Yes they are Ax it sat in a field and i guess it looked like a big old yellow target. ( Shell oil truck) all the windows were shot out.

 

Ok My sons and I have gotten decent with the metal bending so its time they welded some in place. As you know the things coming back from sandblasting are needing cut out and replaced so we have a lot of work ahead.

 

replaced this is the after




This is before




previous metal repair we cut out and replaced




new repair in progress




I am running into lots of previous repairs and bondo fixes


Well I'm still working on rust and old metal repairs made by a shop years ago looks like to me. Me and my sons have been working on the metal replacement pieces as time allows.

 

My goal is to have all cabs and fenders sandblasted and in primer by October. This is such a great father and sons project. I see the pride and sense of achievement with every piece of metal replaced. My sons have learned so much with the bending and shaping. They always say start with the best body you can but bringing this one back from the dead has us pumped up on seeing it in a shiny color.

 

ONE PIECE AT A TIME!!!
they should make a song about that...
JML

 

Still doing metal repairs and getting fenders and cab right before putting on the frame. Some of the ones i was worried about seemed to go well and others required more work.

 

Progress is always good, keep it up!

 

Scott you are the perfect one to ask what thickness metal do I need for boxing frame, brackets , and bracing.I don't want to keep a lot of different size metals around since my shop is small

 

I use a lot of 1/8" strap for various brackets, it bends pretty easy in the vise. 3/16 or 1/4 for the heavier stuff. Some 1/8" plate is also handy. Check with your steel supplier, they should have a bin of "cut offs" odds and ends pieces usually at reduced prices.
Boxing plates should be close to frame thickness.

Luckily I have piles of scrap metal laying around the farm(most is rusty though) so I rarely have to buy any. Sure is nice to work with new clean metal though....

 

I made some of brake brackets and other small stuff from the 3/16 I had but my supply is low. After i posted i talked to a few guys that scrap metal and told them with price of steel scrap being so low set aside their nice pieces and i would buy them. I am still buying my sheets from the shop i worked.

 

With all the metal work i am doing I am about to get to the doors. They are in horrible shape so I an thinking of cutting the bottom of F150 doors and seperating the rounded bottom corners filling in the extra metal. I havent found 48-51 door panels yet so i think i will have to fab several of them. This would save me time and money and its covered by upholstery. What do you all think Got a better way?


This is a newer door than i will use the old door is in this thread in post 3

 

Most likely those shapes on the newer door won't be quite right, even if they look similar. If they are close enough for you, then go for it.

I have extra regular truck doors I can cut pieces out for you.....the front arch cutout won't be there, but everything else would line up. Let me know, Fedx is cheap compared to hours of fab work.....

 

I'll let you know Scott thank you for such a great offer. You are the best

 

I bought a pile of 1953 parts including doors that someone tried to chop but lost the top half. Im looking at the difference in bottom corners and seeing what i can make. Here are some metal corrections on fenders people told me to not waste my time on.




Fender rotted





new metal rolled and welded





This whole end needed replacement after sanblasting





Fabricated from mirror image of other side

The 1948 and 51 fender metal is mostly done.but i still must fab up the steps.
I have yet to blast the 48 cab but the 51 is blasted, floor done and in primer.As winter approaches I'm planing on having all parts painted to go on in march.

 

Looks like you are really getting after it. Way to go!