Hi all!

So I'm replacing the intake manifold gasket on the 1986 F250 351W 4 barrel (first time for me!).... I have the 8600 # truck so I have the intake manifold gasket with the "pan".. Manifold is stock.

I purchased the replacement feltpro gasket with the pan and gasket as one piece but the gasket that goes over the manifold appear to be 2 layers together. Like a double layer of gasket for each side... Is this right? Confused me because it doesn't appear the same as what I removed.

From reading the forums I know to ditch the end gaskets and use black RTV. RTV around the coolant passages. I have made guide bolts to get everything square as possible on install..

Should I use thread sealer/or RTV on the intake manifold bolts on the install?

Thanks!!

 

I've not seen a 351W intake gasket set with a pan. The M's do, but not the W's that I've seen.

I use blue RTV around the coolant passages as well as to replace the rubber seals on the webs at the front and back. And thread sealant on the bolt threads.

 

Perhaps the wrong one was on the engine previously... I can tell it was replaced - albeit along time ago..

I'll do some more digging...

 

I sit corrected. The first pic from the master parts catalog shows the part you are talking about, and the second is a listing of what engines the 9C484 is used on, including your truck. Sorry.

 

Thanks for the documentation!!! that explains why I received the valley pan with the gasket attached acting as two layers...Hopefully this with fix my oil leak appearing to the left/right of the distributor..

Do you recommend just installing manifold bolts dry or should I use any thread sealer??

 

I use RTV to replace 9A424 & 425 - lots of RTV. And I set things down gently so as to not squeeze all of the RTV out until it starts setting up. Maybe snug up by hand and then torque it up the next day. And make sure everything the RTV touches is absolutely CLEAN - no finger prints or oil. Use brake cleaner or somesuch. Same thing for around the coolant passages.

And I use thread sealer or anti-seize on the manifold bolts. They are going into blind holes so there isn't an issue with leaks. I just like to ensure I can get them out. The real problem is with aluminum intakes - but I assume yours is cast iron.

 

Yeah,,, it's the cast iron titantic anchor..

Thanks for the input!!

 

No, sorry, that's only a sailboat anchor. Try a cast iron intake for an FE, like a 390, or one for a 460. Yours is heavy, but those are HEAVY!

In any event, make sure you use guide pins like you said you are going to do. And, take pains to lower it on the engine evenly from side-to-side. I've had problems with them going on at an angle and never straightening up like you would think they'd do.

 

This guy hasn't lived until he removes a cast iron FE intake. From a full size car or truck, while bent over. Without dropping it on the radiator/core support. I've done it!

 

If the heads have been milled to straighten them on the block surface, then they might have double gaskets on the intake to make up for that loss. Otherwise the intake and head angles will change and not seal with only one gasket. Felpro gaskets will usually take care of this problem without having to double up the intake gasket. JMHO
Oldman570

 

Interesting project, I'm watching to see how this is going. My 85 Bronco has the same intake I suppose. And I'v'e been thinking of removing it..I must admit that aluminum Weiand is tempting to put back on...

I have a small oil dribble in the front as well..

good luck.

 

As have I - on a 72 F250 390 that was tall enough that I had to sit on the fender to reach the manifold. Removed the original 2bbl anchor and installed a Ford CI 4bbl intake I got at a salvage so I could add the QJet. Huge improvement.

Don't assume you will have the same turkey pan. The 85 351HO I parted out didn't have one beneath the cast iron intake. Anyway, I would put the Weiand on.

 

Prolly should ...point taken

 

I pulled one off our 64 Galaxie with a 352 4bbl that's no longer in there.

 

I did mine recently, & used an engine lifter - not because of the weight, but just to have good control as it goes back on.