Yeah changing the clamp first would be a good idea. Changing the PCV calve is really easy, it takes about 10 minutes or less depending on how stuck the old valve is in the tube. You should be able to see/feel if there is any oil dripping off the valve though if that is your leak. The PCV valve is in the passenger side valve cover in the back corner.
Otherwise, it's possible the rear main could be leaking a bit. It seems pretty common for those to leak after a certain while. I replaced my rear main when I did my slave cylinder and clutch. After a while, I noticed a drip. I thought I put the seal in wrong. However, after changing my oil pan gasket again somewhat recently, I put some RTV sealant on "dips" in the gasket where the corners are. Now I have no oil coming out from the back.
It's very likely that oil could be coming from the rear main, but if it wasn't coming from there before, its could be that the oil pan gasket has a small leak.
Yeah it is hard to tell. He never dropped the tranny when he changed the pan so he couldn't change it. After all this moving around could it just started to leak? I'm not to worried about it now, he didn't seem to worried about it. I'll take a better look when it warms up. As long as it holds I may make it a summer project to change it or let it go for now. For now I may jerry rig a shield to atleast catch the oil. We are resealing the drive way soon, so no need for new oil spots after the old spots are cleaned up.
No, when the oil pan is off the rear main still isn't exposed. There is still a metal lip in between the oil pan and the rear main seal keeping the rear main in place. The only time you can get to the rear main is with the tranny out of the way or the engine out..
It still is possible it is starting to seep, but it seems unlikely to me. Like I mentioned, I didn't put any RTV sealant on my gasket the first time I installed it. I had a very small leak. Enough to get a little wet and drip like once a week. The corner of the lip where the gasket goes from flat to curved is where I put sealant the second time and have no leaks!
Dealing with the oil pan is a pain for sure... there are so many bolts keeping it on that are hard to reach. I've taken it down 3 times now, and completely out once so I'm getting used to it. If the oil pan gasket is leaking at the lip, or the rear main seal is leaking, it's going to be almost impossible to check which one it's leaking from without the transmission out of the way unfortunately. However, I still have my bets on the oil pan gasket if there were no leaks before.
Either way... it's not necessary a fun job to get at, especially if you have an automatic transmission. Maybe this will be your excuse to get a manual transmission! I think that would be the best idea yet.
Forgot to respond until I was going to add more to this.
But yes I agree I think it needs some sealant on it which I will try to do next oil change.
So 1st to continue to the original thread, been really cold again. Few days here and there for high 40's low 50's. Looks like possibly a major snow storm (prob the last) anything from a dusting to a foot Tues- Wed morning. Then supposed to hit near 60 over the weekend (Wahoo!)
Anyway next topic...
We are ready to do a little offroading but I want to put some manual locking hubs in.
I was going to buy this I just want to make sure this is all I need. It does include the conversion spindle nut. Anything else I should know about switching this out? Is it pretty straight forward doing the install. I've only dealt with Auto Lockers.
Well I don't really know anything about automatic hubs, so I don't know how they are set up. However, I have warn manual hubs and it looks to me like all the pieces are there from mine. The only thing missing is the rotor/wheel bearings! So unless the auto hubs attach differently and need some conversion (maybe what you mentioned), it looks like those are a full set of manual hubs for an axle.
Basically to put them on (once your old ones are totally off and just the rotor/bearing assembly is on), screw on the castle nut (the one with the little nub sticking out, this nub goes into the washer with holes to lock it in place). You probably know, but you want to set the wheel bearings back in so first torque the castle nut down (I believe to 100 ft lbs) while rocking the hub back and forth to set the bearing in. Then you back the nut out slightly and torque it down to 70ft lbs (I think, definitely double check the torque if I don't respond with verification before you do this).
Once that's torqued down, you put in that washer with the holes. Make sure one of the holes lines up with the nub on the castle nut so it sets in properly.
Then you can screw in the other castle nut, and torque that down. I believe this one is torqued to 100ft lbs... but again make sure to check! I may be remembering way wrong, and I don't have the bookmared page on my laptop right, just at home on my desktop.
Once the second castle nut is on, just plop the hub assembly thingy (the big thing, whatever it is called exactly. I know.. very excellent terminology I'm using)
With that in, you can put in the big snap ring to keep it from moving. Then, take the smaller snap ring and place that around the shaft sticking out of the hub. There is a small indentation for where it goes, you may need to pull the shaft out because sometimes it gets pressed in and you can't see the fitting for the snap ring.
Once the snap rings are in place, you can put on the cover and you are all set! Just make sure to use good wheel bearing grease on everything while putting it back together.
I've had to take mine apart so many times to deal with the stupid wheel seals. They were constantly squealing and I was greasing/cleaning them all the time until FINALLY I found the right part number at oreillys to replace them.
Anyways, this should give you an idea of whats involved. It's pretty straightforward, just make sure to really double check before proceeding because I may have forgotten some stuff. There is a really good writeup on these forums I've used that I bookmarked. But like I said, it's on my computer at home so I'll have to wait to find it there. I think Maybe Encho posted it? Or Nighteyez. Anyways its very detailed with pictures and stuff.
Hopefully this post makes sense because its late here and I'm tired so I'm going to bed!
Alright going to continue with this thread, some what on topic and my "what should I do?" "questions" thread.
First of all I don't think winter is ever going to leave us. We had quite a few nice high 60's sunny low 70 days. This week we are going back into the high 40's and rain...
Anyways my next concern may come up pretty soon. The tailgate it losing it structural integrity. The bottom of it is rotted pretty bad and where it hinges to the tailgate is pretty rusted and beginning to get loose. My thoughts are to pick a week that's warm and take the top off and take the tailgate off to see if its repairable or if I should replace it.
To the questions!!!!
I've looked to at some other threads didn't find anything to useful. Is it generally easy to remove it? My rear defroster doesn't work because the cables are cut but I don't really care. Are the cables for the motor hard cabled back to the switch? Or is there another plug around the motor area? Any other insight would be great.
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