If it were me, I'd pull the vc's. You could test the uvch first to see what them numbers say. Start it with the vc's off and watch for oil spitting out of each injector. Making sure there is no oil bubbling up from any injector base.

FIRST of all, how bad and old is the oil?? Clean oil is very important.

 

The oil is at 5000 and I was planning on doing the hpop and the 99+ uvch but don't want to compound the problem.

When I had the truck apart about two years ago I put autolite GP's in because I could not get zd11's here. I am now waiting on zd11's and uvhc. Just a little glitch with the rock auto order.

I am going to look at the up pipes while I am in there. I would like to bellow them. Is it possible to do this with the engine in the truck?

 

Ya it is. The motor being in isn't so much a problem but working around the trans would be the pain.

 

Well do I proceed with the massive swap or try to get it running again before tearing into it.

 

Your uvch could be most of the problem. I'd be testing that.

 

Do I just ohm it when I have the vc off?

 

You can do it before you pull them. Outer pins are gp's and should be about 1 ohm each grounded to battery. Ones next to them are injectors, should be 3.2ish each, grounded to middle pin on vc gasket.

 

You can also test the GPs with a test light. Clip the ground of the test light to the POS terminal of the battery and touch the test light to the outer pins in the VC gasket. If the light lights up, the GP is good.

 

I have found the exhaust leak. It is at the collector passenger side up pipe. How does the connection work there?

One glow plug is infinite. One is 5 ohms. The others are around 2 ohms. The pins don't look burnt. The plugs still have the locking clips

The injectors all ohm at 4.7

I am unsure what to draw as a conclusion from this test other than a few dead glowplugs.

When the valve covers are off I would like to torque the injectors and rockers. I am hoping the truck will be as quite as my friends. Any other things to do that will help?

 

The clamp and a donut gasket slide down on the up pipe. The up pipe slides up into the collector, then you slide the donut and clamp up to the collector and tighten the clamp down with the two bolts compressing the donut gasket. The leak is actually coming out between the pipe and donut, and it eats away at the pipe. New donut gaskets usually don't fix it.

 

This leak has been here since a mechanic swapped the turbo. The mechanic plead ignorance so I have let it go. Slowly I have fixed or adjusted most everything some one else has done on the truck.

 

To get back on track with the smoke and miss. What do I test next? I w

 

well you either could have a bad injector or a compression issue in that cyclinder. just because they are fairly new from jim dont mean anything i just replaced 2 bad injectors that were acting weird from full force they tested them on the bench and they passed just because it passes on the bench dont mean it will work in the truck even jim has told me this fact he had the same issuse with his own truck as well as well as steve raceridemx

 

Check engine light on?

 

No check engine light on.


The truck is in the driveway now exhaust on the ground and passenger fender coming off.

I swapped the doors off the parts truck so I am a little closer to getting the updated mirrors in. I still have to finalize placement and weld. Then I will sort the wiring to have power and defrost. If all goes well I will put in the electric locks. I do have an alarm system that has all the bells and whistles but that is going to be a little further on.

As for the running issue. I believe I have a few bad flow plugs and maybe some harness issues. The plug outside the gasket are great! Far better than my last OBS.

The fuel looks good in the bowl.

So for now I will blame glow-plugs bad oil and exhaust leaks, maybe throw a little hpop on there as well. I need to get motivated to put in the t500.

All this and I still have s shaped rear leaf springs to deal with!