Hi all,

I was puting my oil pan back on last night and saw the timing chain up in there. For the heck of it, I pushed on the chain between the gears to check for play (like checking a fan belt). There's a lot! It feel really loose.

Is it supposed to be like that? Should it have any play or should it be tight?

Thanks in advance!

Kevin K.

 

I don't have my shop manuals with me at work, but I think there should only be about 1/4" slack in there. I once got a '76 Cougar w/460 for free because "it won't start". I cranked on it to confirm there was fuel and spark, and sure enough it wouldn't stay running. The chain was so loose that I could see the irregularities with the timing light!

I hauled it off and put its engine in my first '76 van for more than 5 years! (With suitable mods of course... )

 

Regarding 385 timing sets FYI. . .

When R&Ring timing sets on 385 engine, get/ use timing set for 68-72 engine. I prefer Cloyes Accu Roll sets my self, however it's no matter if you use roller, or conventional timing set to resolve the following, built in "problem".

In 73 FoMoCo built a retard condition into 385's to deal with EGR issues in traffic & Granny usage. It is about a degree & 1/2 late to crank when 73 & up timing sets are correctly installed w/ marks aligned "dead on". If you drive to church often and cruise heavy traffic a lot, you may need this. BUT. . . If you drive normally you don't want it.

Use earlier timing set & engine will be 0* @ TDC,as it is should be to run right, [US Govt not withstanding of course]. I did D6VE w/ flat top pistons 4 guy as I just explained. I got him to use Blue Stripe module & breakerless ign system also. With the changes & dual, 2 1/4" exhaust, all the way back, good performance @ 12- 14 mpg, became great performance @ 17+mpg [once he learned to keep his foot out of it instead of constantly hammering it cause it was neat]

Thought you'd want to look into this bit of information on 385s. FBp

 

I believe '72 was the first year for reduced compression/retarded timing on the 385. And the only year an open chamber head was used.

 

That's the info I have as well. 71 and earlier were straight up, after that I thought it was 4 deg. retarded.

Then again, sometimes I'm about 4 deg. retarded so I may be wrong.

Thanks all!

K.

 

It started in 73 with the D3VE engines, it maybe 4 deg at the crank because the crank is running 2:1 to the cam, right?

All I know is if you P&G the cylinders using good degree wheel zero on the cam & zero on the crank don't happen at TDC like it does with a 72 & earlier 385s.

Also I believe compression ratios were dropping from the DOVEs onward. But Doves were 67=68=69 & 70 although I've run across a few D1VEs with 9.75:1. All the D2VEs have been 9.5:1 with OEM heads & pistons. But "change" was a result of 1972 fuel crisis & US EPA mandates which were effective in 1973.

Point is get a timing set for a 68 -70 & run better than if you use one for a 73 & up. Didn't know how common this knowledge was.
Glad to see y'all are ahead of the curve on it tho!

 

Quote:
But Doves were 67=68=69 & 70

It is my understanding that it went C8VE C9VE <> Then D0VE

The D0VE gets the 0 from being cast for the 1970 engine.

 

Mil1ion, you're correct. C8 (1968), C9 (1969) then DO were used in '70&71 with 78cc combustion chambers. Rail rockers were used from '68-71 and switched to pedestal mounted (excepting the PI) in '72. The standard production '72 was an 8.5:1 c/r cam timing retarded engine with D2 open chamber heads of 89cc. In '73 the compression was dropped again to 8.0:1 with 96cc+ combustion chambers. '71 was the last year for high compression, straight-up cam timing 385s.

 

I replaced the chain and gears in my 429 with a Wolverine true roller. After 3 years of use it is still as tight as the day I installed it. I had to remove it a while back and I had to work the chain and gears together about 1/32" at a time until it cleared the end of the cam. At the very least I install double roller sets when I replace a timing set now.

 

Mil1ion & georgedavila

You guys are right & I wrote that wrong. While I was typing it I was thinking the 68 - 70 all had the same style heads & pistons etc. In that way they all resemble the DOVE.

And yes I know D= the decade [70's] + 0 = the year in the deacde zero or 1970 itself. . . .it's just hurried up sloppyness on my part & I apologize & stand corected, thanx!

Also it's a treat to have folks who know what they are talking about get on my case for a change! I'm ragged by the "Orange Replacement Engine" crowd usually. Y'all know how that can go, right?

THANX again for pointing out my error, and FWIW at least I thought I knew what I meant.