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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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  #61  
Old 03-13-2014, 10:24 PM
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ALBUQ F-1 ALBUQ F-1 is offline
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I would not recommend copper head gaskets on an 8BA, the FelPro and Best brand composite gaskets are excellent, 21st century technology. But I see you are also using studs? Are you running aluminum heads?
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  #62  
Old 03-14-2014, 05:27 AM
fordf5 fordf5 is offline
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I had went back and changed the order to graphite while I still could and forgot to update this to you guys,,to be real honost I had to go back after you posted this to double check the order to be sure what I ended up with. I had changed the order so many times trying to get to the best solution. I had read good and bad about em all..and I was trying to find the best gasket solution to avoid coolant migration,,as many of the original bolts were corroded enough that I didn't feel comfortable using them.
As for the choice to use studs. 3 of the 4 middle waterjacket/stud areas have cracks and after a lot of reading and rereading I thought it best to go with the studs and a ceramic sealer.

I know enough to be dangerous as proven here!!!!!

I really want to get this truck to truckstop as I don't know when the next opportunity for it to be this close will be.
At this time, this has to be an extremely low buck build as I have a daughter in college and a son that will be driving this summer and that = $$$$$. Danged priorities you know. I have also come to realize that I will probably need to do it all over again and that is OK. Not what I want, but, it is what it is.. and heck or high water I am going to drive this truck...dangit!!!!!
Years ago, as a youth, even before I had a license to drive, I was a member of a street rod club and had more fun in the old beaters than I did in the show quality rides. Maybe I am trying to relive my past, I dunno but them were some real good times.
.....Roger
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  #63  
Old 03-22-2014, 07:03 AM
fordf5 fordf5 is offline
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Options!!!!!
Original engine is already bored 060 over. 6 cylinders out of 8 are scared or deeply pitted. Would have to go to 100 over to clean em up...
.
Was offered a complete drivetrain out of a mid 80's monte carlo SBC from my body-man friend for free. He only wants the body parts. He said it can bake the tires.
.
Talked with a man yesterday that has a 51 flathead in a 46 coupe that he will sell for $150. He said it runs well but has a knock that can only be heard with a stethoscope.
.
This truck only has 58000 original miles on it.
.Opinions please!!!!!
........Roger
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  #64  
Old 03-22-2014, 08:33 AM
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1. Providing the SBC is pulling an OD transmission, that would give you a truck with an almost acceptable road speed. The SBC and 700R4 is an easy install in one of these larger trucks. FWIW, I have about $1000. in extras, incidental costs related to the SBC install in my F4. What is a decent road speed worth to you? What is keeping the truck all Ford worth to you?

2.The complete running flathead engine for $150. would be worth it to me. If it is not leaking, the block may be good. That price not much of a gamble. Oil pressure, compression check, depending on how bad the knock is, I might just install it as is.

3.And then there is your engine block. Consider having the block sonic tested and going that much or more oversize. If the rest is good, it is worth it.
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  #65  
Old 03-22-2014, 10:21 AM
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Is the Monte Carlo engine a 305? They are not a robust engine, GM took lots of metal out of the block. Still on a bad day it will have 50 more HP than the flathead and the most likely OD trans is a bonus. If it is EFI, it will cost a fair amount to switch to carb.

You can "generally" go as far as .125 on most flatheads but that is not going to be a budget build. Like Ray said, sonic testing will tell if it's even an option. If you had time to watch for a good used set of .080 pistons it might be worth that if the crank is good. I'd be concerned what caused all the scrapes and gouges; someone trying to hear it run after long time sitting?

The '46 flathead will have a smaller clutch, different flywheel, and the wrong water pumps, and not all that can be swapped off your existing engine. The knock is suspicious, too.
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  #66  
Old 03-22-2014, 11:50 AM
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I never got the engine freed up until it was totally disassembled sooo it wasnt me.
many rings were found broken, and one piston even had a groove cut between the upper oil ring and the second compression ring showing that that ring had been compromised for a loooong time.
I just got home from looking at and hearing the other one run...

He said $200 for the complete engine and the radiator.

