Well this weekend i was trying to head west to do some sledding made it about an hour out of town and started hearing a clicking and got out to see coolant pouring out of my water pump, i knew it was getting due and wasnt meant to be so i headed back to town.

shortlist for this weekend.

1.replaced water pump with 100% NEW(not reman) Bosch pump, pump came with the 3 new long bolts and new bolts for fan. install went clean.

2. while i had coolant drained i decided to rebuild my oil cooler as it had been leaking on the front housing of the cooler. took it apart and did new ford OEM o rings and gaskets.

3.also installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge while i had all of this off, i got a bit of a kink in the line when running it and squashed it back out with pliers so im kinda scared my reading isnt that accurate.

top all the fluids back off and put it together with fresh oil and filter and pre charged SCA coolant.

the new water pump is pissing coolant out the very top and one spot along the bottom, whats the torque for these bolts? maybe i didn't tighten them enough. i will have to double check.


my bigger issue and my main question is, my factory oil pressure gauge is just sitting at about N with the truck cold(usually it sits in the middle), when i rev the truck up it drops off to 0

the mechanical gauge is reading about 30psi when i rev it up it just goes down very slowly.

should it not be the other way around? did i **** up putting the regulator back in? is my filter bypass plugged? what causes this?

Thanks
Dustin

 

I don't know about the mechanical gauge, but the factory one acts more as a light than a gauge. It doesn'treflect actual oil pressure, more or less only tells you if you have it or not, it's kinda like an idiot light except it's a gauge. How did you hook it up? I'm sure someone else will have more info, the kink may have somthing to do with it to.

 

it is hooked up via the port in the side of the rear oil cooler housing. i may cut the kinked part off and mount it further back just to get an accurate reading. even though thats up by the pedal box.

but even for the factory one, i cant say i remember it jumping down like that when giving it gas before? i know its not the most accurate thing but i usually see it go up when i give it gas.

Thanks
Dustin

 

Did you put both bypass valves back in the filter head ?

 

Yes I put them back. Now I am questioning if I put them in correctly though. Does someone have a diagram.

 

i hunted for a diagram, cant find anything really. i know i put it into the housing in this order

so dropped into the housing first was

spring
small metal cylinder inside of big metal cylinder.

and it was put in so that when it was staked in the little cylinder couldn't slide out and was not sitting flush with the large cylinder i staked in.

the only other way i could have put it would have made it so i had to hold it in and then quickly push it against the block. which did not make sense to me.

 

How about the one that faces the filter ?

 

well a but of a back story.

when i took the oil cooler off, there was not one present at all. but i had an old 1995 that got totaled off so instead of removing the stake marks and putting it in i just swapped the entire back half of the oil cooler housing since i had it apart.(also my block heater didnt work on my 94.5(current truck) and i knew the 95 one did so thats also why i swapped back housings)

now it has the one in the filter assembly. i pushed down on it with my finger and it had spring so i assumed it would be working fine? i don't know much about this one because i have never had it apart.

 

i am also wondering was the truck maybe just not warm that's why it was dropping off? i never let the truck get up to temp because the water pump was leaking so i kept shutting it off to check where the leak was coming from and wipe it away.

wondering if maybe i should just let it get up to temp and see if the oil gauge acts the same.

 

here is a picture of how i put it in

spring was on the bottom in the housing and the otehr part facing the block once installed.



this is what it looked like staked in and the middle piece could not spring out or anything.

 

im looking over the truck now and i notice the oil is a little overfull as well. could this cause this? truck has oil up to the first L in the Full on the dipstick.

 

Read this

diezelcrazeesidipage-oilregulatingvalve

 

Thanks, After reading that it confirms again I did put mine together correctly.

Anyways I spent last night working on it and ended up taking the water pump off again, cleaned up the mating surface more and got a new gasket and cleaned all the bolt holes out with air and a pick to make sure they were good, got the pump reseated and it all sealed nice, but now i have a leak from my water outlet on top of the thermostat housing. no surprise here as i know that's common, I sanded the surface in hopes to get a nice seal but it seems not. I may have to order that "Fix Kit" for it that is on ebay, or just try some RTV??

As for the oil pressure, must have just been a fluke, I bought a new plastic line for my Mechanical gauge and made sure not to kink it this time, with a cold motor i am getting 50 like i should and can rev it up and the gauge goes up like it should, although my idiot gauge in the dash still went down to zero. After I let the truck idle for about 25 minutes the idiot gauge seemed to kick back in and function properly and not dip off upon applying throttle like it was when cold.

Thanks everyone!
Dustin

 

Very good info in that link, but I only can see some of the pics

Rep sent

 

Never mind, I could see the pics. thanks