Here I'll be posting pics, updates & maybe some personal product reviews on whatever I buy & use myself. How things install & I may even need a hand with some things, I figured that instead of posting multiple threads, I'll just make 1 big thread on everything about my truck.

It's currently a stock 1979 Ford F100 with a C6 Trans & 9" rear diff. The only thing I've done is a 1" drop in the rear just to level it out a bit!

I plan on lowering it with the DJM Drop Kit
Rebuilding the engine
Currently a 5.0L 302ci but I plan on boring it .40 over
Making it a 5.1L 306ci with some forged pistons & con rods
New comp cam (not going with higher lobes, just a longer duration cam)
Possibly some aluminum heads (if I can get them at the right price!)
I have the C6 Trans with a B&M stage 2 shift kit w. B&M sport shifter
Afterwards, some 20" rims with a decent series/profile tire (preferably wider as well)
Also, there is no rust on the body except for the bed of the truck, needs to be plasma cut out & have new metal installed.
So I figured I'd just tub it out a bit while I'm there doing the work!

I'll post some pics soon guys!!!

 

Time for a new engine stand


Mounting it onto the new stand




Finally mounted on the new stand

 

wow, this is cool we both posted a similar build on almost the same trucks on the same day. ill keep looking in on your build as I do mine

 

That's awesome! I'll definitely check your build out, forsure! I honestly cant wait til' mines done! I'll post pics of the truck soon!

 

Here's a pic of my 79 F100, no rust on the truck at all, except in the bed.. the guy who owned it before me did the UNTHINKABLE & laid a piece of plywood in the box, then used self tapping screws & secured it into place. The wood soaked up all the moisture, then on dry days, released it into the floor of the bed.. It's totally rotted out, other than that though, there's not a spot of rust on the cab corners & it's still got the Original paint!

 

haha my bed floor was all cut up the film company. You can get a hole floor piece for 350usd. theres also floor patch panels you can buy.

 

Got the intake manifold off!


Distributor


Well, this side is looking pretty good!


This cylinder & piston is seized solid!


Quite a bit of rust!


Definitely needs boring out!


The other side, not as great!


Just a bit of rust on this side.. Not that bad though!


This is what a piston skirt is supposed to look like:


Not like this:


Crankshaft looks good from a far, need to measure it with a dial indicator to see if it's still true!








That's it for now guys, more to come soon though!

 

Soaking the seized pistons in ATF to try & loosen things up a bit!


I'm getting there everyone! Not to much longer before I start making orders!

 

Here's all the parts needed for the bottom end of my engine build!

Parts have finally arrived!


Forged Performance Crankshaft from Eagle


Here's the old flexplate


& the new Lighter, Stronger flexplate


High Flow Melling Oil Pump with extended Canton Oil Pickup


Extra Capacity Canton Oil Pan


Forged Mahle Pistons


Melling High Flow Oil Pump, King Bearings & Canton Pickup


Fully Forged Eagle Crankshaft! (Still in the bag to prevent rust)


Forged Mahle Pistons, there shorter in length than the stock pistons


Floating Pins not pressed


-6cc Valve Depression for added clearance with the use of larger diameter Edelbrock titanium intake & exhaust valves!


Forged Mahle Flat Top Pistons

 

Wow ! your really going for it on the engine build

 

I'm finally getting there! I've made a lot of progress so far!

Got most of the pistons out, but 1 was being quite difficult so I had to hone above the piston


About to take the Crankshaft out


Now to take the Camshaft out


This is what used pistons are supposed to look like


This is NOT what pistons are supposed to look like, this piece of the skirt broke of into shrapnel & put a hole into my stock oil pan! Found the cause of that leak!


Stock Crankshaft & Camshaft, they have approx. 80,000 Km's on them


Got it steam cleaned using a block/head cleaner


Steam washed the engine & heads


Noticed these small cracks around the dowel hole for the trans, this should not be a problem because this isn't for a bolt, it just lines up the tranny for easier placement, but I will use some JB Quick Weld to help it stay closed


Another angle of the crack on the dowel pin hole


This weld is near the #4 cylinder outside the coolant jacket that surrounds the cylinder wall, it shouldn't be a problem as it's a solid weld that has also been peened, so I feel safe using this block


This is a picture of a casting defect (for those of you who have never seen 1) this is absolutely normal on older blocks, sometimes they may even have welds on them from the factory, because it's cheaper for the manufacturer to weld it up, than it is to scrap the block & re-melt it!


