I have a 2003 F250 6.0l powerstroke, My truck was running rough and I was getting a Nr 2 cylinder imbalance code. Today I changed out the Nr 2 injector since the last time I received this code on the Nr 6 cylinder, an injector change out cleared the code and smoothed out the engine. Now I’m getting a P0265 code (Cylinder 2 Injector Circuit High) and the engine is still running rough. P0265 Cylinder 2 Injector Circuit High OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com says that possible causes are:

- Dirty Fuel Injector 2
- Faulty Fuel Injector 2
- Plugged Fuel Injector 2
- Fuel injector 2 harness is open or shorted
- Fuel injector 2 circuit poor electrical connection

I know that the injector that I removed was faulty since the small nut was missing on the injector (same thing happened on my Nr 6 injector). I’m thinking that I should be able to rule out the majority of the above causes since I installed a new injector, that the cause of my code is either the injector harness plug or that the injector is not all the way plugged in. I’m hoping I do not have to pull the valve cover off again since it took me about 4 hours to make the repair. I’m planning on pulling the air filter off again in the morning and see if I can mess with the connector to get a better connection. Anyone have any thoughts or tips? Any help would be appreciated.

 

Moved to the 6.0 forum

 

Look for chaffing. A high circuit would indicate a shorted spool valve or a injector wire touching ground.

Sent from my leash using IB AutoGroup

 

When you say "missing the small nut" do you mean that just the nut is gone or the through bolt is broken?

 

I would suspect the small nut is missing or gone and hopefully he found it. I have had two injectors experience this same issue. I managed to find both nuts around the exhaust valve springs. Otherwise in the oil pan they go!

I pulled the rest and loctited everyone of them.

 

The reason I asked was that if the small bolts are breaking it usually indicates a fuel pressure issue.

 

Sorry did not mean to come off the wron way. I have never heard of the bolts breaking that's crazy. Learn something new everyday

 

Thanks for the replies. I meant the small nut I attached a picture, and I was unable to find it drug a magnet and looked really hard I plan on changing the oil when I figure out my problem <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
<o></o>
Yesterday I went out and checked the connector to the Nr 2 injector sand low and behold I wasn’t all the way plugged in and the connection was sloppy. So I tried to reconnect the plugs and the injector pig tail connector pushed back into the block. This is the connector that comes from the injector and goes through the block. At this point I tried to pull the connector out unsuccessfully with a pair of needle nose pliers, then I went through the process of removing the valve cover to fix the issue. Once complete I reran the truck for a test run and I’m still getting the same two codes (I think they are PO265 and PO266 but they are the same two codes as in my previous post). At this point I rechecked the injector plug and pushed it back into the valve cover. Not sure why I keep pushing it in since it is sitting flush and tight in the injector plug hole. This time instead of taking off the valve cover I removed the plug/cap by the Nr 2 cylinder and I was able to get access to the injector plug and push it back tight against the block I really wish I would have realized this in the morning since it would have saved me some serious time. This did not fix my issue and now I have a couple questions that I’m hoping someone can shed some light one.<o></o>
On the injector there are 4 wires that go into the injector pig tail connector. The colors are white, blue, red and block. All the other injectors that are installed in my truck have the injector orientated so that when you look down at the injector connector the white wire is at the left and the blue while is to the right with a flat portion of the injector pigtail connector on the top. In order for me to get the orientation of the wires like the other injectors the L shaped portion of the injector connector is on the Top or that is what you see when you remove the valve cover. The pictures below are from the injector that I removed not the new injector installed. I hope the pictures illustrate what I’m talking about in regards to the flat and L portion of the plug. All the other injectors have the flat portion up but If I do this I will not match the orientation of the color coded wires to the other injector. What I’m going to try next, is to reorient the injector pigtail plug so that the flat portion of the plug is on top and forget about the orientation of the colored wires. Figured it’s worth a try. If this doesn’t work the truck may be heading to Ford. <o></o>
Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. <o></o>

https://drive.google.com/folderview?...m8&usp=sharing

 

https://drive.google.com/folderview?...m8&usp=sharing

 

 

There is an open coil and a close coil for the spool valves which are also directional. It sounds to me like they've been taken apart for some unknown reason so it might be in your best interest to make sure they're assembled correctly. There is a thread here somewhere about taking apart the spool valves to clean them and IIRC it details how to make sure they're assembled right. I'll see if I can find it. it's by dr67 I believe.

Here you go, pictures included: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...rks-great.html

 

Thanks for the info that would make sense as to why the wire orientation seems different. When I have some time to pull it out of my truck again I'll check that out if the are wrong then the injector is going back to the store. Thanks again

 

