Hello all, My son is in an automotive class and his last class engine building. He needed a motor to build/rebuild. It was between the 223 straight 6 out of the '55 or the straight 6 200 out of the '66 Mustang. He took the one out of the truck. The teacher is impressed and excited due to the age. I think it's kind of funny that he is that excited about a pretty simple engine.

Here's the issue I'm running into. I can seem to get the gaskets and rebuild kit etc..., but when my son took the valve cover off, the 2 feed tubes for the oil that lubes the lifters etc... are bent up pretty good. One is a suppl y tube and one is a return tube. Does anyone know where I can possibly get these tube? I might have to make them, but if I can buy them already made, that would be better, maybe. If there are any other parts that might be hard to find, please let me know what they might be and where I might get them as well. I know there was a place in, I think New York that carryied hard to find parts, but I can't remember the name.

Thanks, Ralph

 

I have a couple junk 223's that should have them, if you don't find any new ones.

 

EAA-6580-B .. Tube-Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Oil Inlet / Obsolete

1952/53 215 / 1954/61 223 / 1962 223 before serial number 280,001.

No Ford dealer or obsolete parts vendor has any.
--------------------------------------------------------------
B5A-6588-B .. Tube-Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Oil Outlet / Approx. 12 13/16" overall length / Obsolete

1954/61 223 / 1962 223 before serial number 280,001.

WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY has 1 = 606=787-5293.

NORTZ & VIRKLER FORD in Lowville NY has 1 = 315-376-6594.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 4 = 800-543-4959.

CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has 9 = 800-476-9653.

 

When I junked a few 215 engines (similar to 223), those parts went with them.

Also, Green Sales was my friend when it came to buying parts to rebuild my 215. The had mostly everything I needed in NOS.

 

WOW!! Thanks for the quick response. I'll try to call a couple of these places that NumberDummy gave and see what I can get. I might have to try to make the 6580-B part. I used to be pretty good at making brake lines when I worked on busses. Thanks again for the quick responses!

 

OK so along the same lines with rebuilding this motor. My son told me that this motor has been rebuilt before. He said the crank has been milled to 40 overand the book says don't go any more than 30 over. The motor ran before we pulled it. It smoked a little and it leaked out of the blow off tube. The purpose of pulling the motor was two fold. First, so my son would have a motor to rebuild for his class and second to maybe freshen it up a little and get it to not smoke or blow off. Any thoughts on whether I should replace the crank, where I can get a replacement or where I can get 40 over bearings? I'm thinking maybe we can dress up what I already have and put it back together. The truck basically travels to local shows and is driven for pleasure on the weekends etc... It probably doesn't get 5,000 miles per year, probably closer to 3,000 mile per year. The truck is all original. Let me know what y'all think. Just a reminder, this is the 223, straight 6 motor. Everybody in the class is in awe of this motor. Ha-ha

 

My 215 (same as a 223) was bored 60 over during its last rebuild recently. I found NOS parts from Green Sales in Ohio. Parts were a few hundred $$. I suggest having the crankshaft magnafluxed because most of them are prone to cracking in the journals. Finding a decent one isn't hard, but isn't easy either. The crank in my 215 was cracked in the journals. I found one on eBay that the seller had magnafluxed before selling it to me. UPS dropped it somewhere along the way and broke it in half. Seller had another one on hand that was also magnafluxed and good. Needless to say, the parts are out there, you just have to look for them. A lot of the engine parts are available through the regular repro warehouses as well. Napa carries the timing chain and all ignition/tune-up parts.

You can also get an Offenhauser valve cover and a 2x1 intake, as well as an intake that will accept a larger Holley carb. Patriot and Clifford also make headers for these engines.

This was my set up before I removed the 2x1 intake (it ran like crap because I couldn't get the carbs synced no matter how much I tried).

 

Wow Panelman thats a sweet setup. What a great looking build

 

WOWThat is a good looking build. I don't think I'm trying to put that kind of money into it. I basically pulled the motor to give my son something for his class and to freshen it up a little. The truck is basically stock. I do want to paint the motor in the original colors etc... I mis spoke when I said the crank was milled 40 over, I meant 40 under. The cylinders are bored 30 over. The motor looks pretty good all around. There was a little bit of wear on the crank bearings, but the pistons looked good and the cam looked good. PWENG1, where aqre you in Maryland? I'm in Ellicott City. Do you ever go to the cruise in at Marley Station?

 

I will soon Fowl its about 8 blocks away. I own the one in my avatar and my brother in law has 2 55 chevys

 

UPDATE UPDATE!! Well I found a guy, actually a shop close to where I live who can make the oil tubes for me. He didn't give me a price so I'm hoping he doesn't hose me. I also found a place in New York who I could have sent them to and had them made. I figure the local guy was the better choice as far as time and keeping a local business in business.

The new question is, Does anyone know if the seal for the feed tube is available? The seal number is 6594 on Number Dummies parts picture. I need to know if someone like Mid fifties or some one might have that seal of do I have to try to have it made?

Thanks for all of your help on this.

 

If they end up being to costly to make send me a PM as I still have a few of these engines that are complete

 

EAA-6594-A .. Rubber Seal-Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Oil Inlet Tube / .43" O.D. x .24" I.D. x .12" thick / Obsolete

1952/53 215 / 1954/64 223 / 1961/64 262.

MANDERBACH FORD in Temple PA has 2 = 888-225-4364.

NORTZ & VIRKLER FORD in Lowville NY has 9 = 315-376-6594 / Also has (1) B5A-6588-B .. Oil Outlet Tube

ANTIQUE AUTO SUPPLY in Arlington TX has 20 = 817-275-2381.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 111 = 800-543-4959 / Also has (4) B5A-6588-B .. Oil Outlet Tube.

Why have this tube made when there are 15 available NOS?

 

OUCH and it's my own stupid fault. I figured these tubes would cost in the $40 to $50 range to have made. I didn't push for a cost when I dropped them off. Big mistake although they never give prices to make lines. I had the one made even though there are others available because I figured, what the heck no need to wait for it in the mail etc... For these 2 lines, now they are made out of stainless, which I don't really need stainless, but that's all they use, I ended up paying, don't laugh and call me names and stuff, but it cost me $140! My rear end is a little sore especially when I called Classic tubes in NY and the guy told me it would be around $20 to make the feed tube. Lesson learned. I ordered the seal from Green Sales in Ohio. Thanks for that source. I'll try to keep you updated on the progress.

 

confused???? the capabilities of machine work and they cant make a
simple pipe even out of copper tubing witch isnt oil pressure its oil flow.??