealer where I found a beautiful 2010 f350 lariat fx4 power stoke. I've been wanting one of these for awhile now so I bought it. 56000 miles. I'm a very meticulous person so after getting home I started detailing only to find surface rust starting every where there Is no paint underneath. I plan to sandblast and undercoat. Anyone else experiencing this ?
I recently drove my rust free 99 crew cab v10 to North Carolina. It was a great truck till it blew a spark plug !!! I pulled in yo the local ford dealer where I found a beautiful 2010 f350 lariat fx4 power stoke. I've been wanting one of these for awhile now so I bought it. 56000 miles. I'm a very meticulous person so after getting home I started detailing only to find surface rust starting every where there Is no paint underneath. I plan to sandblast and undercoat. Anyone else experiencing this ?
#2
#5
ditto on the flood concern.
there are products to power wash the salt out of the metal. sand blasting would not clean up the salt embeded in the metal pors and may result in sand and such being pushed into all you seals.
rather than going crazy on a mechanical remidiation program....you should look into checmical approaches....rust converters work very well and are easy to apply.
Once a year, after a good under carriage power wash, I spray rust converter thru out the under carriage, lower radiator area, oil and trans pan area, and as mush of the mechanical linkages that I can get to.
I use a 5 gallon pump up srayer.
I buy the rust converter on line for about 75 bucks a gallon. I buy a 4 once container of tannic acid (active ingredient in rust converter).
I mix 1 qt of water with the gallon of rust converter, add an ounce of tannic acid. shake it up in the spray container...pump it up, and spray away. thick spray works better than fine mist....I usally get a few glogs in the nozzle which can be cleaned pretty quick by unscrwing the nozzle and tapping it on a hard surface.
the spray event is fast moving and will take less than 5 minues. If you are too slow you will run out of converter and wast a lot of fluid.
come back in an hour and all the rust is now a black coating that freezes further rust and has a polymer coating to maintan the protection.
On the east coats, those il and tranny fluid approaches dont seem to work. I have new motor cycle parts in a pail of motor oil and even submerged in the oil they rust.
there are products to power wash the salt out of the metal. sand blasting would not clean up the salt embeded in the metal pors and may result in sand and such being pushed into all you seals.
rather than going crazy on a mechanical remidiation program....you should look into checmical approaches....rust converters work very well and are easy to apply.
Once a year, after a good under carriage power wash, I spray rust converter thru out the under carriage, lower radiator area, oil and trans pan area, and as mush of the mechanical linkages that I can get to.
I use a 5 gallon pump up srayer.
I buy the rust converter on line for about 75 bucks a gallon. I buy a 4 once container of tannic acid (active ingredient in rust converter).
I mix 1 qt of water with the gallon of rust converter, add an ounce of tannic acid. shake it up in the spray container...pump it up, and spray away. thick spray works better than fine mist....I usally get a few glogs in the nozzle which can be cleaned pretty quick by unscrwing the nozzle and tapping it on a hard surface.
the spray event is fast moving and will take less than 5 minues. If you are too slow you will run out of converter and wast a lot of fluid.
come back in an hour and all the rust is now a black coating that freezes further rust and has a polymer coating to maintan the protection.
On the east coats, those il and tranny fluid approaches dont seem to work. I have new motor cycle parts in a pail of motor oil and even submerged in the oil they rust.
#6
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#8
Sorry I haven't posted I've been busy, I did however sand blast the spots under the cab
Which were mainly the edges of the spot welded pieces and painted with rust converter, so far so good ! It's just surface rust. I'm going to pull off the bed and blast it apply Por 15 them undercoat. While under there I blasted and painted the driveshafts and rear end. Front is next apparently Ford doesn't see the need to paint these parts anymore !!! What the heck
Which were mainly the edges of the spot welded pieces and painted with rust converter, so far so good ! It's just surface rust. I'm going to pull off the bed and blast it apply Por 15 them undercoat. While under there I blasted and painted the driveshafts and rear end. Front is next apparently Ford doesn't see the need to paint these parts anymore !!! What the heck
#9
If you are getting a lot of rust and it's an east coast truck, you may have just found out what driving a truck through ocean water will do. I had an old beater that I took to the OBX and ran through very little water that was up on the beach. I sprayed under it to clean it but within about four years, you could almost see through the floor.
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04-22-2006 03:35 PM