I have a 99 F250 SD super cab, short bed. It came with the stock 4" lift blocks in the rear. While I understand this is to make it level when heavily loaded I am not sure I like this setup. I do use my truck as a truck but dont find myself loading it that heavy that it squats hard.

My biggest gripe with the rear lift is the added height which makes loading bikes and the like more difficult. I am due for new tires soon and would like to go bigger maybe 2-3" taller. This troubles me because that makes the loading height even higher.

Therefore I am thinking of removing the lift blocks. Only problems is I am unsure if I should remove completely or go down to a 2". I like the idea of completely removing them and going for a level look. I am just unsure how it will really look, if I will be disappointed with the loaded height (thinking issues with suspension travel loaded while 4x4'ing)

If I remove these blocks am I looking at needing to modify anything?

Any real world experience with these scenarios and advice to be given?

 

May need shorter shocks? When you lift a truck 4" you certainly need longer shocks. Remember to lower your headlights too. New u-bolts too.

 

My F250 is later than yours but came with 2" blocks as stock. You may have F350 blocks and could go to the F250 blocks. The blocks have the bump stop arms built in, so using no block at all is probably a poorer choice. The shocks will probably be OK, the "down" length will be about the same for both. The blocks have an angle built in to put the axle at the right angle for the drive shaft to not vibrate.

 

I use drive up wheel ramps on my front tires when loading my bike. using the wheel ramps, my front is lifted 8 or so inches and changes the approach angle quite a bit for bike loading.

 

if those SCSB's have a two-piece driveshaft you may need to shim the center mount bearing differently.

 

Here is the parts list you need to change from 4" blocks to 2" blocks on a 1999:

PART NUMBER PART NAME
F81Z-5598-LA Spacer
F81Z-5598-MA Spacer
F81Z-5598-NA Spacer
F81Z-18125-DG Shock Absorber (2 Req'd.)
F81Z-18125-DH Shock Absorber (2 Req'd.)
F81Z-18125-CM Shock Absorber (2 Req'd.)
N804420-S436 U-Bolt - M16-2.0x109/305 (2 Req'd.)
N811667-S436 U-Bolt - M16-2.0x108/320 (2 Req'd.)
N811675-S436 U-Bolt - M16-2.0x118/266 (2 Req'd.)
N811676-S436 U-Bolt - M16-2.0x118/302 (2 Req'd.)
N620485-S56 Nut - M16x2.0 Hex Flg Lk/PT (8 Req'd.)
F81Z-2282-KA Rear Wheel Brake Hose Assembly
F81Z-5K484-CA Rear Stabilizer Bar Link Assembly (2 Req'd.)
F81Z-4831-AH Bracket - Center Bearing
F81Z-4831-AV Bracket - Center Bearing
F81Z-4A209-BA Shim
391413-S426 Bolt





Sorry for the small type on the images of pdfs posted. My computer skill limitations are showing here.

You may consult the source directly by referencing Ford TSB 99-14-5.

I remembered this issue back in 1999, which is why I thought of this TSB. When the 99's first came out in 1998, they were too high to hook up 5th wheel travel trailers of that time period. Ford issued the TSB to help dealers help new truck owners adjust their trucks for the beds to sit low enough to tow a 5th wheel trailer without crunching the bed sides or overloading the rear trailer axle from tilting the trailer too high at the hitch.

As you can see, Ford recommends changes, in shocks, brake line, center carrier bearing support, Ubolts, and other details as listed above by model, wheelbase and cabstyle.

 

Thought it would be an easy swap, so much for that. Thanks for the info, looks like I will finish my research before I go swapping parts.

 

You definitely don't "need" to buy all those parts, not to mention that the list is repetitive (it lists 6 shocks).

To go from a 4" to 2" block you should just need the blocks themselves, new u-bolts and nuts, and maybe shims for the carrier bearing.

 

My super cab short box 4wd has a one piece driveshaft, no carrier. Hence the correct angle on the blocks being maybe more important.

 

On my 2009 F-350 I swapped those 4" blocks for the stock F-250 2" blocks... total parts were the blocks , u-bolts.. that's it.. many towing and plowing miles with that change with no issues.

 

SCSB trucks have a single drive shaft so you will need and should have tapered blocks. All 250's came with 2" blocks and 350's came with 3.5" blocks. I think the previous owner probably changed out the blocks. In the rear if you go with bigger tires unless you go above 35's I wouldn't worry about them fitting. If you are doing heavy articulation and stuff then yes lift the rear but 35's and down will fit stock with some wiggle room except they will most likely rub the front on stock rims depending on the width. If you drop down to a 2" block get a tapered one to maintain your pinion angle otherwise you will get a lot of vibrations while accelerating.

Here is my truck before I installed the 5" blocks in the rear to give it more space. this is just to give you an idea about having a 2" block and bigger tires.



The swap is easy, you can still sue the same shocks al though it may not be ideal is you constantly to heavy towing or hauling you can still reuse them. Also you just need the blocks, you may be able to get away with the same U-bolts but it cant hurt to get new ones then the worst that could happen is you can return them if your old ones still fit.

 

Thanks everyone. I will proceed with looking for parts then.

 

Is this still at stock/leveled height?

 

In this picture its just stock Now it's about 5" higher in the back and 3" taller up front 'm dropping the rear to 3" though (removing the 2" block from underneath mt 5" one). The pic in my sig is how it look snow.

 

So our 04's will clear 35s stock? I want to remember that you had 35x12.5 Nitto's right?