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Anthony, I think you got yourself a "problem" as it were.........
In a marine engine with water in the oil, it's suggested that the block & heads be pressurized with 15-20 psi air and see if it holds. If it doesn't, then listen for the hiss or use soapy water on the outside and look for bubbles.
You do this by isolating the block and heads (cooling system wise) by disconnecting the jacketed exhaust manifolds and risers oil coolers and/or other external cooling system connections
On this engine, the same principal applies as long as the intake manifold (if it's removed) doesn't have cooling system ports in it. just block off all the outside openings and disconnect hoses (&plug the holes) to the EGR and oil coolers.
You're just treating the block and heads as a big air tank with several openings. block them all except for 2 where you connect a gage and a valve/fitting to your air compressor.
pump it up to 20 psi or so and close the valve and listen.
If the block is cracked, you'll hear it. If it's external you'll probably see it. and if it's internal you'll hear it in the oil fill tube etc........
APR to about MAY is about the time the "boat" people are discovering that their inboard or I/O boat has a cracked block (milk-shake oil) because someone didn't winterize correctly (or at all!!)
Your previous experience with these coolers/seals have convinced me to never put a Dorman product on any of my vehicles unless it's an emergency and even then only if it can be replaced again in less than a half hour.
Your previous experience with these coolers/seals have convinced me to never put a Dorman product on any of my vehicles unless it's an emergency and even then only if it can be replaced again in less than a half hour.
The purple color tells me only one thing. They changed the color of the dye in they
put in the gasket compound. Not the compound it's self.
So the big question is will it leak ?
I think if I had to use that cooler I would use Ford gaskets all around.