I am now off to pull it out.....
......Roger
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  #67  
Old 03-22-2014, 08:11 PM
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It's out and home... it looks good, sounds good and it's another 8BA.
The man that I bought it from is 71 years old,,,retired logger from Washington State... We had a blast and nothing got destroyed...
Now I NEED FOOD!!!!!
.....Roger
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  #68  
Old 03-22-2014, 09:09 PM
Gotanoldtruck Gotanoldtruck is offline
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A few things I learned that may be useful

I have a 1948 F5 so it may have some differences. All of my wheel nuts front and back on the driver side are left handed. They were all marked "L" or "R" but did not see that till I wire brushed them. The front bearing cap screws out with a special tool that was in the truck when I got. Also, the rear inside wheels are easily removed with another tool that I found in my truck. Took me awhile to figure out that outer lugs serve as the inner lug nuts as they are internally threaded on the hub lugs. Perhaps all duallies are that way but I found out the "old school way" Mine have a 3/4" square at then end and the tool in my truck was very useful in getting those inner lug nuts off. One thing I that was served me well. Everything comes of with enough heat. If it does not turn after heating in my case I did not heat it enough. Other than that the truck is rather easy to work on. Here is picture of the tire wrench. Lug nuts are 1.5" wide.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/121146...4/13342456974/
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  #69  
Old 03-22-2014, 09:34 PM
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Thanks for the info.
Ifn I get it mooovin I will need to know all your tricks as brakes will be next.
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  #70  
Old 03-22-2014, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gotanoldtruck View Post
I have a 1948 F5 so it may have some differences. All of my wheel nuts front and back on the driver side are left handed. They were all marked "L" or "R" but did not see that till I wire brushed them. The front bearing cap screws out with a special tool that was in the truck when I got. Also, the rear inside wheels are easily removed with another tool that I found in my truck. Took me awhile to figure out that outer lugs serve as the inner lug nuts as they are internally threaded on the hub lugs. Perhaps all duallies are that way but I found out the "old school way" Mine have a 3/4" square at then end and the tool in my truck was very useful in getting those inner lug nuts off. One thing I that was served me well. Everything comes of with enough heat. If it does not turn after heating in my case I did not heat it enough. Other than that the truck is rather easy to work on. Here is picture of the tire wrench. Lug nuts are 1.5" wide.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/121146...4/13342456974/
Please be very careful working with your widow maker wheels. You might do a Google search for "Firestone RH-5°" wheels. Stu
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  #71  
Old 03-23-2014, 09:07 PM
fordf5 fordf5 is offline
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Cracked the new to me engine open today.
WOW,,, what a relief to see a good one.
Cylinders are perfect, not even a ridge. Absolutely perfect
I think the knocking/ticking that the PO heard was the fact that 9 out of the 12 exhaust/Header bolts were loose.
Head bolts were extremely under-torqued but,, that's great for me as they all came out very easily...
I have a stomach bug and don't feel that great today, but seeing the inside of this engine perked me up a little. BEST $$$ I ever spent!!!!!!!!!!!!!
........Roger
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  #72  
Old 03-23-2014, 10:45 PM
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Using heat on the lugs is likely to raise the pressure in the tires dramatically!!
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  #73  
Old 03-23-2014, 11:58 PM
The Horvaths The Horvaths is offline
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The Horvaths has a good reputation on FTE.The Horvaths has a good reputation on FTE.The Horvaths has a good reputation on FTE.
Using a torch can also spoil the temper of hardened steel. I tend to try to use as little heat as is possible and plan to replace hardened parts if I have to heat them.
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  #74  
Old 03-24-2014, 06:21 AM
fordf5 fordf5 is offline
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One thing that I do not have is a set of torches.
My only heat source is one I built for making knives.
It will do the job for smaller fabrication but not for loosening stubborn bolts.
.Click the image to open in full size.
.
I made these from discarded files.
The copper bolsters are from an electric buss-bar.
Walnut handles are from a tree that blew down many years ago.
.Click the image to open in full size.
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  #75  
Old 03-24-2014, 06:38 AM
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Beautiful use of heat, I am jealous.
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Old 03-24-2014, 06:38 AM
 
 
 
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