do u joints bind & break
#1
do u joints bind & break
as the question says is it possible for a u joint to bind and break when you put it in 4 wd drive? i was about to drive through some mud yesterday, so i stopped put the trans in neutral and then put the transfer case in 4wd high. i then proceeded to roll ahead, not very fast but not creeping slow either, about 5 mph, and then i heard a BANG and then a loud clunk and lurch when every so often, crap, so i jumped out and looked, the drivers side u joint is broken off and it took out a piece of the steering knuckle , so is it possible the u joint bound up and broke exploding into the front knuckle and taking that out as well? i wish i could say something more manly like i was doing 4wd burnouts and they exploded lol but unfortunately i cant say that
#2
#3
lol i will attempt to get a picture, its kind of hard to see, even when i crawled up there. it worked just fine a few weeks before when it was used while pushing snow
#6
here is the pic, its sideways by the way
edit: i dont think that worked, here is a few more tries
http://s1361.photobucket.com/user/bl...tml?sort=3&o=0
http://s1361.photobucket.com/user/bl...?sort=3&page=1
someone say something if these dont work, i think photobucket is having issues at the moment
edit: i dont think that worked, here is a few more tries
http://s1361.photobucket.com/user/bl...tml?sort=3&o=0
http://s1361.photobucket.com/user/bl...?sort=3&page=1
someone say something if these dont work, i think photobucket is having issues at the moment
#7
Join Date: Mar 2005
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#8
yes i agree, after looking at it some more (didnt really get a good look as it was muddy and darkish) this afternoon, i noticed the steering knuckle was fine and it was the u joint and axle, one question do i need the whole axle or just the yoke, on national parts depot i seen the inner and outer yoke, which is what looks broken. the crappy part is i have to drive it (2wd with hub unlocked) but when i turn the inner and outer yokes bind and then i cant turn the truck because i am waiting on parts for the door latch for the 92.
#9
Join Date: Mar 2005
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#10
Yea looks like ya just need the outer stub shaft and a ujoint, inner axle shaft is probaly fine.
You can gain a little steering clearance if you have a torch easy enough, cut what's left of the ears off the outer stub shaft a minute. Doing so will help prevent further damage due to having to drive it until can fix it right. Run a hose over it while you cut it where enters the spindle, prevent it from getting too hot while doing so.
You can gain a little steering clearance if you have a torch easy enough, cut what's left of the ears off the outer stub shaft a minute. Doing so will help prevent further damage due to having to drive it until can fix it right. Run a hose over it while you cut it where enters the spindle, prevent it from getting too hot while doing so.
#11
#12
You shouldn't have any trouble buying the outer stub shaft at any bone yard.
Half ton shown in digram D44, if D50 same applies.
And if D50 and have troubles sourcing that stub shaft local, let me know I got couple of them you'd be welcome to one if need be.
#13
#14
I'll third what has been said. You just need a u-joint and the outer stub shaft. Junk yard, ebay, wherever for the stub shaft.
I do wonder how that bound up so bad. I've had those u-joints get stiff as all the grease is gone & they bind, but they just loose after that as all the pins rot to dust. Heard of them breaking with wheel hop, but that doesn't sound like the case here.
I do wonder how that bound up so bad. I've had those u-joints get stiff as all the grease is gone & they bind, but they just loose after that as all the pins rot to dust. Heard of them breaking with wheel hop, but that doesn't sound like the case here.
#15