I want to do a tuneup on my 54 six 223 but I am wondering if I should use the original tuneup specs that are in my reproduction 1954-55 shop manual? Now that we use 87 unleaded gas instead of the old leaded gas, should any of the specs be modified to make the engine run at its best or should I stick with the book?

The specs in the book are as follows: Idle RPM @475-500, Timing @5 Deg. BTDC, Dwell @35-38 Deg., Point Gap @.024-.026, Plug Gap @.025-.029.

I don't think this is the original engine but it is still a 223. Any thoughts and experience? Would it be beneficial to use a higher octane gas?

Thanks,
Bob

 

use the same old spec's as stated.. u can put in lead additive in the gas.
i use it. if u are going to pull the dizzy for rebuild then do the dwell on it.. get points close to gap and dwell it, leave the gap where it falls. for me i prefer to dwell it vs gap only.
bill

 

If I use a lead additive what will I see in the performance? Will it run smoother than if I don't use the additive?

 

You realize that lead additives are not really lead, right? These are still low compression engines by design and don't benefit from higher octane fuel.

 

Save the "lead additive" money for hardened valve seats.

 

Leaded fuel additives in our trucks has been discussed here at FTE many time over the years. I think the consensus was that unless you are hauling heavy loads daily or racing (I mean drag racing or oval track racing if anyone does that) you do not need a lead additive.

I wonder if Big Job, who has a fleet of 48-56 construction trucks, has noticed any effect on his trucks with or with out lead?

A bigger concern for me is the lack of zinc in motor oil and how it affects our cams.

 

Do exactly what Bill said

 

Thanks guys!!!! I will follow Bills advise. FortyNiner......now I know why all those lead sinkers I put in my gas tank didn't help much!!!!LOL

 

i put a 1/2oz sinker in ea fill up... i keep checking the rear because of the noise.. so now i know it's 3 dozen sinkers in the gas tk roll'n around and not do'n nut'n... now i got to find a long magnet to remove them.. rats !!!!
i learn something new here all the time..

 

The plugs, points, condenser, cap and rotor have all been replaced. The vacuum advance line from the distributer connects almost at the top of the carburetor on the side. When I connect my vacuum gauge to this line it shows little to nothing at idle. There are two ports in the manifold below the carburetor that have plugs in them. To get a vacuum reading, should the vacuum gauge be connected to one of these ports or am I correct in connecting the vacuum gauge to the vacuum line that connects to the carburetor. Is a zero reading at idle correct?

(I would post a couple of pictures of the carburetor and manifold but this system won't let me. I have to figure out how it is done.)

 

No effect reg. pump gas... the only effect I see with this modern junk fuel is
that I cant keep it in anything. My F250 uses a gallon every 10 feet- lawnmowers a gallon an hour even diesel evaporates.

 

You want manifold vacuum, not spark advance, to use a gauge.

Read about "lead additives" testing once. They work, but only at concentrations much higher than advertised. The expense then would equal the fuel cost at every fill up, practically. Hardened valve seats are the way to go.