I have to replace this line. Sprayed it already with some PB, letting it soak. This line goes from a block on the drivers side to the passenger front side. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks

 

Do yourself a favor while your at it and replace all the metal lines, once one goes the others are not far behind.... plow truck or not.

If try get by changing that one line can and will blow another one during its bleeding process, blow others and before ever hitting the road again. About time get good pedal back again "pop" pedal to the floor time to start all over again. Best bet do them all avoiding that problem from the get go.

 

Yep, replace all the steel lines. Been there, done that, didn't get the t-shirt because I was too pissed at myself.

Looks pretty rusty under there, it's probably not a bad idea to get new rubber lines too. Save yourself the aggravation of trying to get the old steel lines out.

The block that the steel line that's in the picture goes to is part of the driver's side front brake hose.

Probably not a bad idea to plan on getting new wheel cylinders and/or calipers as well, in case bolts or bleeders break. Parts are dirt cheap, almost too cheap to even mess around with trying to free up rusted stuff.

 

If PB Blaster is the only such fluid you use, I recommend you augment your kit with some of the homemade ATF/acetone mix.

Technical Home Made Rust Buster

I've had good success with both (in different situations), and from the looks of those connections you need all the best solutions.

 

Thanks guys, good advice. Sounds like a plan!

 

Here is another bit from another salt loving state. Don't bother with line wrenches or a open end wrench, side cuts(many people have many names for them) cut the line just after the fitting and use a 6 point socket. Seen way too many wasted hours trying with leaving the line attached cut it tap socket past rust turn and never look back. If you have flaring tool buy 25ft. spool replace them all like everyone else said saves on that next one to go and wondering why didn't I just do this in the first place. From one Monroe to another Monroe(MI here).

Curtis

 

+100 on that advice. The driver side hard line failed on my truck last spring and I didn't even get the bleeding complete when the passenger side line let go. I'd also suggest you don't even bother trying to separate the hard lines from the flex lines, just go get new rubber lines and rear brake cylinders(because the bleed screws will never come out), cut off all the old stuff with side cutters like Curtis suggested and start fresh. Also a simple brake bleeder kit like this one makes this job easy to do by yourself by preventing any air from being drawn into the lines as you cycle the peddle.

 

Great advice guys, thank you and yes I plan on doing all the brake lines, they are cheap enough and I have the double flare set. When I had more spare time, I use to build 1-2 muscle cars a year, so I am no stranger to rusted parts. By any chance, did any of you happen to take pics of the brake job? Also, any recommended sites to get the parts or did you just buy local? I think I can pick up a one man brake bleeder from my local Harbor Freight Tool store.

 

I also agree on replacing all the lines.
but don't bother with steel ones, you will just be replacing them in a year or two.

GO with the copper/nickel alloy ones. they will NEVER rust and are cake to bend and form

 

I got all of my brake parts on rockauto.com .

 

Ok first make a solution of 50/50 acetone and ATF, use a metal container as the acetone will eat through plastic. You have to shake the solution up. Spray or brush on all the connections. Wait 15 minutes. If you can't wrench them off, cut them at the connection, use "BOLT OFF" by IRWIN, after that it's just a replacement, bend the new line the same way. I would suggest getting coated lines or the copper nickel alloy lines. Good Luck, PS be carefull around the propotioning valve (do not use heat)

 

I'm in the process of doing all my brakelines since the front passenger decided to blow out. Do your entire truck and not just the front, I also noticed while replacing my shocks that all of a sudden the lines around the rear t joint busted as well. Common spot apparently for corrosion. Don't cheap out!

 

... and if you don't have a double flaring tool, buy one and then buy the spool and make your own lines. Even with having to buy the flaring tool it's still pretty inexpensive.

(yes, I realize that this is a 7 month old thread)