Hello all, I thought I'd document my rebuild and upgrades on my AOD. It's being repaired to go in an 88 Bronco with 302 with GT40P heads and headman headers. I had to rebuild it because I used an E4OD/C6 flexplate with the 302 I swapped in and it pushed too far and chewed up the pump flooding the trans with aluminum.
Napa OEM overhaul kit-$176, came with RAYBESTOS clutches and steels, not performance stuff but I think it speaks for the quality of the kit.
Baumann Valvebody Recal Kit-$60
Seal installer Kit-$99 on ebay ordered after slightly nicking a lip seal
Discontinued lip seal $20 order from KC
Torque converter flush-?? I'm not sure where to get this done, any suggestions are appreciated.
I just spent two nights cleaning the valvebody and installing the valvebody kit, there was ALOT of aluminum dust in there. Everywhere else was fairly clean except the forward clutch piston, kind of cool how it was distributed. I'll be sure to post results on the valvebody kit as I haven't seen anyone reviewing Baumann's kit.
Got the valve body reassembled, it was a bear, next time I will be taking pictures of each valve bore's contents.
I used my piston installer kit on the forward drum and it is a life saver! piston went in slicker than snot with the tools, kit was $99 from a company on ebay which is about 60 bucks cheaper than everywhere else.
From my experience do not attempt an AOD rebuild without the piston install kit, its not worth the hassle and worry of nicking seals. Plus individual seals are almost impossible to come by.
Got the outer reverse piston seal protector opened up with sand paper and polished it with emery cloth. Installed the clutches and other pieces in the reverse drum and it was the only one to be within spec once installed. I have put together the forward and direct drums and am waiting for correctly sized snap rings, this might be a hassle as ford has discontinued snap rings for at least the direct drum.
I read a build up on a different site on a 4R70W where to get another clutch in the forward drum he omitted the wave plate, and replaced the pressure plate with the accompanying steel. Since the wave plate simply acts to cushion the shift and I was way out of spec for some reason I took the wave plate out and had an almost perfect .067 inches of clearance.
I have started to put it all back together I have the servos in and am almost ready to install the intermediate clutches.
My final problem is the torque converter, do you guys think I'm safe with a flush or do I need to buy a new converter?
I'm up to the intermediate clutch in the rebuild, however I'm not technically within specs. The ATSG manual says clutch depth should be 1.634-1.636.
I'm at about 1.660 and I measured all of my steels and they are all .062-.065, a hair smaller than the smallest selective steel plates that can be ordered.
A guy rebuilt his 4R70W and said Ford lists clearance at 1.634-1.677
Does anyone have a repair manual by ford or should I check with the local dealership to check this info?
Alright I've heard a few people say as long as the clutch pack is deeper than spec it's alright as it won't interfere with the piston when not engaged so I'll install the pump and if I don't feel drag I'll roll with it.
Daily driving, towing get the lower one. Mud runs and off-road I'd get the higher one.
If you don't tow, and can cruise in od where you live, I'd go with the higher stall. Will liven up the motor and get it in its power range for having fun. You'll need a good trans cooler. Stacked plate design. Not a single pass loopy loop crappy thing.
The higher the stall the more heat it'll generate and the worse the jump will be at the shift from 2nd to 3rd when the TC is bypassed. Unless you're building the trans for no TC bypass(lockup) in any gear then I'd suggest you get as close as possible to a stock stall speed.
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