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E4OD will not go into gear

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  #1  
Old 02-11-2014, 05:20 PM
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Unhappy E4OD will not go into gear

I have a 94 F150 4wd, the trans had been shifting funny, I changed the TPS and the MLP sensor the TPS straightened it out mostly still had a hard shift into first and a pretty hard shift from 4 to 3. It got below zero the other day and I went to move the truck, it barley wanted to move I thought it was cold, so I let it sit and warm up to op temp. Still would not engage in any gear, I pulled the pan off and the filter fell out, I replaced filter, topped it off and still it acts like it's in neutral. I guess next step is to make sure the front pump is pumping, I don't think it is because the fluid level does not seem to change on the stick when check the fluid level in park. Not much junk on the magnet, the trans had a baic rebuild last year. I put it in park and tried pushing it back and forth it is engaged in park. I recently changed the plug for the neutral/safety switch I notice that if it's not plugged up it just wont crank. The truck runs fine no noise I can hear. Does anyone have any ideas? Do you think maybe I can just change the pump out? I really need some educated help with this one. Thank you
 
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Old 02-11-2014, 05:28 PM
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This trans is 100% computer controlled.. so you need to pull the codes to see what the computer thinks is wrong.
 
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Old 02-11-2014, 05:45 PM
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Thank you

As the truck will not move, and I do not have a reader, it makes it kind of hard on me to do this. I know it would help but I am a full time student right now and this has hit me at the worst time. I just did a double check on the fluid level changes on the stick, it does not move when the motor is running. So, I am guessing I may have messed up putting the filter in somehow or the pump is out. I did have a hard time removing all the old O ring from the old filter, I am not sure if I got the filter up in the hole as far as it should be. The trans shifted strong and was doing pretty well until this. IDK..
 
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Old 02-11-2014, 05:54 PM
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You don't need any special tools to pull codes a paperclip will do. Find the EEC Test connector under the hood near the drivers side hood hinge, put the paperclip between the Self-Test IN and SIG-RTN pins, turn the key to run and count the flashes on the check engine light. Codes will flash out with longer pauses between digits and a single flash separating the stored codes from realtime codes, and you just have to turn the key off and on to start the sequence all over again.

 
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Old 02-11-2014, 06:00 PM
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@Conanski types faster than I do.
 

Last edited by broke vet; 02-11-2014 at 06:01 PM. Reason: Duplicate information
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Old 02-11-2014, 06:03 PM
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Awesome, thanks so much

I will try this first thing in the morning. The more I think about it the more I have a feeling the filter tube may not be seated up in the hole very well, the old O ring was stuck there and gave me a hard time. Does it need to be seated perfectly in place to pull fluid?
 
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Old 02-11-2014, 06:25 PM
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Thanks so much guys, this is my D.D. and we're having bad weather here, I am on a budget and it means a lot to me.
 
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Old 02-12-2014, 11:04 AM
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got the codes

I get a 116 then a 636 and it repeats..
 
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Old 02-12-2014, 11:25 AM
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also seems to give a 433, 462, 812, can't find any info on these
 
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Old 02-12-2014, 12:14 PM
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Does it move if you cancel overdrive?
 
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Old 02-12-2014, 12:19 PM
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No sir, I have tried all the gears, shifter the transfer case into 4 hi and 4 low. I just pulled the pan off and the new filter had fluid in it like it was pulling fluid but the dipstick levels were not changing. I don't see how a big trans like that could burn right up almost overnight parked..I only let it idle for a few minutes. It does not make any noise..
 
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Old 02-12-2014, 12:23 PM
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Doesn't take much slipping for a clutch to die.

Anyways, I'd try re-seating the filter, and verify that the o-ring seal is properly in place.

A complete fluid change probably wouldn't hurt either to try either - which means draining the torque converter.
 
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Old 02-12-2014, 12:33 PM
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code 636 might be the transmission range sensor (TRS), also called the neutrual saftely switch or Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS) depending on who you ask and where you order it. A shop I know calls it a neutrual safety switch, the dealership by me calls it a TRS and on this site you see it called a MLPS.

It's located on the top of the transmission - drivers side. Make sure its plugged in all the way. Mine wasn't at one point and once reseated fixed my problem.
 
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Old 02-12-2014, 12:46 PM
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Thanks guys, yeah I changed the trs/mlps I did not get the plug on good and it would not turn over, I got it on there now. It was bad and making it shift funny, and I changed the tps and that really helped, when I parked it it just had a hard upshift to first, and a hard down shift from 4 to 3, but went up thru the gears great, like a new one.

I know I did not have the filter seated 100% because the old O ring was like welded into the grove in the trans, I got as much out as I could thinking it would be fine. there was no pieces in the pan or on the magnet in the pan just some "fuzz" like normal. Damdest thing I ever saw. I really thank you all for the input I am not a trans guy and I need all the help I can get. It's snowing now, were susposed to get a good one I am going to try and get all the old O ring out of there and see if I can get the filter back in it and try again. I figured the hard shifts the sensors did not fix was maybe because the filter was working it's way out, it fell out parked and I had not been on any rough roads since I got the truck. IDK?
 
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Old 02-12-2014, 03:14 PM
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Is your 3rd brake light out or the interior light not working? Is the speedo acting strange like bouncing around once you are over 45?
 


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