Hi , First let me say there is huge differance between a drag race 4-link and a streetrod 4-bar!!! Drag race 4-links angle the top bar much like a ladder bar setup and that will bind but a street 4 bars work quite well. I have used heidts and tci both are about the same. Tci mounts higher so it works better if your truck sets lower. You should try to keep the bars level with the ground. I plan to use johnny joints in the 4 bar that I will build for my chassis, they are rebuildable and dont bind. Thats my 2 cents worth!!

 

I'm running a No Limit Front and Rear suspension. If I had to put my two cents in I would tell you to add some consideration on the support you will receive from a suspension company in the future and the customer service. If i could choose it again I think I would use a TCI or other suspension. While I like my suspension I don't particularly enjoy the customer service or support at No Limit.

 

I think you mean the other way around, I've never seen a drag racing 4 bar with angled top bars, only street setup.
Here's a current drag racing 4 bar setup:


note that the panhard bar has been replaced with a diagonal locator bar to reduce rear axle side to side shift that you get with a short panhard bar

 

yes, this is for a 56 f100 steet truck / driver.. so the trianglated is preffered according to Axe. Thanks fo ryour wealth of knowledge

 

Having built and raced a super gas drag car I can assure You that My drag car ran the top bar angled!! Those long diagnoal links flex alot. I used a wishbone on my drag car. Most street setups do not even have adjustable holes, so you have no choice but to run bars parallel!!! Take look at heidts or tci and Me how you would run those angled? I have ran these for years so I can tell You they work.

 

Here is an under construction picture of the rear suspension in my good friend Mike Janis's 2013 US nationals winning Pro Mod Camaro. Note that the 4 link bars are parallel.


I never said a triangulated 4 link can't work on a drag race car, evidently you showed that in your car (did it beat the guys running parallel 4 links tho?) I said a triangulated 4 link will work better for the street. Heidts make both parallel and triangulated 4 links. Heidts tri-4link kit:

perhaps you are confusing the terms?
Parallel 4 link: the 4 bars are parallel to the centerline of the frame when observed from the top. The two bars on each side can be equal or unequal length, and may or may not be parallel to each other or the ground when observed from the side,
Triangulated 4 link: one or both sets of bars are angled towards or away from the centerline of the frame when observed from the top. Most commonly the lower bars are parallel to the frame and the upper bars are angled inwards towards the frame centerline (are closer together) at their front mount. The virtual triangle formed by the upper bars allows the rotation of the rear axle with minimal bind, and locates the rear axle side to side without the need for a separate panhard or locator bar. There are a couple variants on the bar arrangement: Some pinch the upper bars closer together at the axle than at the frame. (The Heidts assembly pictured is of this design). Some angle the upper and lower bars in opposite directions. (some OEM manufacturers use this arrangement with stamped arms) A few use a wishbone or reversed wishbone upper or lower bar. (this arrangement is sometimes referred to a a triangulated 3 bar setup) Each arrangement has it's promotors and advantages/disadvantages, but the commonality of the triangulated arrangement is they all allow more freedom of axle rotation than the parallel 4 bar.

 

I do not think you are following what I am saying, looking at the chassis from the side , a drag car will have the bars closer together at front, that is how instant center is adjusted, with a street 4 bar those bars run parallel front to rear. I used a very similar set as janis car on my drag car, not a triangulated setup. That is what I am saying is differant between the two setups.

 

OK, as I suspected a difference in terminology. Yes I know that the bars are seldom parallel from the side on a drag racing chassis I used to drag race, both my brothers still do and one works for a race car chassis builder. I have moved to national level autocross (AX in my user name) racing, cheaper but with a similar or greater adrenaline rush. An autocross suspension needs to be able to turn well in both directions and stick all 4 tires to the pavement at the same time.

 

how much adjustability with the triangulated is there as far as raising/ lowering or ride height? I know its done with coilover mounting holes but how far off from parallel to frame can the bars get without causing bind issues, etc.? I'm under the assumption that the outside arms need to be parallel with framerails.

 

There will be far less problems with a triangulated arrangement, it's meant to provide a greater range of movement. Of course the exact positioning of the bars would be best determined by how much adjustability you need (like for air bags and laying frame) and/or how frequently you will adjust it (set it and forget it?)

 

it will be set and forget. when installing are the bars suppose to be LEVEL ? what about the degree of the 2 angled bars? what degree is desired? also, are the rubber or poly bushings desired?

 

Are you building your own or using a kit? Usually the angle of the triangulated bars are set by the kit designer. Welder series has a triangulated kit if you want to do most of the fab yourself, Heidts also has a universal kit. Unless you drive mostly smooth roads or looking for the handling over the ride and don't mind a harsher ride I'd go with the largest rubber bushings if there is a choice.