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1979 Ford Bronco 351m cranks but no spark..

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  #16  
Old 03-11-2014, 10:05 PM
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When the resin melts in the Ford modules.....it's time to replace........and yours look toasty and kruddy!! TIME TO REPLACE and always carry a spare! (It only takes ONE time getting stuck in the woods, 50 milles from anything to learn that!) Been there....done that!!!

Like Greystreak said....almost ALL the time....no spark conditions in the Duraspark controlled trucks........it's the Duraspark module.
 
  #17  
Old 03-15-2014, 06:46 AM
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And when it isnt the module,Almost all of the rest of the time it is the stator.
 
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Old 03-15-2014, 02:22 PM
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  #19  
Old 05-24-2014, 10:43 PM
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Sorry it took a bit long for a update.. but i wanted to give you guys a update. But today i finally went to you pull it junk yard and got parts for the trucks.

And I got 2 module and yes i know used is pretty much most of the time is a bad idea but they was ony 6$ each what got me a bit worried is the wires was in different places but it came from the same motor 351m out of a 77-79 pickups.

But here's the big news!!! Came home pop it in sprayed some starting fluid in the carb and bang the bronco fired!! and started for a few secs!!. So yep it was the module like greystreak said and the rest if you guys

So i wanted to thank you guys

Still a good bit more to go sense its not getting gas from the tank but will start when you pour gas in the carb,

So either the tank don't have gas or the fuel pump died or even bad gas, But will work on that tomorrow. But the main thing i wanted is getting spark and know the engine will run again.. So the hardest part is pretty much over.

Thanks again guys I will post pics of it and even get a video of it running on it own when i figure out the gas problem.

I know were im coming back to when i want a question answered or problem
 
  #20  
Old 05-29-2014, 01:17 AM
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Wanted to give another update.

Replace the accelerator pump and gasket to fixed the leak and used a pepsi bottle so it can feed gas to it and it started right up and ran and idled after i adjusted the idle screw.

Runs strong and sounds good. Which im surprise sense it sat sense 2002 or 2003.

Now i tried some gas in the tank and it did pump from that but it seems like there's alot of bad gas in there still cause it smells weak and the truck ony fires once and stalls out.

So pretty much will have to pull the tank, Than will also have to work on the brakes after that, Sense they just go right down to the floor even tho there's no leaks that i see.

But the good thing there,s life in it
 
  #21  
Old 05-14-2016, 11:52 PM
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so it seems like the problem is back...:(

I hope im aloud to bring this old thread back? if not plz let me know.


So 2 days ago i wanted to start on this bronco i had to stop 2 years ago because of other troubles when i got it running.

But i did get it moving on its own power than the brake line broke.


So yea 2days ago i went out replace the brake line than i went to start it which i put gas down the carb like i always did and few times it back fired loud like a gun shot.. it has never did this before..

But even after that it still was trying to fire than it started for 2secs but was very weak i had to keep the pedal floored than it stalled. Still was firing. So i figure i hook up a gas can to it and letting the fuel pump suck it from the can. After a hour trying to get that going because it was just bubbling i finally got gas to hit the carb.

I went to try it again and it fired a few more times but than it quit and just cranked... So i checked for spark at the number 1 spark plug and at first it was getting spark than no spark at all.. So i switch to the other dura spark module that i bought at the junk yard 2 years ago and that still didn't do anything..

Than i checked the spark at the coil and im getting spark at it but ony getting a yellow spark which i forgot what color it was getting 2 years ago when i had this same problem. might've been yellow too. And last i herd yellow is a weak spark even tho it is a pretty bright yellow spark.

So than i tested the coil with a meter and im getting around 6.5volts when the key is on at the postive side... Is that normal or should that be alot higher?

Pretty much this seem like the same problem i had 2years ago which was the dura spark module and after replacing it with one it started right up and ran perfect.

But this time im not sure about it cause the 2nd module i had does not work.. unless it somehow went bad over these 2 years too cause it was also siting in one of my other trucks a 85 f350 van with a 400m in it which i still cant get that to spark either. So maybe from trying it alot of times it blew the module out from trying last year..

I just wanted to see if there is any other problems that would cause this before i try too find another module. i was thinking of pickup coil but im not sure...


And again i hope if it was ok to revive this thread again, but i would think it would be best to do it cause than everyone can read what i went threw 2 years ago.


I just really want to get this problem solved so i can finally get this truck going sense i have the time now lol..
 
  #22  
Old 05-16-2016, 05:50 PM
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welp got it running again i went to auto zone and picked up the dura last ignition module which has a life time warranty which is great, pop it in and bang got spark and it tried starting up but had tons of back firing out of the carb and pipe. tried a few more times and got it running smooth

never trust part store testers... They don't work.. said my 2 modules are good even tho they wasn't... It had be thinking it was the pick up coil. but someone on Facebook in the bronco page told me to replace it and i asked them is this a good one to buy Duralast/Ignition Control Module F102- ReadReviews onDuralast #F102 and they said yep that's what they buy and the good thing it has a lifetime warranty, said they do last 3 to 5 years but than again that's what the warranty is for.

