Pre-Pump Fuel Filter Question
#1
Pre-Pump Fuel Filter Question
All,
Moving this over from the "bio-fuel" sections. Anyhow, new here, and was hoping for a bit of assistance as it relates to after market fuel filters. I recently had the 'Driven Diesel Performance' hutch kit installed (here Driven Diesel Fuel Tank / Pre-Pump Kit), and the BF1212 filter appears to have impacted my fuel pressure due to the low micron rating.
It's my understanding it has sufficient flow rating, but the truck just doesn't have the same power it did before this mod. Unfortunately, I do not have a fuel pressure gauge, so I'm blaming the filter without any real proof it's the culprit.
Maybe I'm guessing wrong, and could circumvent the filter as a test, but thought trying something like BF7759 (aka "strainer" type) would be an easier task. After a some research, I can't use the BF7759, as it's a 1-12 and my filter head is a 1-14.
Note, still have my OEM fuel bowl, with a newly installed Motorcraft filter.
With all that said, is a BF1212 style the best for this set-up, and if not, what fuel strainer/filter is recommend pre-pump (OEM rail) to ensure optimal fuel pressure along with extending the life of my OEM fuel pump? I'd rather not install a Carter "assistance" pump to pull from the tank to the filter, as I first want to determine if simply adjusting the filter is the first step here, and it's just another thing to worry about.
Moving this over from the "bio-fuel" sections. Anyhow, new here, and was hoping for a bit of assistance as it relates to after market fuel filters. I recently had the 'Driven Diesel Performance' hutch kit installed (here Driven Diesel Fuel Tank / Pre-Pump Kit), and the BF1212 filter appears to have impacted my fuel pressure due to the low micron rating.
It's my understanding it has sufficient flow rating, but the truck just doesn't have the same power it did before this mod. Unfortunately, I do not have a fuel pressure gauge, so I'm blaming the filter without any real proof it's the culprit.
Maybe I'm guessing wrong, and could circumvent the filter as a test, but thought trying something like BF7759 (aka "strainer" type) would be an easier task. After a some research, I can't use the BF7759, as it's a 1-12 and my filter head is a 1-14.
Note, still have my OEM fuel bowl, with a newly installed Motorcraft filter.
With all that said, is a BF1212 style the best for this set-up, and if not, what fuel strainer/filter is recommend pre-pump (OEM rail) to ensure optimal fuel pressure along with extending the life of my OEM fuel pump? I'd rather not install a Carter "assistance" pump to pull from the tank to the filter, as I first want to determine if simply adjusting the filter is the first step here, and it's just another thing to worry about.
#2
ya, that i think is, way to low of a micron rating being pre-pump and also having the stock fuel filter. I'd install this
Wix 33239 & Napa 3239 Fuel Filter: FleetFilter Secure Online Store
here's a list of 1-14 threaded spin ons
http://www.fleetfilter.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?
Wix 33239 & Napa 3239 Fuel Filter: FleetFilter Secure Online Store
here's a list of 1-14 threaded spin ons
http://www.fleetfilter.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?
#4
#5
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: White Mnt's,New Hampshire
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i never had a problem with the 1212,,did you give time for the air to work out of it?? are you sure you have a nice tight seal from the tank all the way to the heads?? you really need to put a psi gauge on there..
here is the specs for the 1212
Flow Rates:
210 GPH @ 1 PSID
300+ GPH @ 3 PSID
Other Specs:
Capacity in Grams: 32.4
Filtration: 4 micron @ 86% / 20 micron @ 99%
Burst Pressure: 150psi
Collapse Pressure: 100psid
you can also run the baldwin 1252..it is whats recomended for the high flow pumps like the fuelab..here is the specs for the 1252
Flow Rates:
Greater than 210 GPH @ 1 PSID
Greater than 300+ GPH @ 3 PSID
Other Specs:
Capacity in Grams: 59
Filtration: 9 micron @ 86% / 40 micron @ 99%
Burst Pressure: 150psi
Collapse Pressure: 100psid
here is the specs for the 1212
Flow Rates:
210 GPH @ 1 PSID
300+ GPH @ 3 PSID
Other Specs:
Capacity in Grams: 32.4
Filtration: 4 micron @ 86% / 20 micron @ 99%
Burst Pressure: 150psi
Collapse Pressure: 100psid
you can also run the baldwin 1252..it is whats recomended for the high flow pumps like the fuelab..here is the specs for the 1252
Flow Rates:
Greater than 210 GPH @ 1 PSID
Greater than 300+ GPH @ 3 PSID
Other Specs:
Capacity in Grams: 59
Filtration: 9 micron @ 86% / 40 micron @ 99%
Burst Pressure: 150psi
Collapse Pressure: 100psid
#7
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#8
Pre-pump should be much more of a screen than a filter. A simple inline filter would be sufficient.
