I recently purchased a 2008 F-250 with a 6.4. This truck is turning into a problem child. I bought hoping to resolve some of my headaches, but it is turning into a migraine. Long story short: frozen guide pins on caliper brackets, caliper pistons chipped and binding, rotors ground, trlr wiring jacked,dpf clogged, computer programming issue. I have corrected these issues, but one aafter another keep popping up. My biggest concern at this point is smoke and oil. I had minimal white smoke on idle with dpf installed. I had computer reprogrammed and truck ran fine but still a little smoke. I installed dpf delete kit from gear box Z and trk was still great. Smoke was gone for several minutes. Took for test drive and while on the highway I gave some throttle(3/4 ) and a huge puff of smoke and all power was lost. After coasting for few second it regained responsiveness, but was now a mosquito repellent. I turned around to head back and there was so much smoke I could have been Bond 007. Every time I would slow and come to idle the smoke comes back. I crawled under and see oil in exhaust. I don't have oil in coolant, no coolant in water and no fuel in oil. I am assuming that it is Turbo or a run away diesel(blown motor). I am curious as to where to start/easiest way to determine actual issue at home. I am good with gas, but diesels are somewhat new to me. Still learning. Although I was not planning on learning this much so quickly. Thanks for any help or guidance.

 

Check how much oil is in the crankcase, if overfull drain out what you need to get to just under full and test. If overfull try to capture oil to see how much overfull it was. If it isn't overfilled my next guess would be the Turbo seal.

 

This is hard to tell for sure.

I take it when you scan for codes there are none?

I think the gearbox Z can do the scan.

What are you using to monitor your engine while tuned?

This could be injectors/turbo related are my thoughts.

 

Wonder if the GearBoxZ didn't turn off the regen at first. I've heard a couple of guys had to install theirs twice. Wonder if it went into regen and he is seeing fuel mixed with soot making it look like oil??

 

I haven't pulled codes. I also have a diagnostic scanner that will read while it runs. I had to get away from it for a bit. My optimism went out the window. I have put more into truck than payments made on the thing. Really wanted some input to know what to expect. Im pretty sure its not the regen cause the smoke is blueish white. I had some reisdue come through the joints in exhaust and it is definitely oil. I wasn't sure how oil would make it to exhaust through turbo/ does it not go into the intake from turbo or is there that much passing?

 

Definitely oil or fuel? The regen is overfueling? Constant regen? even tho it is supposed to be deactivated?
Joe

 

No message on display for cleaning exhaust system, so I doubt it. The residue feels just like oil, and the DPF is no longer in it. I inserted the race pipe. Everything seems to be pointing to one of the Turbo's. I am assuming that both should be replace/rebuilt at the same time to avoid future issues. I have read several threads and seems that cab has to be removed, but I thought there were couple that did it without. I am probably gonna start on this over the weekend, but if the cab need to be pulled, well, Im up a creek.

 

Just ran codes and only thing populated is p0128. I can run live diagnostics, but concerned it will make the situation worse. Still unsure if turbo seal blew or if egr is stuck. I have loaded the program for egr delete, but haven't sealed off. I was told that as long as egr was working, did not need immediate attn. Could this be the problem?

 

this is the code you pulled:
P0128 X

Coolant Thermostat (Coolant

Temp Below Thermostat

Regulating Temperature)

This error occurs when the ECT sensor signal indicates a

coolant temperature lower than the operating temperature

of the thermostat for an extended period of time.

 

I would clear that code and check again.

 

I would have to run the truck and not sure I should do that. The low coolant temperature shouldn't cause any of the issues I am having. That one actually comes and goes. I just haven't changed sensor due to other larger issues. I have the sensor/fuel filters/ and glow plugs all here, but want to resolve issue before plugging them in. don't want to put new filters and glow plugs if oil is getting to cylinders or in the gas for some reason.

 

You absolutely CAN pull the turbos cab on. It is tight and you have to get your body in funky positions. I can pull mine in about 2 hours. You will have to raise the cab a little. What I did was cut a 2x4 into 4 inch squares. Remove the 8 bolts that hold the cab to the frame. (Mine is a crew cab) then working on one side, raise the body with a floor jack enough to insert the blocks where you removed the bolts, then repeat on the other side. This allows enough room to reach over the up pipes and in front of the firewall to access the bolts. Also, make sure that you have a really good socket when you remove the bolts that hold the up pipe to the back of the turbo and make sure you keep your socket straight on the bolts. If you round of these bolts you are more that likely going to have to remove the cab. Good luck.

 

You're working harder then needed. No need to pull all 8 cab bolts to remove the turbo. Infact it can be done with the cab never being moved if needed. Just have to get the down pipe out of the way.
Also the bolts for it are magnesium and non magnetic.

 

Really? I could not get to the up pipe bolts without raising it. Maybe you are more fflexible than I am. lol. Anyway, I pulled mine tonight. just got to find someone that csn replace the seal in mine.

 

1/2 moon gear wrench with a socket adapter. Its in the book