So now i can start working on other stuff on it


But yea them dam testers.. and these dam dura spark boxes lol..
 
  #23  
Old 05-16-2016, 06:24 PM
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Good you got it running! Yeah the parts store testers aren't always the greatest. Depending on what they are testing, they can't test every aspect or don't do a thorough testing at all. With a lot of ignition type components, they can test good if they have been sitting, but after several tests and heating up, they will finally test bad.

I've started to stray away from parts store products unless it's something small like hoses/clamps/filters etc. You can still get good parts at the parts store, but it's usually much cheaper to get OEM brand parts online from places like rockauto or something.

The lifetime warranty offered is pretty nice through parts store though and the convenience of getting it right away (usually) is even better.
 
  #24  
Old 05-17-2016, 05:09 PM
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Just went out couple mins to start it and all i get is cranking now... pretty much like with the other modules.... i even disconnected the battery last night, so this really doesn't make sense at all... is there a fuse to cause it not to spark? maybe for some reason it blew out..



started it up like 5 times last night and ran perfect...



edit just check spark at the number one spark plug and i get nothing again... the box cant go bad this fast can it?


just doeisnt make sense.. started it 5 times lastnight to see if it will and it did, so i disconnected the battery and put the cover on.. went out 30mins ago to see if it starts and i get nothing just cranks..



Just called auto zone and they said they will give a 2nd one no problem, and they also said if it doesn't work still i can get my money back. told them i will just go with a hei dist.. they much nicer than advance by a long shot lol..
 
  #25  
Old 05-17-2016, 09:15 PM
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Pretty much im at a lost now.. get the dam thing running last night which it was the box.. and now something just dies out of nowhere overnight ... which i took the chance with another box and nope not it this time...


Really im thinking it might be best to get a hei one wire dist on ebay...


Also i found this does the wire on the pickup coil look in bad shape??? which i wonder if the pickup coil just died this time even tho how can it overnight when the battery was not in the truck.. even tho i did put a volt tester on the non positive side of the coilwhile cranking and i do get pulses does that mean the pickup coil is working?






 
  #26  
Old 05-17-2016, 10:39 PM
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I'm not too familiar with that style ignition setup but the wire does look like it's seen better days.

I've had two pickup coils go bad with my distributor that I had on the 302. I'm not sure if the pulses mean the coil is working or not.. I would think it does but there could be something else potentially as well.
 
  #27  
Old 05-17-2016, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Bubba Jones
I'm not too familiar with that style ignition setup but the wire does look like it's seen better days.

I've had two pickup coils go bad with my distributor that I had on the 302. I'm not sure if the pulses mean the coil is working or not.. I would think it does but there could be something else potentially as well.

Yea and the dirt and rust probably doesn't help either..

I did test the ohms and im getting this which starts from 12 something and ends at 17.13 and climbs slowly.. Im pretty sure that's 17 something ohms? when looking it up were it suppose to be it should be 400-700ohms.

unless im reading it wrong and what it shows is good. i get confuse with ohms readings lol
 
  #28  
Old 05-18-2016, 12:10 AM
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Hmm. I've never tried testing a pickup coil so I don't know the procedure or the readings. If the ohms are supposed to be between 400-700 and what you're testing is giving accurate readings, then it definitely doesn't seem right.

The testing function ranges on between various multi-meters. Lots of them have different ohm settings based on the level of resistance you're trying to measure. Lot's of them will have settings like 2m, 2k 200 and 2 basically meaning you're trying to measure resistances in the millions, thousands, hundreds, and then just single ohms. It's basically just an accuracy type thing.

Usually depending on the setting, it will adjust the decimal point accordingly so if you measure on the 2k setting and are getting a reading of 12 ohms, it will come up as .012.
 
  #29  
Old 05-18-2016, 12:36 AM
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hmm mine just has one auto setting for ohms.

I kinda thinking of returning the module box and just going with a hei one wire dist i saw on eBay for 40$ that way it pretty much bypasses everything else that could be the problem....

Could be pickup coil which what im thinking and those cost around 30$ than if not it could be the rotor or cap which is another 30$.. than the 30$ i paid totals around 90$ heck it could be other things too..

Just really doesn't make sense when it ran perfect a day ago started 5 times before i put the cover on it and i also disconnected the battery. and went out today and just got cranking like before with the bad box... but replace it with another one and still the problem..
 
  #30  
Old 05-18-2016, 01:08 AM
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Yeah that does seem pretty strange. Getting a new distributor at this point may not be a bad idea, either for the setup you have now, or the one wire distributor on eBay.

The only starting issues I've ever had with my Bronco with the 302 were because of the distributor pick-up coil. I replaced the distributor twice because of it (because you have to disassemble the whole distributor to get the pickup coil in and out and by that time it's better to just have replaced it.)

With my truck being diesel now, I had the injector driver module fail on me twice, making the injectors not supply fuel. Everything seemed great one day, then it just wouldn't start. I hope I fixed that problem by fixing some grounds and other wires, but diesels are new to me. Replacing these computers is getting expensive.

Hopefully it's not too much trouble to get your truck started.

Edit: Started reliably that is. Intermittent problems are the worst.
 
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