How far to shim rockers
#1
#3
Is your cam broken in?
Do you have the stamped steel rockers or rollers?
Do you have and adjustable pushrod to check the length you might need and/or the geometry? Not so much with OEM rockers - there's some fudge room with them, but with rollers, it's a good idea. It's a good idea, anyway.
Have you checked the preload with the stock pushrods?
Trial and error with shims to get where you want to be... different length pushrods would work, too...if needed.
Do you have the stamped steel rockers or rollers?
Do you have and adjustable pushrod to check the length you might need and/or the geometry? Not so much with OEM rockers - there's some fudge room with them, but with rollers, it's a good idea. It's a good idea, anyway.
Have you checked the preload with the stock pushrods?
Trial and error with shims to get where you want to be... different length pushrods would work, too...if needed.
#5
. Actually, by shaving the heads, you prolly need to UNshim the rockers/lower them... see if there are any shims that can be removed... or if the rocker stands can be shaved, as well... otherwise, may need shorter pushrods to keep the lifter plungers from being pushed in too far... or pushrods from bending... valves never fully closing... however, the lifters may be able to absorb the extra .025" without bottoming out...
#6
If you resurface your heads .100" it still will not effect your rocker arms at all.
Yes, you would need shorter push rods.
When you have a pedestal/ shaft type rocker arm system, you shim to obtain the proper geometry.
Hopefully the machine shop paid attention to your "valve stem height" This is what will mess up your geometry.
The push rod length will only effect the lifter pre-load.
1) Shim for geometry.
2) Push rod length for lifter pre-load. (push rod fills in the gap)
Now you must be doing this with oil in the lifters.
A dry lifter will fool you when it comes to your geometry.
Yes, you would need shorter push rods.
When you have a pedestal/ shaft type rocker arm system, you shim to obtain the proper geometry.
Hopefully the machine shop paid attention to your "valve stem height" This is what will mess up your geometry.
The push rod length will only effect the lifter pre-load.
1) Shim for geometry.
2) Push rod length for lifter pre-load. (push rod fills in the gap)
Now you must be doing this with oil in the lifters.
A dry lifter will fool you when it comes to your geometry.
#7
. Yes, I was thinking backwards above... a shim under the rocker arm pivot may be enough to compensate for shaving the heads .025"... which prolly won't be enough to hurt rocker arm geometry/where the rocker arm tip contacts the top of the valve stem/contact patch... but a good opportunity to investigate just how far each piston is being pre-loaded down into each lifter and adjust as needed... with a performance cam, I like to see the lifter piston stay up in the high end of its travel range to lessen the chances of lifter pump up and the amount of pump up that can occur, to prevent valve to engine piston contact... and to quicken recovery from lifter pump up...
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#9
#10
Howdy all, I've been using the forum for some time now and it is helping greatly. I have a similar question as to pushrod length. I'm using a Edelbrock #2172 cam and am considering using 9.45" push rods on the exhaust and stock on the intake. Will I have any issues with this?
To answer your question a little, yes, you will have issues with those length pushrods. I could elaborate a bit but if you've got this figured out, I'd be wasting my inadequate typing "skills."
#11
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Howdy all, I've been using the forum for some time now and it is helping greatly. I have a similar question as to pushrod length. I'm using a Edelbrock #2172 cam and am considering using 9.45" push rods on the exhaust and stock on the intake. Will I have any issues with this?
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