So Last october I traded my 79 bronco for a 95 f150. On the way home the engine blew up on me. The fact was there was NO oil in the damn engine. No worries though, that tired little 5.0 was bound to go at some point and it gave me a great excuse to put an engine in that I wanted. Needless to say my wife (we had been married for all of 3 weeks when this happened) was not happy.

So began my 302 to 351w swap in my 1995 f150 I nick named the "Big Blue Bomb" for obvious reasons. First off let me say I have minimal experience with this kind of thing but with a lot of homework and good documentation (take a ton of pics) anyone can do this swap. I started by purchasing a 351w long block from Mabbco Motors out of TX. The 95 roller engine was bored .30 over and had new pistons with 9.5:1 compression installed. I also had them add a double roller timing set, and high torque or what some would call an RV camshaft. With that all done I got an intake from a junk yard 351w along with an AC delete bracket.

New Parts List.
Power Steering pump (just because)
water pump (can use 302 but why bother)
all grade 8 hardware (old stuff was rusty)
distributor (new cam requires new dizy or dizy gear)
plugs and wires
new sensors (dont put old ones back in. they lead to problems)
egr delete chip (ebay)
Bosch fuel injector rebuild kit (used stock 302 rails and injectors)
belts and hoses
new balancer (302 will not work)
new flex plate (302 will not work)
valve covers (302 will work)
PCV valve
engine mounts
oil pan
oil pump
oil pump drive shaft


Here are a few things I ran across when looking up this project.

1) "The stock accessory brackets wont fit the taller deck height"
This is a lie. the accesory brackets bolt into the heads so they are the exact same height in relation to the valve covers as a 302. there is even a separate hole for where the 302 bracket will key onto the 351 water pump position.

2) You can use the stock fuel rails and injectors up to 300 hp. a mild torque engine build like mine will be well below that. you will have to get new fuel lines to go between the rails as they sit further apart on a 351. use the good hose clamps to hold in place, not the worm screw kind.

3) Remeber to put the truck in neutral when trying to line the trans up. Sounds stupid but it took me an hour to figure it out.

4) the stock balancer and flex plate are the wrong offset/weight. they will fit onto your 351 but dont. get new ones.

5) exhaust. unless you have long tube headers on your 302 then you will probably need to get new headers for your 351. mine are super long and still came close.

6) 302 brackets and accesorys will still use a standard 351 serp belt. Also the fan and shroud from the 302 fit fine on the 351.

7) You may have to bend the transmission dip stick tube slightly to fit.

8) the 302 throttle body will bolt right up to the 351 intake. your 351 intake may have extra holes in it for sensors or egr equipment not used by the 302 computer. you can plug these holes with fittings from the plumbing department at your local hardware store. I think they are 3/8ths.

Fell free to ask me any other questions you might have. As this is a great upgrade for these trucks we should start collecting info into 1 post so that future people can have all the info in 1 place.


BLOWN 302. take lots of pics. you will need them when hooking all this crap back up.

All said and done I have $4000 in this truck when you consider the cost of the bronco I traded for it and all the parts and a LOT of time.



STOCK 302



CLEAN THE PARTS. i don't recommend doing this though. pissed the wife off.



NEW ENGINE BUILD UP



POWER STEERING PULLEYS REQUIRE A SPECIAL TOOL. NOT A NORMAL PULLER. LESSON LEARNED.






A REGULAR PULLER WILL NOT REACH THE ENGINE. YOU NEED TO MAKE A 5 FOOT ARM TO GET IT. DONT PAY ANY ATTENTION TO THE MURDER SCENE BELOW THE TRUCK.



OLD ENGINE MOUNTS. SOME WILL COME OFF THE EASY WAY, OTHERS WILL TAKE THE HARD WAY.





LOTS OF ROOM IN THE ENGINE BAY TO WORK. I AM STANDING IN THERE WITH THE ENGINE INSTALLED.

 

Interesting build. Did you build your transmission to be able to hold up to the power of the 351W with those mods or has it been doing fine. Good to know on some of those things you have posted above.
When you said timing set I thought you went the gear style not the chain type. That is sweet that you got MAF already in your truck.
Trav

 

trans is rebuilt with new trans cooler, shift kit, and HD clutch packs

 

Which trans you running on it? I am guessing probably an E4OD. Sounds like a nice little truck.
Trav

 

yeah its a E40D. I am hoping it lives with the new power and those big ars wheels.

 

As long as the pumpkins have appropriate gearing(not 3.55s) it will be fine. Also be sure to flush all the trans lines on the truck especially those inside the rad, and install an aux oil cooler and temp gauge to keep an eye on things.

 

Damn that's a big truck...

 

Just noticed the 8 lug pattern on the wheels did you go D60 front and Sterling 10.25 rear?
I would think the E4OD will last but when it goes I would suggest a ZF5 swap (if you want standard).

And Bob that really isn't to high my buddy has a 77 F150 that the bottom of it sits right at the top of the bed on my brothers 91 F250 with 2inch lift.
Trav

 

Yup, and finding out what a pain in the ars these giant brakes and roters are when trying to get some daily driver tires and rims. I wanted to get some humvee baja take offs just for going around town but i have no idea if those 16.5 inch rims will fit.

 

What do you mean.... It takes any standard 16" rim or bigger. The brakes aren't really that big. They are tiny compared to modern superduty brakes that require 17-18" wheels to clear the caliper.
16.5 rims fit. It's the offset that you need to be concerned with. The hmmwv rims are only 6-7" wide and have an extreme offset. I think the hub opening is too small also.

 

The 351 intake sucks, and if you're using stock heads then the cam is only helping a little.
That being said, the 351 is a weak anaemic pos usually and transmission upgrades aren't usually needed unless you're doing extreme stuff. It's good that you upgraded it when you could, but to redneckford, going to a 351 usually doesn't require upgrading the trans.

To the op, what "RV" cam did you use. Is it efi friendly. 112 lobe center is the limit(with exceptions), and 114 is preferred unless you have some tuning software. Do you have the part number of the cam you used.

 

05 super duty axles wont fit 16.5 I was told. I was going to get a set of steels for the wheels from summit that are 9.75 inches wide.

Are there numbers on these diffs that tell exactly what they are?

 

Do you have 05 super duty axles..... And I said that the superdutys require bigger rims in my previous post
Your picture shows chrome wagon wheels on your truck, which I've never seen on a super duty, so a 16.5 wheel will fit on any axle 97 and older.

What am I missing here? Please clarify with additional information.
Someone asked if you went to a d60 and 10.25 and all you said was yup. Being that you didnt have to oval the holes in your chrome wagon wheels (which I've done to get them to fit a superduty axle) and you say you have a 10.25 and not the superduty 10.5, and they are actually on your truck, means to me that the rims you're looking for don't need to be any bigger than the ones currently on the truck, which are probably 16.5"....
Again, what am I missing? Do you not have calipers on the front to get the wheels on, but what about bolt pattern.... Can I just not see ovaled holes on my phone or what.

 

Looks to me like he's got a king pin axle under the front end?

 

So i didnt do the sas. The truck came with it done. I was told the axels were a f250 superduty but i didnt know the year. He thought it was an 04 or 05. I have 17 rims on right now and it looks like they wont fit without the spacers that are on them. I plan to take those off btw.