getting ready to fab up some bump stop brackets. curious where everyone relocated their bump stops with a c notch..

 

Right now it looks like I will not need a C notch but during planning stages I was going to bolt a 1/4" thick piece of rubber at the inside top of the notch. I didnt want to add so much extra height for a standard bumper.

 

Right above the axle! Is there any other choice?

 

I pre thought this out in mock up because I new after boxing I didn't want to be fiddling around. Used a 2.5" round GM bump stop and half inch hardware. Tacked a nut inside the notch box right where the axle would touch bottomed out. I cut 2/3 of the stop away so I have about a 1" bumper with the bolt recessed inside by 3/8". No metal to metal contact possible.

 

The bumper needs to absorb the energy of the axle slamming up; I don't think 1/4" rubber will do that.

 

Maybe, maybe not, but I have the snubbers on my 37 buick cut down to 1/2" and they work ok. Hitting them is not something that happens a lot in normal driving.

 

Mine isn't c-notched but I used this from Pep boys. It wont have very much cushion but better than nothing.
Energy Suspension Hyper-Flex Universal low profile button head bump stop | Product Details | Pep Boys

 

My C knotch is 2 inches deep so it left 2 inches of frame rail. I boxed the frame, welded a 2x2x1/4 angle on the inside side (boxed side) of the frame rail and mounted the snubber under the angle so the bottom edge of the snubber is about 3/4" belwo the top of the knotch. Only question is how much does the snubber compress under normal overload conditions? I'll might have to go take a photo of it.

 

I think I am going to grab a pair of those for testing. I should have 4" suspension travel at ride height, if it looks like I will be hitting the stops during normal driving then I will go with a C notch. Thanks for the pic!

 

It all depends...if you have your frame notched then chances are that you are already more than a little concerned about road conditions given that your chassis is so much closer to the ground. I have my frame notched and I am using a high energy absorbing material (sorbothane) to line the portion of the notch directly above the axle tube. I NEVER expect to bottom out given the condition of the roads I drive on...but there is always a chance that there may be a pothole lurking out there waiting for me. Even if I do hit something that would cause the axle tube to contact the frame, by the time the axle travels up that far it has already been subjected to the downward forces of the springs and the shocks which hopefully have done their job to reduce the energy in final impact significantly. I'll let you know how my design works out when/if it ever comes to the point where it's needed.

 

It is pretty amazing how little the rear suspension really moves during normal driving. My 37 Buick rear spings settled out after a year of driving and left me with about 2" of suspension travel before it will hit the bump stop. The only time it has ever hit was on a section of road that has a "whoop do do" type drop and then incline so the suspension unloads and then loads up quickly after. These are lowering leaf springs and no where near as stiff as truck springs. No biggie when it did hit but I know to slow down there now

 

AX....for some reason the simplicity of that response made me laugh for a good minute or two. Classic!!

 

I used a product sold by Eaton spring that also is used on normal trucks as an overload protection. It is fairly hard rubber bellows that absorb the movement. I have been very pleased with them.

 

I will have about 3" of clearance after the bed is back on,
and that should be enough. (I hope)

 

I was thinking about something like this... Excuse the horrible drawing. The only question is how much of the bump stop do I let hang down below the frame (c-notch)..