If you are using alternative fuels, it should be filtered for particulate matter before putting it in your tank to remove the big stuff. The prepump filter is just to protect the pump.
If you are using alternative fuels, it should be filtered for particulate matter before putting it in your tank to remove the big stuff. The prepump filter is just to protect the pump.
I would think anything less in size than the screen size in the pump is fine as long as you still have your factory filter.
#9
I really appreciate all the replies, and thoughts so far!
I agree that I need a fuel pressure gauge, but not something I can do immediately. My local pats store has the Napa 3239, so I'm going to try it later today or tomorrow.
Anyhow, I left out part of the story - when I had the hutch installed with the BF1212, I didn't make it a mile down the road until my fuel pump went out. It's my understanding the fuel bump was weak from the in-tank OEM pick-up and screens being clogged, and the primary reason I did the mod. Anyhow, after cleaning the OEM screens a few months ago, the truck ran fantastic, but I wanted the screen outside of the tank, so I could change without dropping it. To clarify, I ran the truck for weeks after cleaning the in-tank filters, and then later had the hutch installed.
Why was my filters clogged? I think for many reasons, but primarily due to my fuel neck rusting out, which was the first thing I replaced.
Again, I'm guessing the low micro filter was the last blow & just enough to end the life of the pump
Before the mod, with a "weak pump", I still had some impressive "get-up and go", and note, I didn't actually do the install myself, but sure the shop got all the air out, as it's been on for a few weeks now.
Lastly, the BF1212 seems like a great filter, but when I get over 2000 RPMs (or what I'd call putting it on a "load" test), it just doesn't have the power it did before the mod.
Maybe I don't need a filter, as my tank is clean as a whistle and my fuel neck is brand new?!?
I agree that I need a fuel pressure gauge, but not something I can do immediately. My local pats store has the Napa 3239, so I'm going to try it later today or tomorrow.
Anyhow, I left out part of the story - when I had the hutch installed with the BF1212, I didn't make it a mile down the road until my fuel pump went out. It's my understanding the fuel bump was weak from the in-tank OEM pick-up and screens being clogged, and the primary reason I did the mod. Anyhow, after cleaning the OEM screens a few months ago, the truck ran fantastic, but I wanted the screen outside of the tank, so I could change without dropping it. To clarify, I ran the truck for weeks after cleaning the in-tank filters, and then later had the hutch installed.
Why was my filters clogged? I think for many reasons, but primarily due to my fuel neck rusting out, which was the first thing I replaced.
Again, I'm guessing the low micro filter was the last blow & just enough to end the life of the pump
Before the mod, with a "weak pump", I still had some impressive "get-up and go", and note, I didn't actually do the install myself, but sure the shop got all the air out, as it's been on for a few weeks now.
Lastly, the BF1212 seems like a great filter, but when I get over 2000 RPMs (or what I'd call putting it on a "load" test), it just doesn't have the power it did before the mod.
Maybe I don't need a filter, as my tank is clean as a whistle and my fuel neck is brand new?!?
#10
#11
FWIW, I've been running a Dahl 2 micron pre-pump filter on my OBS for probably 6 years now with ZERO issues. Having a proper filter on the suction side of the pump doesn't hurt anything....
I'm fixing to install the same kit from Strictly Diesel, but I'm also installing the post-pump filter kit, and regulated return w/ bowl delete. I already have the stuff, just need to install.
I'm fixing to install the same kit from Strictly Diesel, but I'm also installing the post-pump filter kit, and regulated return w/ bowl delete. I already have the stuff, just need to install.
#13
I have run both an OEM SD rail mounted pump and a walbro pump on this setup. It worked fine. Eventually I started to see a pressure drop with the stock SD pump when I'd go WOT, hints the switch to a walbro pump. The SD pump started having trouble holding pressure after I switched to bigger injector nozzles. I believe that if I were to change the design of the regulated return on that truck I wouldn't have had the pressure drop with that pump. We'll see soon enough. Same size injectors are getting thrown at my SD with a better RR design and the stock SD pump.
#14
Well, got the Napa 3239 on there, and can't report it officially made a difference - I didn't really get to test, as this ("Shifter Shortage") https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tch-short.html happened to me during (after fueling, I went to put the truck in Drive, and heard a pop) - SOB!!!! Anyhow, just proof I need to get to reading more content here on the forum to determine what other preventive maintenance if needed - getting towed sucks!