AOD rebuild
#61
I ran a stock aod behind a 400hp engine, and other than a few mistakes I made, it held up awesome. I had some with shift kits and all it did was raise the od engagement.
They didn't have aftermarket valve bodies when I run them, but the tci one that was posted earlier seems to be a fail proof insurance valvebody, but still requires proper adjustment of the tv cable for proper shifting.
I'm not sure what you mean by "full pressure/full throttle" because even stock, properly adjusted, is full pressure at full throttle pretty much.
They didn't have aftermarket valve bodies when I run them, but the tci one that was posted earlier seems to be a fail proof insurance valvebody, but still requires proper adjustment of the tv cable for proper shifting.
I'm not sure what you mean by "full pressure/full throttle" because even stock, properly adjusted, is full pressure at full throttle pretty much.
#63
Not saying that your application is incorrect for you, but typically that doesn't work for me in the past because at part throttle it's not enough pressure, and can cause issues.
I set cruising pressure and then adjust it to how I want it to shift. Then it's usually full pressure at about 3/4 throttle because factory it's set at a positive pressure at idle from the factory. I believe it's min 40 psi at test port at idle, but I can't remember.
I set cruising pressure and then adjust it to how I want it to shift. Then it's usually full pressure at about 3/4 throttle because factory it's set at a positive pressure at idle from the factory. I believe it's min 40 psi at test port at idle, but I can't remember.
#64
Never fails, fired up the 302 idled for a few seconds then died. My gut says the high pressure pump is weak because if I cycle the key the truck will sputter some more but whats another hundred bucks? Still feeling pretty good I have this thing together again and if the trans works I'll probably cry
#66
I use the lokar kickdown, and fabricate a spring on the end of the cable so when travel runs out in the arm, the spring allows the throttle to continue moving.
My 67 mustang had a modified hard linkage that took lots of time to figure out. I had made an adjustable cam action piece to go in the big hole of the carb, and I probably cut and welded the trans arm 10x trying to get the right geometry so that it didn't bottom out and stop me from getting full throttle.
Lots of ways to do it. As long as the results are good, there isn't a wrong way.
Factory setup like plumcrazy is doing, is very easy to get right. Then I usually tweak it from there.
My 67 mustang had a modified hard linkage that took lots of time to figure out. I had made an adjustable cam action piece to go in the big hole of the carb, and I probably cut and welded the trans arm 10x trying to get the right geometry so that it didn't bottom out and stop me from getting full throttle.
Lots of ways to do it. As long as the results are good, there isn't a wrong way.
Factory setup like plumcrazy is doing, is very easy to get right. Then I usually tweak it from there.
#68
Valvebody will help. More pressure is better in my opinion. It will always shift nice part throttle. Only time one of mine didn't was when I had so much initial pressure it barely would go into overdrive.
You probably are putting out similar hp or more than I was (better heads than me) so I really suggest you keep upgrading and making sure you're adjusted sufficiently. And always manually shift out of overdrive before hammering the throttle down.
You probably are putting out similar hp or more than I was (better heads than me) so I really suggest you keep upgrading and making sure you're adjusted sufficiently. And always manually shift out of overdrive before hammering the throttle down.
#70
#71
#72