So in reading up on the blinking od light and multiple reasons why... I see it was mentioned quite often about worn out converters...I do have the page with the service bulletin and write up on the TPS... just want to baseline my converter... what rpm should this thing flash at?
Thanks oh..btw 4.10 gears in this truck

 

probably around 1400-1600rpms or so? i dunno,but the oem one in chip truck was too high when loaded up good.she'd just rev and feel mushy off the line until i installed an aftermarket extra low stall.
for the flashing od light issue,you really want the codes first.

 

thanks for the reply.
I'll have to figure that out next..it happened once goosing it around a little in my work parking lot.. went into limp mode..but I didn't drive it..parked it unhooked the cables to clear and have been driving lightly. .shifts fine, lockup works, lockout works..speedo and odometer work...think it's going to end up being a quirky wiring thing as it appears I have a faulty circuit with my temp guage (won't peg when I ground)..
As far as the converter that seems that where mine seems to flash stall.. Apx 1500 rpm area
Thanks

 

Call it 1700 RPMs. 1738 is minimum spec.

 

Wow these things have high stalls, no wonder I keep hearing these trannys don't like city driving, they overheat and puke out oil.


I've noticed that in my E4OD 4.10 F350, it'll rev around 1600-1800RPM, and not much goes on, takes off good when the TC locks though.



My 300-6 with a C6 and 2.73's has more get up and go than my 7.3 E4OD F350..... The C6 in that truck will rev to around 1200RPM and it shoots the truck off the line, and pulls damn good around those low RPM's while my 7.3 F350 is revving near 2k and not doing anything.

 

thats not a common problem with the E40D; overheating city driving.i drive mine around a lot heavy hauling under lockup speeds without issues.
yours should take right off when running empty with no issue at all.id say she's just worn and tired if she doesn't boot scoot and boogie running empty lol.

"My 300-6 with a C6 and 2.73's has more get up and go than my 7.3 E4OD F350"

^not only is that all wrong,but it should be drastically strongly in favor of the idi/e40d and better gearing setup of course.
even as n/a, the idi/e40d combo blew the doors off my previous 300-6 lighter f150 trucks (which were both manuals though.)
she tired right out and or the engine is just out of tune.somethings not right lol.

 

Being an ex plow truck, I wouldn't be surprised if the tranny is tired. Unknown mileage on it as it was swapped in (truck was originally a 5spd standard).

But no, the truck doesn't boot scootin boogie at all, not even close to it, if I floor it, and keep the RPM's over 2500, then it goes like hell, but anything under, it just revs and doesn't do anything special.


It had awesome low end power when the TC is locked though.

 

its my understanding that the tc will not lock until 3rd gear. and a speed sensor malfunction will throw a code, and make the od flash.

 

It locks a moment after it hits 3rd, soon as the TC locks, the RPM's drop to like 1300 and that's when the truck starts putting you back in the seat, but till that happens, not much happens.

 

Probably should start a new post. . Finally fixed the fuel filter o ring and put a new lift pump in...running good no leaks yet..now back to the trans.
Figured out how to read codes...KOEO 23...didn't hold wot...and CM 62.. so far I have checked TPS .. 1.18 smoothly to 3.9x volts. Ground seems ok..
Fluid is a tad over cross hatch area on dipstick ..going to try the manual lockup test next...

 

check for a dirty/bad solenoid pack plug first.if this connection here is shot,then grounding the tccs still wouldn't work if it's connection at the plug is bad.



Failed shift solenoid pack plug.
This is an example of what you don't want to see! This is the main harness that the ECM uses to communicate with the transmission. If yours looks like this one,google search:
E4OD solenoid wire harness repair kit 1989-94
(that will be for all idi trucks with the E40D.)



i used to keep getting the solenoid pack,tot sensor,eec,tcc type codes with mine.finally i had enough and removed the pack.with it out of the truck i could see the corrosion on the pins down in the plug was just too bad for electrical cleaner so i installed a new pack.after the reman i wanted no more hassles.should have gotten changed with the reman but didn't.i cured that though.i think all flashing od lights are long since in the past for both trucks now.i know to closely inspect and clean everything as preventive now.old trucks.so bound to be corrosion issues unless you really,really closely dig,inspect,clean,repair,recondition.all trans wires and clips/pins need to be flawlessly cleaned then greased.once you do that though,you should be hassle free for years.


.............................
this will more than likely cure your issues John:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/E4OD-7-3L-6-9L-DIESEL-TORQUE-CONVERTER-4-STUD-TRANSMISSION-E40D-REMANUFACTURED-/251374144680?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a87110ca8&vxp=mtr

 

Thanks for the reply. I did witness the converter locking and unlocking in the past...I will investigate the trans connector this weekend. .
One other thing. Is the lockup condition also effected by engine temp.. I know on my old late 80 ' s gm metric tranny s lockup would only occur if the engine was warmed.. If so .I am pondering my fast idle/timing advance doesn't seem to be working? These are the only two sensors for engine temp right? Switch for fast idle and temp guage?
Thanks so much

 

Lockup occurs when the tranny (not the engine) is warm enough to lockup. It keeps it self from locking up when cold, in order to warm it self up quicker. Notice that on mine to.

 

Hope I'm not speaking to soon. .But I just came back from a 15 minute ride on 40 mph roads with inclines. .. No flashing od light...locks , unlocks. ..locks out...lockup seems to hold fine on inclin ..motor pulls just fine...
Got under the truck...connector looked wet and muddy.. clips were broken...Pulled it apart looks somewhat clean except for being wet with water and or tranny fluid??? I sprayed the connector with some crc and blew it out.. then used cotton swabs to try and dry out the tranny side.. Also found some chunks of mud laying up around the connector on the tranny... wiped it all down, plugged it back in, it seemed to positively seat so I then went for a ride....
Man... what a relief! !!
Thanks so much h for the write up ' s and posting and sharing.
Just turned this left behind idi into a useful truck again.. alternator, o ring for the filter heater, lift pump, new block heater chord.. and technically a starter...
Thanks again for all the input

 

your welcome.it sounds like that was the issue then.you'll know if you need to replace the connector and or possibly the s-pack if it continues again.it wont set code 62 until the converter unlocks a few times while in od.even if ever so briefly,but now ya know just where to go to resolve the issue.if you saw ATF down in the s-pack/trans side,then the o-ring on the pack may be failing.

i have heavy doses of this applied to all my cleaned up e40d plugs:

you'll have to search the web (or match up the old one) to find an s-pack o-ring but replacing it is pretty easy,should you see ATF down in there causing issues again.it's right there under the pan,easy to get to;

great time to clean the s pack pins.
this is the main line of communication between the trans controller and your transmission.these pins can't be over clean.take your time and make them shine.
upon reasonably,just before plugging it in,apply a nice dose of Permatex 22058 dielectric tune-up grease.