In the process of removing an up pipe I decided to tackle a broken manifold bolt.



Now that the bolt is out. Do I put put a new bolt in? I am consider going the route of Glenn but am not sure I will be able to get all new bolts and a gasket here. Parts are a PITA

 

I ordered new bolts from riff raff today. I gotta say Clay is on fire! I was trying to purchase on line and in a moment he called me and we got it sorted! Thanks Clay!

 

My new exhaust came today. I can't wait to put some of the parts in that have been sitting on the shelf.

When I get the new glow plugs I will have a look at wiring harness. I will keep it stock for now as the outside plugs look good.

I have one rusted out fender that I am swapping from the parts truck. Both the same color so I am going through the trouble of doing it twice.

 

I have the fenders off. Only a few broken bolts and easier to get to the manifolds. The bolts on the manifold are so rusty they don't really have a socket size any more. Any suggestions on getting them off/out without breaking them. I have been soaking them with penetrating oil.

One thing that bothered me about the truck was the hood never lined up with the fenders when closed. I plan to fix this when I put the replacement fenders on. I have not swapped body panels before. What are the tricks to aligning panels?

 

Usually each bolt on a body panel will allow for movement in one direction, although sometimes two. You need to look at the slot for the bolt to determine which way you can slide the panel. Sometimes panels will have to be bent ever so slightly, or shimmed at the bolts with washers or shims that you can buy.

You should start with the cab, because it's fixed. Therefore, line up your doors to the back of the cab, line up the hood with the cowl, and then align each fender to match the door and hood.

You can adjust the height of the hood when closed by lowering the latch mechanism (again, slotted bolt holes) and then adjusting the bumpers (higher or lower) to match it.

You can adjust the hood's fore and aft, side to side, and angle at at the hinges.

Shoot for 3/16-1/4" uniform panel gaps.

Body work is an art, good luck.

 

The body work is going well. I like the adjustability of all the parts.

On another note I am having problems with two bolts one is the lower uppipe collector bolt the othe is a manifold bolt on the passenger side. I have a map gas torch but am wondering if it is enough heat to free it.

The passenger side fender is off and I have lots of room right now.

I would like to do bellows but am unsure about dropping the Trans by myself. Hoping to be able to get some marks on the collector to put it all together on the bench.

 

I am looking for good turbo options. Will be a driver so not too hot but fun. I remember a hybrid of some sort that was a new collector up pipes and intake. Any idea who it was selling the kit?

 

I have finally removed the passenger side manifold. Last resort was cutting the bolt right behind the flange in the 7th bolt the stud. I was ten able to remove the stud with vise grips.

Now driver side collector and up pipe.

 

Both up pipes are out. And the collector is still attached to the driver side. I ended up pulling the turbo.

Nick is going to let me mock the pipes up on his engine. Thanks Nick!

I see that riff raff sells a metal flange gasket for the collectors that looks of a similar make up to the turbo mount. What material has been used here by others? In the past I have made gaskets out of a material that has a metal inner part. I can not remember what I used it on though.

 

I used Mr. Gasket part #5960

 

Is that just a u cut header gasket material.

 

Yeah. It comes in a 10"x10" sheet.

 

I am sorting parts out to do an efuel.

I am trying to find the PN for the hydraulic fitting someone found that goes in to the stock banjo bolt.

I have scanned through a few threads and would like to make a list of what I am doing hoping that it can be made a sticky for any future builders of a system.

My goal is to have a regulated return with TJBeggs PN's for the filters pump and filter base's.

I plan to wire an oil pressure switch to a relay from the ignition circuit to run the pump. I am pretty comfortable with wiring but am open to suggestions.

I figure I may as well do this as the up pipes are out and the turbo is off. I don't want to go in there after the system is all back together.

As a side note someone posted a youtube video of a guy that made a fuel block that uses the stock regulator...

 

Parts cost here is kinda of a jammer


Pump filters and bases is 315$! No wiring no hoses or connectors. Through another 200$ for incidental costs and a kit looks real good.

 

Looks like you are doing some good work! I wish I was comfortable with wiring. I could get so much more done. I'll be better once we get a second vehicle in June. Then I will be more daring with doing stuff and not being stranded.

Subscribed and watching. Where are you located that parts are hard to come by? There are some good write ups on affordable E-fuel on this forum and the Org as well. Good luck! If I can help, just let me know! Good group of guys here.