Latest update: Saturday I changed the starter and the truck started right up but I was blowing smoke. I also blew out a bunch of fuel from the exhaust on the driveway. Ran the truck around town and hit the highway and the smoke cleared although I was still slightly smoking. I let the truck sit for a couple hours started it up and had no smoke. I did some local driving Sunday and the truck ran great it is starting better than it ever had and is idling and running a lot better. I had no codes Saturday or Sunday. I ran the truck to work today about 12 miles highway it’s running a lot better but I checked my codes when I got to work and the PO266 # 2 cylinder imbalance is back. Now I’m not sure what is going on. I’m going to rehash out my chain of events and may or may not start a new treed.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
· Was out plowing and battery voltage was low after about 6 hours of plowing with everything on. Lights were dimming and radio was kicking off. I turned everything off that I didn’t need and problem resolved itself<o></o>
· Went and got the batteries tested at sears I was told the batteries were good but when they tested them they did not disconnect the batteries.<o></o>
· Had the batteries pulled from the truck for testing under load. Batteries tested good but upon reinstallation the sears technician dropped one of the batteries and broke it. Had the battery replaced with a die hard platinum.<o></o>
· Went out to the truck after the batteries were reinstalled started great. Turned on my plow lights and the truck died. Had to help sears tow it into the shop<o></o>
· Troubleshooting revealed that the reason that it died was that fuse 116 blew (30A ignition switch) sears gave me no rational why. Also airbag light was on with a code 16. Sears said they don’t troubleshoot airbags and that they didn’t do anything. Blamed everything on a aftermarket alarm/remote start system. Even though the system didn’t work it has been in the truck since I bought it two years ago with no issues.<o></o>
· On the way home from sears the truck started running horrible ant idle and under load.<o></o>
· Once home I pulled PO266 and troubleshot the blown fuse and airbag.<o></o>
· Found nothing with the airbag. Removed the aftermarket alarm/auto start system since I wasn’t using it. Found that I mistakenly hooked up the power to the switch for the plow lights to an ignition wire on the auto start system. I am not using the factor wiring harness for the plow lights since my plow lights weren’t properly working with the used harness that I had. I made my own harness utilizing 2 relays one relay is for low beam and the other is for high beam theses relays are mounted in from of the drivers side battery. I found out that the ground wire on one of the relays was knocked off and it was touching the power supply to the other relay. I corrected this problem and I’m assuming that the wires were disturbed when sears pulled the battery. I also changed the power to the switch to the extra aux wire that was supplied to the factory (goes to fuse 29). My theory is that the relays were shorted and since the switch power feed was hooked up to an ignition wire that the short caused the fuse to blow and cause the hard shutdown.<o></o>
· On the next nice day, I bought and injector from autozone (duralast injector) and changed the Nr. 2 injector. What I found was that the nut on the end of the bolt that runs through the injector and injector spool valves was missing. I then installed the new injector and but everything back together.<o></o>
· After running the truck around town the truck still ran rough. I pulled the codes again and was getting PO266 and New code indicating a ground issue on the nr 2 injector. After verifying the connection and going into the valve cover a couple times I found out that the injector was not wired correctly. It had the same color wires but when they were hooked up didn’t go to the same pin locations as the other injectors.<o></o>
· I took this injector back to autozone and bought and injector from ford. This time I did not wait till the next nice day to install it I did it as soon as I had it in hand. Once done it was dark cold and I had somewhere to be so I idled the truck in the driveway for a bit it appeared to be running better had no codes and I thought I was done. <o></o>
· Drove the truck a couple miles two days later and was running like it was supposed to but I did not check for codes. The next day I ran the truck a couple more miles and all of a sudden the truck started to blow smoke, lost power and died. Got it to started and pulled into a parking lot. I found that the PO266 code was back but the injector was not plugged in. Plugged it back in and started the truck, it initially started fine then I lost and regained power. Tried to drive the truck home was blowing a lot of black/gray smoke. Truck died several times on the way home and needed a jump to get it started again. Finally, got the truck towed the last 5 blocks. Got home and batteries were dead.<o></o>
· I charged the batteries and got the truck started to get it in my driveway, but was blowing a ton of smoke that smelt like fuel. <o></o>
· On the next semi nice day I pulled out the injector again and found that it was not properly torqued and the seals on the new OEM injector were shot (broken and melted). I changed the seals and meticulously reinstalled the injector. Verified the torque on all components several times and made sure that I had a good connection on the plug used my shop vacuum to suck out the injector area and head. I went to try and start the truck and initially seemed locked up and then would slowly rotate. But it would not start. I thought the batteries were dead from trying to crank it so I jumped the passenger side battery with my charger and tried to restart it. Got a couple good revolution then I got a puff of smoke from my passenger side firewall. I touched the starter and it was extremely hot to the touch. I then tried to start the truck several times and would only get one click.<o></o>
· Two days later I changed the starter and the truck started up. Actually starts better then it ever has. I did initially have a good amount of smoke and fuel ging out of the exhaust but that has cleared. I drove the truck around town over the weekend with no codes and the truck seemed to be running great.<o></o>
· Today I drove the truck to work 12 miles highway. It seemed a little off but I was attributing it to the sway bar bushings since I I think that I need to replace them or a possible ball joint issue. When I got into work I checked the codes and PO266 is back. Truck is starting and running a lot better. I even took a coworker for a ride and he thought it was running a lot better. <o></o>
Sorry for the long post but I’m at a loss.<o></o>
· I know the original injector was bag since the nut was missing and I saw the same thinking two years ago on my Nr 6 injector<o></o>
· I am wondering If I damaged the injector by not torqueing it correctly during the initial install.<o></o>
· I find it hard to imagine that I did something wrong when I changed the seals.<o></o>
· I’m also thinking that If I had an issue with the connector that I would have a electrical injector code<o></o>
<o></o>
Any help would be appreciated<o></o>

 

Torque to 28 ft-lbs?

Possibly over torqued the clamp and now the torque reading is off?

Still unsure how you're losing so many coil bolts...

 

I verified the torque several times to b correct. As far as the coil bolts I lost 1 on the Nr 6 injector over two years ago when I first bought the truck and lost one on the Nr 2 injector now. Not sure why