This is what a casting defect looks like once it has been ground down properly, these defects are caused by weak spots in the sand casting housing, the sand blows out & hot metal is forced out, which then rapidly cools, giving it the ferrous metal porosity look!


That's it for now, I'll have many more pictures & descriptions to come in the near future, so please stay tuned for more!

 

Hey thanks a lot REDROAD!

& ya, I guess I am.. The original plan for this engine build was a 5.1L 306ci but I got an awesome deal on an Eagle 332ci Stroker Kit! So as we both know, I couldn't say NO!

It's a small block ford that's going into a 79 F100 & a lot of guys ask me, why not just go with a big block 351ci? Well, I think that the small blocks are nice to work on, more space to get around the engine bay (once in the vehicle) & IMO you can get more HP out of them!

But most importantly, eventually I'll be taking this engine & trans combo out of my 79 F100 & I'll be putting it into an older mustang (late 60's early 70's) so the weight reduction will be a key factor in how those old girls handle!

Be sure to stay tuned & check in often for more pics & updates!

 

That stroker kit will be nice I'll be watching good luck with your build .. Your off to a good start

 

Installing a B&M Stage 2 (Street & Strip) Shift Kit in a 75' C6 Trans

Well, I've just finished installing a B&M Stage 2 (Street & Strip) Performance Shift Kit into my 1975 C6 Transmission, everything went as planned with no problems or set backs because I read the instructions!
Even though I'm a certified mechanic (Just graduated from Niagara College Automotive Engineering & Mechanical Advancements) it always helps to understand what goes where & familiarize yourself with whatever it is you're working on!

Like I said in my original post on this thread, I'll be posting everything that's related to this 1979 Ford F100 build (Engine, Trans, Bodywork, DJM Drop Kit) on this thread to keep everything organized, but I might post another thread in the Transmission section of this forum, with the pics & descriptions of this B&M Shift Kit installation, just in case anyone has any questions they'd like to ask me.. as it will make it a little bit easier to find, as long as the MODS are cool with that!?

Anyways, here's some pics!

Some bolts are longer than others, so be sure to take notes of what goes where!




Note the position of all check ***** & valve springs!


Note the position of all check ***** & valve springs!


Note the position of all check ***** & valve springs!


Note the position of all check ***** & valve springs!


Leave this valve in, take a shop towel & stuff it in there, then pull out the towel when you're ready to reassemble!


Take note of the color of the springs as well, this may help with placement afterwards!
(This didn't need to be removed, but other kits may vary)


Take note of the color of the springs as well, this may help with placement afterwards!


Make sure all pins are inspected and/or replaced!


Do NOT remove anything that you don't need to!
I only needed to remove the far left & far right valve




Also, take note of which valve goes where!


Remove the spring from under the valve, put the valve back in
& then you have to install the supplied brass plug on top of the valve!






This separator plate needs to be replaced with the supplied modified separator plate from B&M!


Take note of the stud type bolt on the hold down plate!


Make sure your workbench is CLEAN when working on the valve body (Casting)!


Have a CLEAN workspace, ORGANIZE & LABEL any parts that have been removed & BAG THEM!


You need to drill 2 holes in the supplied separator plate (New B&M Plate)
Use your OLD plate as a guide


Make sure you have the plate firmly held down!


After drilling, file down any & all burrs, needle files work excellent!


A round needle file works great!


This hole needs to be enlarged, but only on the B&M plate!


Use fine grit sandpaper to remove any leftover burrs!


Use fine grit sandpaper to remove any leftover burrs!


Using a 1/4" torque wrench, torque everything to specified torque specs DO NOT OVER TORQUE!




Most torque specs for this trans is 35-45" lbs so I torqued everything to 38" lbs

(BUT PLEASE READ INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY AS TORQUE SPECS MAY VARY)

Thanks for taking the time to check on my build! I'll be sure to have more pics in the near future, so be sure to check in regularly for updates, pics & descriptions on how it's going!

 

What do ya think so far buddy!? Haven't heard from you in a while so I thought I'd give you a shout! I've made a lot of progress since we last spoke!