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New 92 7.3 what to expect over the 6.9

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Old 02-08-2014, 10:17 PM
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New 92 7.3 what to expect over the 6.9

Just picked up.. I have read the glow plug system is changed . I also see the fuel filter is quite different. ..not sure what the connection a the bottom of the filter is just yet.. Where is the glow plug relay hiding? I didn't hear any solenoid clicking..?? I understand the cavitation is more of a problem on the 7.3 .
Also this is my first automatic IDI with the E4OD ..
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Old 02-09-2014, 12:06 AM
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Originally Posted by we287gn
Just picked up.. I have read the glow plug system is changed . I also see the fuel filter is quite different. ..not sure what the connection a the bottom of the filter is just yet.. Where is the glow plug relay hiding? I didn't hear any solenoid clicking..?? I understand the cavitation is more of a problem on the 7.3 .
Also this is my first automatic IDI with the E4OD ..
Thanks
7.3 has the better glow plug system. Also a slightly better fuel filter setup. You can get a typical spin on filter that gets rid of the lower bowl which likes to leak. Sensor on the bottom is water in fuel. Relay is behind the intake under the air cleaner. Cavitation is possible, but not likely. Dose her with some SCA and call it good.
 
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Old 02-09-2014, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by hairyboxnoogle
7.3 has the better glow plug system. Also a slightly better fuel filter setup. You can get a typical spin on filter that gets rid of the lower bowl which likes to leak. Sensor on the bottom is water in fuel. Relay is behind the intake under the air cleaner. Cavitation is possible, but not likely. Dose her with some SCA and call it good.
thanks for the reply.. so far I have read the 6.9 filter will not fit the 7.3 head..maybe a special application? Quite a price difference for it to be problematic.. I would love a standard style replacement. .otherwise I am digging into this leaky thing
 
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Old 02-09-2014, 07:06 PM
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If you ask at NAPA im sure they will know what im talking about, otherwise someone here will no doubt chime in with a part no. Im running a custom twin filter setup on the frame these days, and i cant remember the part number.
 
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Old 02-09-2014, 07:15 PM
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Wix 33417, Napa 3417
 
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Old 02-09-2014, 07:20 PM
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That's great! !! Thanks guys!!!
 
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Old 02-17-2014, 03:19 PM
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Working out the bugs

well my diamond in the rough , is um, well...still in the rough...
Put the 3417 filter on...still tons of fuel leaks.. looks like I have a tank leak and the heater on top of the fuel filter is leaking...Need to find info on pulling that out to get at the o-ring..
On top of all that , I don't think she is charging..I went through the test procedure of jumping the field and checking output.. She is dipping below 12v at idle with blower motor and lights on.. Its an XLT and there already is an AZ replacement 100 amp job in there..
Besides that, I don't believe I have 8 functioning glow plugs.. Had to use the block heater to get it running..
Those are different than 83-86 and 87 style conectors...not sure how those disconnect to test.. tons of homework to do now..
Does anyone know if they changed the fuel line conector style with the diesel stuff over the years like they did with the gas stuff? reason being is I have an 86 idi truck with fuel line parts still..
Thanks
 
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Old 02-17-2014, 10:59 PM
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AFAIK all the fuel lines and stuff should be the same for diesel. The 88-94 GPs use the bullet style connector, they just slip on and off. For the fuel heater i would just pull the head off, tap it and plug it. Dont know what to tell you on the charging system, because it is NEVER what i think it is.
 
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Old 02-24-2014, 08:24 PM
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Well my fuel leak ended up being a rotted/seeping return pipe on top of the fwd tank sender. I simply gave up and tried the rear tank (after I took a sample of what was in it) even though the previous owner told me to stay away from it... so far 7 gals and no leaks and valve seams to work fine.
Installed the new alternator. . Charging good and holding around 13.5v..
Tried a used starter from a 6.9 parts truck...the jury is still out if it's a slow turning starter or bad cable. 12.5 volts ....hit the ign/glow plugs..drops to around 10.5...sounds good ...might not have all 8 plugs working...hit the starter ...first attempt yielded 9.25 volts while cranking (slowly).. enough to start (35f).... killed it and cranked again. ..now I am killing the batteries cause I didn't let it run...down to 11 volts or so then 7.5 while cranking.. stopped here, put on the used starter with the batteries in the current state. It actually turned a little faster with the batteries not fully charged...so I let it run to charge up...see what happens on the next cold start....
 
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Old 02-25-2014, 03:54 PM
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30 f cranked a lot faster..volt drop test

well it cranks a little faster. this time I used the voltmeter to check the voltage drop across the positive cable to the starter. the best test I could perform was putting the leads up to the positive cable clamp on the passenger side and then to the starter solenoid terminal post. now this test does not measure the clamp to post connection but I did measure 0.25 volts across this section of cable. if I did this test correctly and from what I have read those numbers are way too high. I am guessing it should be at least a tenth of a volt or less??? time to make a new post I guess
 
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