1985 F150 I6-300: I just did the Duraspark II Conversion (dist., module, harness, carb). What are my EGR removal options (block off plate, etc)?? Tks.!!

 

I am not too familiar with the sixes. But I am sure you could make a little metal plate and put it under the EGR to block it off. I am not sure what your options are if you want to get rid of the EGR valve itself.

 

Thank you for the reply. Yes, the easiest thing I could do, would be to just put a block off plate on (egr). I would just as soon remove the whole thing though. I'm not sure if I can just bolt the carb. to the intake or not though?!

 

You need the plate because not only does the PCV hose connect to it, so does the EGR exhaust tube. You can get rid of the EGR and leave the tube in place. That tube is a REAL pain in the rear to get off and for me it just wasn't worth it.

You can make a plate to block the EGR and that will take care of it. If you ever decide you want the EGR back, it's simple to just pull the plate.

I started with removing mine and then decided to put it back and convert to a vacuum control since I had gotten rid of the computer.

The problem with mine originally was a bad computer and a bad EGR valve.

In the end, my conversion replaced the carburetor and distributor (HEI), plug wires and plugs, removed the AIR (Smog) system and removed (then replaced) the EGR.

EVAP and EGR were converted to run off vacuum control (via thermal ported switch) and the computer and all it's associated wiring and solenoids were removed.

EGR Block off plate version 1.0..



I have it detailed in a HOW TO (DUI Conversion)

 

Thanks for the reply and pic. Yes, that seems to be the easiest solution (I went w/the DS II Conversion, so no going back now. I just wonder what I would need to do/parts to just remove everything as if it was never there.

 

Where does the 1" hole to the right go to in the intake? I plugged mine with a pipe plug once the check valve rotted off (not knowing what it went to). I can get the lower exhaust tube off, but once again, not knowing what everything connects to, I left it connected (for now) ~Bill

 

That is what went to the air pump (smog system). This picture was taken before I plugged it.

The EGR Tube runs from the exhaust manifold to the EGR plate and feed exhaust into the intake via the EGR valve. It tends to cool things off (helps with ping) and also reduces emissions.

The AIR pump fed air into the exhaust, mostly to cool the catalytic converters. I know some engines had air holes in the head as well, presumably to let the air enter the exhaust at that point. Mine just had a tube going to the exhaust, you can see that in the picture to the lower left. I got rid of that as well.

There are (were) check valves in the AIR system and if they go bad, all sorts of fun things can happen.

 

I know what the formula is for some of the v8's. You just go back to a older engine and get stuff off it. Something in the 60's or very early 70's before the EGR valves came in. Will this work on a six? I don't know, but I do know they made a 240 and then the 300 and they were the same engine. If a older intake would fit the carb and the head, it might be what you are looking for if you could ever find one.

 

Read my HOW TO on the conversion. It covers the computer removal, etc. It was written with a DUI distributor in mind, but everything else is the same

 

I blocked off the EGR valve with a metal plate and it works great.

 

I'm looking to get a carb. spacer made, w/the pcv outlet...it shouldn't be much.

 

I've seen some folks modify the original spacer, cutting off part and welding things up. For my money, the plate and plug worked fine. I have since replaced the EGR valve with a version designed for vacuum control via a thermal switch. It works fine and has helped with gas mileage. Oddly enough, my distributor was curved to work with no EGR and it still does fine.

 

I'll prob. just leave everything for now, but I can get a new spacer made w/the pcv provision (less then $100)/just looks cleaner. I'm in no big hurry though. My truck is running good

 

Thr truck is running great, but I wonder can it run even better...what parts do I need to hook the erg back up...what can I buy new vs the junkyard??

 

It depends what you have left on the vehicle. There needs to be an exhaust tube running to the EGR spacer. Then you need an EGR valve from an older vehicle, one that was designed to run with vacuum (no computer) control. You also need a ported vacuum switch. If you got rid of the computer, there is a temp sensor on the front elbow that was used by the computer. It can be replaced with the ported vacuum switch.

Then you just connect ported vacuum to one side of the switch, and the EGR to the other.

The PVS will turn on the vacuum at a pre-set temperature (they are color coded). That way, the EGR will only be allowed to work when the engine is warm. Since it is a ported vacuum source, it will also only allow it to work when ported vacuum is present (above idle and below WOT)

Pretty much it...