So many out there. heidts, no limit, etc. Anything to mention on your installation? Quality? Price?

 

Take a look here, make your own judgement...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14001836

 

Add the welders series 4 bar and triangulated 4 bar. I used the triangulated and their service was outstanding even with them being up in canuck land. I had so good an experience in phone conversations that I went back for other tabs, brackets and their anti sway bar. Even though I could have gotten those items quicker elsewhere.

Rear Four Link Kit – Triangulated | Welder Series Inc.

 

I also used the welder series triangulated kit as emay did. Great kit if you like to do more of the work yourself.

 

I can also Vouch for DW and Paul at Welderseries, I have used them many times. On my 52 I went with a Parallel 4 bar from Ridetech.

 

axracer will probably be in here soon. Hes kinda the resident suspension expert.

 

I have a TCI but have nothing to compare it too. So, I have no way of telling you how good it is.

 

I also have a TCI, am very impressed with the quality of the parts.

 

I went with tci. nice polished stainless , but do not like the shocks that came with it. they are named all American. the chrome plating on them lasted about a year. I like the system, but would pick different coil-overs. they may have up-graded these by now. the springs are good but the shocks. not so great.

 

I went with the No Limit parallel 4 Bar. No issues, solid engineering. Only complaint is there instructions could be better as almost all the manufactures I have dealt with.

 

I also went with a TCI four link. Really happy with the quality. The folks were helpful with the install. Attached is a link to a pictue of my setup. Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - ungerp's Album: Garage - My Mistress - Picture

 

I didn't mention, got mine with Ridetech coil-overs.

You have a good looking truck, like the work you have done on it.

 

Since someone banged on my door, I'll weigh in with my opinion, not on who's kit is best, I certainly have not looked at very many of them, but rather on the type: parallel 4 bar vs triangulated vs other.
Parallel 4 bar is basically a straight line racing suspension design. It requires a separate panhard bar or watts linkage to keep the rear axle (sorta) centered between the frame rails as the suspension moves. All those pivots in different planes work reasonably well while the vehicle is moving in a straight line and the rear axle is moving up and down perpendicular to the frame such as when accelerating and decelerating (drag racing). The packaging is compact leaving most of the area between the frame rails open for gas tank and/or exhaust routing without a lot of moving parts in the way. and the bars are very adjustable for pinion angle and frame squat or lift for weight transfer. It is the rear suspension choice for a large percentage of drag racers. However it is NOT a significant rear suspension choice for vehicles with solid rear axles that need to go around turns such as OEM manufacturers, road racers, autocrossers, and circle track racers. As soon as you twist the axle relative to the frame such as due to body roll in a corner, all those bars with their independent pivot points go into bind and operate asymmetrically on the rear axle causing it to jump around relative to the frame centerline. The bind becomes more pronounced in a vehicle with a high roll center and/or center of gravity because the angular displacement of the axle due to body roll is much greater in such a vehicle and the high frame height usually means the bars are installed at an angle rather than horizontally parallel to the ground for appearance and convenience so the frame mounts do not hang down excessively. A panhard bar moves the axle side to side as it operates, the shorter the bar and less parallel to the ground at rest it is the more pronounced this side to side movement becomes. Circle track racers use this angular displacement to their advantage by making the panhard bar's pivot height adjustable allowing them to load one side or the other changing the balance and handling of the car. This is great if you are driving fast in one direction around a banked circle, not very great if you are driving on a flat highway and turning left and right around various radius turns at a variety of speeds. Oh yah throw in the coil overs and you have added 4 more pivots and more axle movement wanting to bind up. If you installed a 4 link/panhard bar/coilover design suspension with all rigid pivots like heim ends and solid bushings, and drove it hard on the street or around a road course, it would be a miracle if it moved at all, and would very quickly destroy itself. They only saving grace is in the use of large soft compliant bushings at the pivot points to allow the bars to move around, and by severely limiting the angular displacement of the rear axle relative to the frame, a very difficult task given the design of one of our trucks. Even with rubber bushed pivots limiting axle roll by lowering the roll center, drastically stiffening the suspension, and reducing cornering speeds it is not unusual to break bars and/or mounts and beat the rubber bushings to death rather quickly.
OEM manufacturers when they moved away from parallel leaf rear suspensions to coil springs needed to find a suspension design that allowed a compliant suspension movement that was not in bind, was relatively compact package and didn't have the panhard bar's disconcerting rear end shimmy dance.
By analyzing the suspension movement on their new computer modeling programs they could see exactly what happened when they moved pivots and connectors around and the development of the triangulated multi-link suspension was the result. Government mandated safety rules dictated moving the gas tank from the center rear to behind/under the rear seat along with changing customer's needs, fuel cost curtailing long trips, space saver spares, and smaller two vehicle families all reduced the need/desire for large cavernous trunks, all created space for the new suspension links. By angling the connectors towards the center of the vehicle at the front the pivots better followed and controlled the rear axle's movement and centered the axle side to side by virtually acting like the radius rods of year's gone by.
The aftermarket came up with a slightly compromised ("universalized") version of this suspension design they named the triangulated 3 or 4 link suspension. Much more street use friendly design than the parallel 4 bar, eliminating most of the movement bind, stresses on components, rear axle shimmy by eliminating the panhard bar and harsh ride of the required overly stiff suspension. This design allows the shocks and swaybar to work in concert rather than in bind.
What was given up was a more critical design. The more ideally the pivot locations are placed the better the suspension handles, requiring either custom designed setups or a compromised arrangement of bars and pivots that still has some bind so still requires rubber bushed pivots, and reduced/more complex adjustability for straight line accelleration due to design interelationships, and finally a less compact packaging.
Bottom line advice is to decide what is your primary use/goal for the vehicle then choose the suspension design that best suits those needs/desires. If your primary use is highway driving, then a triangulated link design would be my choice, unless you are building primarily a dedicated drag racer in which case a parallel 4 link will serve you best,

 

Wow! Great write up. Thanks for sharing all of that knowledge.

 

Thank you AX for taking the time to explain that.