Location of sensors?
#16
02-19-2014, 04:50 PM
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Thanks. I just found another thread that said exactly that. 2-3K ohms resistance while holding the sensor away from any metal. I'll do that. Yeah, they are pricey at around $60. There is of course a chance that my PCB fix did not fix that circuit or that my gauge is bad, so I'll definitely test the sensor before replacing it.
#17
07-04-2014, 10:39 AM
More Turbo
Thank you for the testing information. My tach died last week and the transmission quit shifting. I pulled the sendor this morning and the connection was completely open with no resistance. I cut the wires and tested them and still nothing. I assume this means the sensor is dead. The tach needle moves when starting and actual looks like it is reading 200 rpms.
I will order sensor today.
I will order sensor today.
Is it bad not to have a working oil pressure switch.
#19
07-05-2014, 05:14 AM
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#20
07-06-2014, 12:20 PM
More Turbo
Here is another way to test the tach sensor. I will use this in the futrue as it tells if a signal is be sent to the TCM.
No LU. Code 62/628
Bad RPM Sensor
Can cause no LU (which in turn can set code 62/628 ICC slippage), shifts and LU to cycle
back and forth, and erratic shifts. May or may not set code 14/211 (RPM sensor circuit
failure).
Important
RPM sensor has a high failure rate and usually (but, not always) if the RPM sensor is bad,
you won't have a tachometer that works. RPM sensor is Ford part# E5TZ-17B384-A.
Note
RPM sensor is located below the engine oil spout in the housing.
To check RPM sensor
1. Remove 2-wire connector end.
2. Hook DVOM meter leads to pins on sensor. It doesn't matter which way you hook
up the red or black leads.
3. Set scale to AC voltage/ 0 to 40-volt scale.
4. Start engine in park. Raise rpm while watching DVOM.
5. Voltage must increase or RPM sensor is bad.
If you do a search in my name look for a post....Want to rebuild your E4OD....I think was its header and theres a zip file in there lots of info in there for doing self checks and sensor info.
No LU. Code 62/628
Bad RPM Sensor
Can cause no LU (which in turn can set code 62/628 ICC slippage), shifts and LU to cycle
back and forth, and erratic shifts. May or may not set code 14/211 (RPM sensor circuit
failure).
Important
RPM sensor has a high failure rate and usually (but, not always) if the RPM sensor is bad,
you won't have a tachometer that works. RPM sensor is Ford part# E5TZ-17B384-A.
Note
RPM sensor is located below the engine oil spout in the housing.
To check RPM sensor
1. Remove 2-wire connector end.
2. Hook DVOM meter leads to pins on sensor. It doesn't matter which way you hook
up the red or black leads.
3. Set scale to AC voltage/ 0 to 40-volt scale.
4. Start engine in park. Raise rpm while watching DVOM.
5. Voltage must increase or RPM sensor is bad.
If you do a search in my name look for a post....Want to rebuild your E4OD....I think was its header and theres a zip file in there lots of info in there for doing self checks and sensor info.
#21
10-20-2014, 12:02 PM
One quick question about a crazy tach
I have a 1990 7.3 idi with the ZF 5 speed transmission, and tach needle will stay at about 400 rpm. When I start the truck it will move around a little bit, but it always goes back down to 400 rpm. When I go to make a shift, (around 2000rpm I think) it spikes up to about 2000 and then goes back down to 400 rpm. It seems to only come alive when the truck is at higher rpms. Is this the sensor? Sorry this is so long, but I don't want to leave any details out, and I am new to this site. Any help is greatly appreciated!! Thanks guys!!
#22
10-20-2014, 01:42 PM
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Your second pic seems to show broken traces on the 3 bottom runs. Not sure of those go to the tach or not!
Fixed!
I took the PCB board off the back of the cluster, peeled apart the two layers so I could access the copper circuits (as the the two layer are separate circuits), soaked it in CLR for a few hours, then used a tooth brush to brush off the corrosion, soaked for 30 more minutes, brushed more, and repeated this several times until I got all the corrosion off I could w/o damaging the copper.
BTW, I also submerged the 2 resistors as I couldn't soak it properly w/o doing this. I wondered if it would ruin the resistors, but took the chance, as I would have the replace the PCB or the cluster if this didn't work anyway. I thoroughly sprayed the PCB with electrical cleaner after the last scrubbing and let it dry overnight before reinstalling.
I reinstalled the PCB and the cluster. The temp gauge and oil pressure gauges now work. The tack gauge give a reading but doesn't move (so I think that's the sensor).
Picture of soaking (weight down by screwdrivers because I didn't have much CLR on hand:
PCB after scrubbing
I took the PCB board off the back of the cluster, peeled apart the two layers so I could access the copper circuits (as the the two layer are separate circuits), soaked it in CLR for a few hours, then used a tooth brush to brush off the corrosion, soaked for 30 more minutes, brushed more, and repeated this several times until I got all the corrosion off I could w/o damaging the copper.
BTW, I also submerged the 2 resistors as I couldn't soak it properly w/o doing this. I wondered if it would ruin the resistors, but took the chance, as I would have the replace the PCB or the cluster if this didn't work anyway. I thoroughly sprayed the PCB with electrical cleaner after the last scrubbing and let it dry overnight before reinstalling.
I reinstalled the PCB and the cluster. The temp gauge and oil pressure gauges now work. The tack gauge give a reading but doesn't move (so I think that's the sensor).
Picture of soaking (weight down by screwdrivers because I didn't have much CLR on hand:
PCB after scrubbing
#23
10-20-2014, 05:12 PM
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I have a 1990 7.3 idi with the ZF 5 speed transmission, and tach needle will stay at about 400 rpm. When I start the truck it will move around a little bit, but it always goes back down to 400 rpm. When I go to make a shift, (around 2000rpm I think) it spikes up to about 2000 and then goes back down to 400 rpm. It seems to only come alive when the truck is at higher rpms. Is this the sensor? Sorry this is so long, but I don't want to leave any details out, and I am new to this site. Any help is greatly appreciated!! Thanks guys!!
#24
10-20-2014, 09:30 PM
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