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i'm happy with my rear custom alum fuel tank....i even made it so it uses the factory ford sending unit, but that means i kept my 3/8" fuel lines. I don't have a sump, but lots of baffles and i haven't had any problems with sucking air yet.
There's pics in my build thread somewhere..
I saw your tank. Ready to make one for me?
Very well done.
Picked up some goodies on my way home from work the other morning. I stopped my Dynomite Diesel and picked up my injectors. Also got some .024 delivery valves, 3k governor springs and an adjustable fuel plate. Time to play around with the pump.
Wow! I love this site. Starting on my clutch setup today, been looking at a lot of great ideas. This is definately one of them. Good job! I made a tank for my truck years ago, no pics, wasn't a computer nut then. About 40 gal. Bottom pan slopes to the front with a sump and baffles. May hang down more than some would like but I haven't had a problem.I used the factory pick up/sending unit setup so limited to 3/8" line. I have to build a bed sometime in the future so may change that then. Just a thought, I had some breather issues early with my tank and had to remove/replace tank a couple times with fuel in it. Welded a plate with two holes drilled and tapped to the tank that allows me to bolt my floor jack to the tank. Life was much easier after that.
Wow! I love this site. Starting on my clutch setup today, been looking at a lot of great ideas. This is definately one of them. Good job! I made a tank for my truck years ago, no pics, wasn't a computer nut then. About 40 gal. Bottom pan slopes to the front with a sump and baffles. May hang down more than some would like but I haven't had a problem.I used the factory pick up/sending unit setup so limited to 3/8" line. I have to build a bed sometime in the future so may change that then. Just a thought, I had some breather issues early with my tank and had to remove/replace tank a couple times with fuel in it. Welded a plate with two holes drilled and tapped to the tank that allows me to bolt my floor jack to the tank. Life was much easier after that.
That's brilliant! I'll trade you my clutch pedal idea for your tank idea
Some continued work on the fuel system this week. I snapped off one of the plastic tangs from the timing pin (typical bonehead move). I'm not even sure how I did it, I never rotated it while pinned... oh well. I was able to find a new one from nearby H&H Diesel. While I was there I picked up a few gaskets and the woodruff keys I lost.
Oops!
AFC housing removed, and governor plug pulled. Ready to go to town.
AFC housing blown apart. Apparently I'm the only one with a bizarre nut holding the vacuum diaphragm on. I had to use some old snap ring pliers as a wrench... odd.
Stock fuel plate (top) compared to the DDP plate. I installed it dead center to begin with. It will live here until dyno time. I also put the star screw in a neutral position, again, until I can get it dialed in on the dyno. The plan is max fuel economy, good power, no smoke.
Ok, it's not a gas pedal, it's not a throttle pedal, some call it an accelerator pedal, but technically speaking so is the brake pedal... how about go-fast pedal? Kinda tired, gettin' punchy.
Anyway, this was giving me a headache. The factory Dodge cable is near impossible to find apparently. I know some of you found them, and I suspect you're wizards. I found a nice Lokar cable that says it's for a Holley carburetor, but works nicely as a universal cable. That being said, I was a bit frustrated that the stud on the Lokar unit was smaller than the hole where the stock one bolted. But then I realized that the ball on the stud was the same size, perfect. I used the Dodge stud coupled to the Lokar cable end.
Next I drilled a hole in the firewall about where I thought the cable should route.
Engine side
Passenger compartment side
Cable installed in the firewall
The bulkhead-style connector for the bracket was too small for the factory hole. Luckily, I found a washer that filled it perfectly. Then I sandwiched it with two other slightly larger washers on either side. Here it is in place. Now I just have to cut the braided stainless sheath.
Now, how to connect the cable to the pedal? I had toyed with the idea of going with some sort of aftermarket race car pedal or something, but nah. I've got perfectly good parts right here.
The stock gas pedal goes through the firewall and connects to the linkage in the engine compartment.
I simply cut off the end that goes into the engine bay, flipped it 180° and attached it to the inside stem. I'm just holding it in place here, I gotta make sure the geometry is right.
Tack welded in place
Fully welded. Notice how I had to notch the normally symmetrical end at the top of the photo. That's so that the cable would not get kinked in it's travel.
I also noticed a couple of cracks in the mounting flange. Not all the way through, but they'll only get worse if I don't fix it. Time for a little plastic welding.
I used the tin snips to cut a small section of "filler rod" from an old welding helmet lens.
I use an old soldering iron. The trick is to dig (melt) a trench along the repair, then fill it in with the filler material. It's a lot like TIG welding.
A little rough, but it'll do. My old soldering iron broke halfway through.
Sand the repair down a little, a little paint, and done.
Thanks Brandon. I didn't try ebay, I'm always a bit leery of where that stuff is made. But yeah, the Lokar cable will match my fuel lines and hydroboost lines pretty well
Ok, it's not a gas pedal, it's not a throttle pedal, some call it an accelerator pedal, but technically speaking so is the brake pedal... how about go-fast pedal? Kinda tired, gettin' punchy.
Anyway, this was giving me a headache. The factory Dodge cable is near impossible to find apparently. I know some of you found them, and I suspect you're wizards. I found a nice Lokar cable that says it's for a Holley carburetor, but works nicely as a universal cable. That being said, I was a bit frustrated that the stud on the Lokar unit was smaller than the hole where the stock one bolted. But then I realized that the ball on the stud was the same size, perfect. I used the Dodge stud coupled to the Lokar cable end.
Next I drilled a hole in the firewall about where I thought the cable should route.
Engine side
Passenger compartment side
Cable installed in the firewall
The bulkhead-style connector for the bracket was too small for the factory hole. Luckily, I found a washer that filled it perfectly. Then I sandwiched it with two other slightly larger washers on either side. Here it is in place. Now I just have to cut the braided stainless sheath.
Now, how to connect the cable to the pedal? I had toyed with the idea of going with some sort of aftermarket race car pedal or something, but nah. I've got perfectly good parts right here.
The stock gas pedal goes through the firewall and connects to the linkage in the engine compartment.
I simply cut off the end that goes into the engine bay, flipped it 180° and attached it to the inside stem. I'm just holding it in place here, I gotta make sure the geometry is right.
Tack welded in place
Fully welded. Notice how I had to notch the normally symmetrical end at the top of the photo. That's so that the cable would not get kinked in it's travel.
I also noticed a couple of cracks in the mounting flange. Not all the way through, but they'll only get worse if I don't fix it. Time for a little plastic welding.
I used the tin snips to cut a small section of "filler rod" from an old welding helmet lens.
I use an old soldering iron. The trick is to dig (melt) a trench along the repair, then fill it in with the filler material. It's a lot like TIG welding.
A little rough, but it'll do. My old soldering iron broke halfway through.
Sand the repair down a little, a little paint, and done.
Good work.
For future reference, pedals out of a bump are aluminum instead of plastic and will bolt right in.
I just went and looked. Nicely done! I like the way you turned the arm sideways to accommodate the stock cable. At least that's how it looked in the photo.
07-10-2015, 04:24 PM
