Saggy door
#1
Saggy door
Any way to fix a sagging hinge on a drivers side door, or do you have to buy new hinges? My passenger side is fine, but the drivers side is sagging from all the extra use over the years, and requires a much harder slam to get it closed.
Not the end of the world, but a bit of a nuisance sometimes. If its a cheap easy fix I might do it... Anyone have any suggestions?
On my older vehicles there were bushings you could replace, but these appear to be non serviceable...
Not the end of the world, but a bit of a nuisance sometimes. If its a cheap easy fix I might do it... Anyone have any suggestions?
On my older vehicles there were bushings you could replace, but these appear to be non serviceable...
#2
You can get a kit to rebuild the hinges. I did that on the driver's door of my '97 crew cab. You have to take the hinges out, and i think grind/cut off the heads on the pins. I'm pretty sure I picked up my rebuild kit from NAPA. It was all pretty simple and self-explanatory.
Edit: Rebuilding the hinges was cheap and easy. Getting the door lined up afterwards was not as easy. You can't get at the hinge mounting bolts with the door closed, so it's a lot of trial and error. If you take off the front fender it would probably be a lot easier, but I didn't want to mess with that.
Edit: Rebuilding the hinges was cheap and easy. Getting the door lined up afterwards was not as easy. You can't get at the hinge mounting bolts with the door closed, so it's a lot of trial and error. If you take off the front fender it would probably be a lot easier, but I didn't want to mess with that.
#4
Yep, you should be able to get a hinge pin kit for it locally. I picked up one at Autozone for like $10 back in the summer to fix a door on a 96 f250. The kit comes with a new hinge pin and bushings (the bushings are really what go bad). I'd suggest having someone there to help you lift the door or have something to lift it because I did it by myself and aligning the door while trying to bolt it up was difficult. I'm not a small guy either.
After you get that done you can adjust the striker up/down and in/out until it's just how you want it. The plastic that goes on the striker may also be worn and giving you trouble. I replaced that with a small section of aluminum pipe that fit snug around the striker pin. I think it'll hold up longer while still being softer than the steel locking mechanism in the door.
After you get that done you can adjust the striker up/down and in/out until it's just how you want it. The plastic that goes on the striker may also be worn and giving you trouble. I replaced that with a small section of aluminum pipe that fit snug around the striker pin. I think it'll hold up longer while still being softer than the steel locking mechanism in the door.
#5
Dorman 38410 is the hinge pin kit. You need two of these per door.
Dorman 38435 is the hinge spring kit. You need one of these per door.
Dorman 38424 is the striker bushing kit. The kit contains 4 bushings. Only 2 of them will fit the door striker. Just throw the other 2 out. One kit will fix two strikers.
Dorman 38435 is the hinge spring kit. You need one of these per door.
Dorman 38424 is the striker bushing kit. The kit contains 4 bushings. Only 2 of them will fit the door striker. Just throw the other 2 out. One kit will fix two strikers.
#7
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