I sure am glad I live in a state with no inspections. I would probably punch someone if they wouldn't let me drive my truck because of rusty cab corners. I understand emissions and road worthiness but we aren't talking about the engine being about to fall off, it's cosmetics.


Sorry.

 

Well 4x4slik I have to agree that its bull but it is what we need to do so for now we decided to just through some fiber glass on to get it to pass. I'll post pics as soon as I get them from the kids phone he taken them from day one till now so it should be a nice set to show off his talent.

 

Rusty cab corners made it fail, what BS. I would ask that guy how he is going to re-insp with his eyes swollen shut...lol

Hope they were not hoping to get you to get them to do the work and make the shop some $.

What if the truck was 73? and did not have any plastic inner fenderwell in the first place? At least I do not think they did? Who knows still a BS call on their part IMO.

"Hang Ford Tough"

 

I agree with you 77&79F250 but that's what he said to fix and its the rear cab corners, they are open into the cab from underneath and exhaust can get in through them, easy to fix so no big deal. The guy that's doing the inspection is his friends father and is only charging for the inspection. He being treated well and those are the requirements for a PA inspection.

 

Just found this and I'm in a similar position. I took the door off, and had to remove the hinges from the body and door to replace the bushings and treat some rust issues (as a result former hinge marks are gone). POR on the hinges, new seal sealer, looking much better. Now I'm not sure how to install the door and hinge. I don't want to remove the fender. I planned to install the hinge to the body, then attach the door, but then I'm not sure how to adjust the darn thing if I do it in that order.

Can you explain how to tightened the hinges to the body with the door attached? Should I bolt the hinges to the door, then tack them to the body, unbolt the door, snug then to the body, and reattach the door?

 

Someone linked this thread to one I had posted on the 48-56 forum so I am returning the favor. Here is a tool that holds the door securely and does not require a floor jack. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...oor-dolly.html
It's not cheap, $450, but I am sure that an enterprising truck enthusiast could build something modeled after this one for less $$$.

On an added note, I have used paint stirrers to help hold gaps in the door but I have also found that rubber squeegees work great too. I trim them to fit the spot I need to hold a gap.