looks good dude but its not the trans crossmemeber i am having problems with its the one before that the crossmember that supports the cab. and the one after the engine cross memeber. but thanks for the pic dude i like good job you make that your self?

 

Looks doable. How long is your drive shaft? How much did you have to get it shortened? Or did you find one from another vehicle?
Thanks Alex

 

Alex, I removed the original trans. cross member to gain the clearance needed. This one replaced it.The drive line is the stock one, no modification needed to the length. Removing the original cross member gave all the clearance needed for headers and exhaust.

 

Sounds good. I can not wait to get the motor in. Just waiting on parts

 

Can you tell me how many inches you trans cross member is dropped down?
Or maybe all the measurements of your cross member so i can fab up my own.
And also how long is the metal bar between the v mounts on your long tail c6?

Thanks Alex

 

So I completely forgot about a trans cooler. And have been looking and reading and can't really figure out what would be the best one for me to get. I like this
http://bmracing.com/?wpsc-product=automatic-transmission-supercooler-9800-btu-rated-11x5-34x34

But not sure if I should get this one or just a stock one. Difference in price not that much. Any suggestions?
Alex

 

The original cooler was a oil-to-coolant design in the radiator. The B&M cooler you are looking at is designed to be added to that in-radiator cooler (as was the factory design). I don't think a cooler in that size is capable of properly cooling the transmission on its own. I think you will need to research this further to find something large enough to keep the oil below about 200 degrees. Perhaps a phone call to B&M? One last thought, I have heard of people using recycled a/c condensers for that purpose.

Lou Manglass

 

I was thinking of doing the same thing with my swap, but have heard the existing trans cross member needs to be left in place or modified as it provides structural support for the spring hangers. What is your take on this issue?

 

---6''x1,1/2"x1/4 flat bar. The uprights are a piece of one and a half inch square tubing split in half to form each side. The rubber mount is a cab mount with the appropriat size flat washers and bolt. The depth of your cross member is dictated by the motor mounts.Yours may be higher or lower then mine. Once you have the motor in the final possision and level measure for the cross member (don,t forget exaust pipe clearance). The simplest way to do this is with a cardboard templet. I made mine with materials on hand. Hope this helps.

 

Has not been an issue so far.I plated the frame in the area where the motor mounts attach and moved the trans cross member further back to work with the tail shaft. These four points seem to have provided good support for the frame. As a side note: I would avoid the temptation to box the entire frame if the stock suspension is used as the frames are intended to flex.

 

here are a couple of things to watch out for on these swaps. Headers need not only steering box and side to side frame clearance but also tie rod and axle clearance when the springs compress.Remember heads are off set front to back which can put the down tubes on the right side over the tie rod.(bad things can happen if the tie rod gets bent cause the spring bottomed out in that pot hole you were sure you would miss). Your gona have to work out some shift linkage and neutral safety switch.(please don,t skip the N.S.S.you would not beleive how quickly an automatic trans.will start in reverse or drive and send you down the road or through the shop wall or worse if you leave this out of your build). Just somethings to keep in mind as you wrestle that engine/tranny into its new home.

 

I plan on doing the b&m hammer shifter. On the floor. It has a n.s.s and a reverse lock already put that in mind.
Alex

 

Sounds like a good plan. Keep us updated.

 

I also am going to try to modify my stock trans cross member to work with my trans. My stock trans bolts on the side just like the new one. Going to try and just move it back. Then for the gap where the spring shackles are the old motor mounts I pull will get cut down to bolt in right where the old cross member is to fix that.

Then I think I may get a new radiator. It has a built in trans cooler. What do you guys think of this?
http://www.championradiators.com/Ford-F-Series-Truck-3-row-radiator-1968-1979

Alex

 

a good tape measure is your friend.