Have a growling noise in the rear when turning for the past two years. Getting worse so I assume I'm getting down to the metal on the clutches. Done all the other stuff like change the fluid and add friction additive. Have not pulled the cover and have the Mag Hytech diff that increases the capacity from 3 to 6 quarts of RP 75W-140 oil. Still does it. Just wanting to know if aftermarket clutch packs are available or is this a dealer only part. Ballpark how much are the clutch packs?

Ed

 

I`ve replaced them on a couple of 10.5 inch rear ends. they are available from the dealer for around $120 give or take! not sure about aftermarket. they are fairly easy to replace, but need to have the axle shafts removed to replace them.

 

When I had 4.30 gears installed in 2008 I stupidly had the stock LS rebuilt for about $150 I think. Now this winter every time the LS stops working and I get peg leg I hear a high pitch squeal. But I fixed it this time the right way but it cost me $1100.00!!!!! But I got a Detroit Locker installed Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup

 

My LS is shot too. Getting my driver side rear wheel to spin is a miracle. Even when it does it doesn't spin much. Going with a locker myself once I have the money

 

i have my stock clutches in a box when i had the guy replace them in 08 with the gears. I was just going to put them in and hold out till summer but after rabbit hunting last week and all the squealing i keep hearing i said Mike do it now before you wipe out the entire rear axle...... so $1100 and im set with a truck that i wont be embarrassed about any more

 

I replaced my clutch pack on my 03 Excursion about 3.5 yrs ago, was shuddering on right turns from stop. Did it with assistance of Ford tech, genuine Ford parts and added friction modifier.

Now 3.5 yrs later getting the same shuddering but on left turn from stop, when cold. I don't tow heavy loads and don't beat on this truck. I checked the fluid level and was a little low (pinion seal has minor leak) and found small crescent shaped piece of metal on plug. I added a little fluid and more friction modifier.

Do I really need to do this job again? What could I have done wrong the first time? Any advice? Thanks in advance.

 

Mine does it starting from the left or right and has for a couple years. Its worse when I am pulling heavy, I hope I am not doing any damage by just running it this way..

 

I replaced mine with a tru-trac and am very happy with the traction results! Detroit TrueTrac 913A481, Detroit Truetrac Differentials | Detroit TrueTrac

 

so the still unanswered question- will this cause other more severe damage or will it just result in needing new clutch pack?

If a new diff is installed, does it still need the clutch pack or is it all self contained? If I have to open the rear again and do this job, may as well put in a better diff or even a locker.

 

Yes this is bad and should be fixed as soon as possible. The clutch material is floating around in the gear oil and it's getting between the gear set teeth and more importantly into your bearings!

 

any idea why mine would have only lasted a few years before failing again? Is this a weak point? Should I consider replacing with a different differential, do other types not use this sort of clutch?

 

Don't waste your time going back to stock. Spend the money and get yourself a detroit tru trac. It's well worth the money, has traction when you need it, and doesn't fall apart like the OE setup.

 

I remember when doing the clutches in my 89 F250 that I had to use a 4' pry bar to get the spiders back in with the new clutches because they were so tight. Yeah I didn't leave any spacers out, everything that came in the kit went in! lol

That LSD worked like a champ with 33's on it!

 

Is it something that an ASE mechanic can do, or should it go to drivetrain specialist?

How do I know exactly which rear is in my excursion? 2003 Eddie Bauer 7.3

TIA

 

It's a Ford Sterling 10.5"