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1988 F250 7.5L engine issues

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  #16  
Old 02-04-2014, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by txnightster
so the module sends power to the EEC computer? I guess I need to check for power at the EEC and check if there is any resistance in the wire between the module and the computer?
PCM = EEC they are one and the same. The model type of PCM in this truck is EEC-IV. As Bill noted if the transmission is not computer controlled (C6 vs. E4OD) then you may find documentation referring to it as an ECM.

Yes, the acronyms can be confusing but you need to know what the documentation and we are talking about.
 
  #17  
Old 02-04-2014, 12:08 PM
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Thanks for the clarification. The transmission is the C6.

Looking forward to taking some pictures up here to help clear things up.

Bill D.
 
  #18  
Old 02-05-2014, 09:33 AM
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Prepare to be disgusted. After another hour of tracing down issues it is evident that I'm going to get to rebuild all of the wiring. I counted 7 fusible links and 6 places where someone incorrectly spliced in a wire.

With that said I did replace the negative cable from the battery to the engine block, replaced all spark wires, cleaned contacts in distributor cap.

Results afterwards:

all exterior lights coming on
dash lights up, no power to radio
AC Fan works
starter works
spark at distributor
rail fuel pump not coming on
engine turns over great
no fuel pressure
not a chance in hell it's going to start

Solenoid; hard to look at its so ugly.

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Wiring mess on drivers side
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  #19  
Old 02-05-2014, 10:06 AM
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The fuel pump should be wired up like the diagram below:


/
 
  #20  
Old 02-05-2014, 10:10 AM
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Does the fuel pumps run with pin #6 of the self-test plug grounded with the key on?
If so does the fuel pumps still run with pin #2 shorted to pin #6 of the self-test plug with the key on?



/
 
  #21  
Old 02-05-2014, 11:06 AM
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Sub, thanks for the feedback. I wont have a chance to test anything until this weekend.

In the meantime I have been shopping wiring harnesses. Here is the feedback received direct from their technical support.

Painless Performance: No, we don't have one that will work with that truck.

Ron Francis: Yes, we do have a kit. Use this one: XP-67 Ford Powered EXPRESS Wiring System-Ron Francis Wiring

They also have this kit for the fuel injection: FH-I460 1988 Ford Truck Injector Harness-Ron Francis Wiring

Broncograveyard: Nope, nothing and don't know anyone that makes them.

EZ Wiring: No, we don't have a kit.
 
  #22  
Old 02-05-2014, 03:52 PM
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Here's a picture of Waldo before I shot the cab with primer. It helps me to see these pictures to remember how far it has come. I'm at the tipping point of this rebuild where I can cut corners to speed things up but I'm trying hard to resist!

Thanks again for the advice.

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  #23  
Old 02-08-2014, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by subford
Does the fuel pumps run with pin #6 of the self-test plug grounded with the key on?
If so does the fuel pumps still run with pin #2 shorted to pin #6 of the self-test plug with the key on?



/
No, it doesnt run.

I wired the fuel pump directly to the battery and still no start. Makes me think i also have an ignition issue.
 
  #24  
Old 02-08-2014, 10:46 AM
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Sounds like the power relay (Brown) is not closing.
The power relays (Brown) coil is powered by the Ignition Switch with the same wire that is also powering the Ignition Coil. This relay must closed before the fuel pump (Green) relay can close.
 
  #25  
Old 02-08-2014, 12:05 PM
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Well, i have decided to remove as much wiring as possible and start over. Can anyone recomend a supplier for a universal wiring harness or am I going to have to build it myself?
 
  #26  
Old 05-01-2014, 10:37 AM
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Well, quick update on the truck and some advice needed.

Truck has been rewired and it runs again. It was quite a project and I'm actually excited to do body work.

Current Pic:


I'm currently trying to make sense of the vacuum lines. I'm hoping that someone can tell me the name of this piece? I have all the shop manuals but I just can't figure out what it is called.

This is it:


It had several broken lines but I simply can't figure out where they go. It does make great vacuum pressure when running.

I also have these three lines that come out of the firewall. The line on the far left is blowing air out to a tee which also had cut lines?


I do have the catalyst code and I have studied the vacuum routing sticker on the engine and the shop manual but I still can't make sense of it.

Any help is appreciated.

Bill D.
 
  #27  
Old 05-01-2014, 10:46 AM
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What I think you took a photo of is a Vacuum Tree.

The vacuum sticker is pretty simple.
It does not show any vacuum lines going to the vent system but other than that ist shows the lay out.
Is it the names that do not make sense to you?
 
  #28  
Old 05-01-2014, 11:00 AM
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Correct, I have been calling it the vacuum tree as well. In the attached picture is it the item next to the star?
 
  #29  
Old 05-01-2014, 12:22 PM
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The vacuum tree is the MAN VAC (MAiN VACuum source) in the diagram.
Next to the star is the AIR Bypass/Dump valve (DP/V).
 
  #30  
Old 05-01-2014, 12:28 PM
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Sub, is it the man vac towards the front or back? I see two main vacs listed but I'm guessing it is the one shown in the back of the photo.

One of my other pictures is of three hoses that come out of the firewall. Can you tell me what the hose on the far left goes to? It currently has a T connector attached to it and both lines blow lots of air when the engine is running.
 


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