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Thanks for the tip. I'm looking at a few additional mods once I get another test fit in. I did leave room for the manifold, but may require a bit more for good measure. There is no interference with wiper linkage, as I left the mounting point alone and it is well away from the linkage. The lower mounting point for the wiper motor is the notch you see in the top right (driver side, but the right side of the photo) of the boxed section.
The firewall box does not come down into the floor, so that part doesn't worry me about carpet (if that's what you meant by floor covering). The part that worries me about that relates to your next point which is the exhaust. I believe I'm going to have to make a bumpout in the floor to have decent clearance for the downpipe. The only issue is that I won't be able to buy repo carpet, I'll probably have to make my own.
As far as covering goes the re pop vinyl floors go far up into the firewall area if that was something you were considering.
As far as the downpipe goes you'd have to modify it anyway. You may be able to tip it down further to full vertical to clear the cab more.
Another option for downpipe clearance is to get an exhaust manifold off an industrial 6bt application that has the turbo mounted at the front of the engine instead of being centered.
Or build a custom header for it, your fab skills look like you should be capable of that project.
You can buy bends from Napa or an exhaust shop to build your own. It appears to me, co425, that if you had a 90* bend right off the turbo you would have had plenty of clearance.
You can buy bends from Napa or an exhaust shop to build your own. It appears to me, co425, that if you had a 90* bend right off the turbo you would have had plenty of clearance.
A first gen down pipe would work good too.
Yes if it was a 90* it would clear the firewall better. You can always buy a 4" v band flange and start from scratch as well. If I didn't get such a good price on the down pipe I have, I would've done just that.
...an industrial 6bt application that has the turbo mounted at the front of the engine instead of being centered.
Some of them may.
Mine was an industrial engine and it's mounted in the center, but backwards from the light truck engines I see. The exhaust from the turbo exits towards the front of the engine on mine.
I'd post a picture, but Picasa doesn't play nice with this forum any more.
Mine was an industrial engine and it's mounted in the center, but backwards from the light truck engines I see. The exhaust from the turbo exits towards the front of the engine on mine.
I'd post a picture, but Picasa doesn't play nice with this forum any more.
Yes if it was a 90* it would clear the firewall better. You can always buy a 4" v band flange and start from scratch as well. If I didn't get such a good price on the down pipe I have, I would've done just that.
Does anyone know where to get miscellaneous bend sections of v band flanged pipe?
Does anyone know where to get miscellaneous bend sections of v band flanged pipe?
As close as you are to the firewall it would be easier for you to piece a down pipe together out of mandrel bends. You can get mandrel bends of 4" or 3" stainless on amazon pretty reasonable. If your turbo has a V band flange you'll have to search around a bit for the best price.
I was going to suggest those guys to. I get stuff from them from time to time & they have good pricing.
I, like Brandon got a cheap "used" (out of box but never installed) 4" downpipe & proceeded to hack it up. Mine was out of a 2nd Gen Dodge if I remember right. It was very close to fitting alongside the trans in the "normal" spot, but I'm weird & doing this with it:
Good luck with the build - you are doing a nice job.
Oh and you have a PM waiting. Sorry for the long delay in replying
Been awhile. While making all the firewall mods, I found some hidden cancer in the upper firewall flange where it mates to the dash. You can see in the photo where my screwdriver is poking through.
And here's where the problem came from. Dried and cracked seam sealer where the upper dash meets the firewall. This allowed moisture in and let it rust. There's really no good way to put a patch panel here, and I can't even tell how far back the rust goes unless I cut the whole firewall out.
Here is the firewall removed. I'm glad I cut it out. That is some significant rot.
To replace it I used three sections of sheet metal, bent at 90 degrees, and butt welded together.
Next, I cut notches out of it so that it will conform to the shape of the firewall.
08-21-2014, 02:31 AM
