Thinking about repainting my hood with spray in bedliner...
#1
Thinking about repainting my hood with spray in bedliner...
So i have the clearcoat peel thing going on with my 2000... and some really nasty cancer starting under the paint...
Thinking about just taking the cancer spot down smooth... scuffing up the whole hood and spraying it with black... but then i want to do my logo (see avatar) in bright grabber green...
I already have decals on my rear windows... about a foot tall and kinda ghosted out (black print logo on transparency.. stuck to inside of windows with window tint... both rear doors and the rear slider. I want to make my truck kind of take on the appearance of an ambulance... for trucks...
Thinking about just taking the cancer spot down smooth... scuffing up the whole hood and spraying it with black... but then i want to do my logo (see avatar) in bright grabber green...
I already have decals on my rear windows... about a foot tall and kinda ghosted out (black print logo on transparency.. stuck to inside of windows with window tint... both rear doors and the rear slider. I want to make my truck kind of take on the appearance of an ambulance... for trucks...
#2
I was expecting an old trashed out heap but you have a 2000 so bed liner seems a bit harsh to me. I would go with some SEM satin black spray paint.
First spray and area where you want the logo with the green paint. Then put your die cut sticker on it and apint the hood black. Then you can peel it off and have it showing in green.
Either way it's your truck so do it your way
First spray and area where you want the logo with the green paint. Then put your die cut sticker on it and apint the hood black. Then you can peel it off and have it showing in green.
Either way it's your truck so do it your way
#3
I thought about doing just paint... but i kinda want that rough look the bed liner has.
The rest of the paint on the truck is ok... except the faded clear coat on top sides of my dually fenders. Might go ahead and rhino line them too while im at it.
I have seen a few trucks ... ford, dodge, and chebby that have had the hood rhino lined and to me it looks pretty good... plus the armoring effect when im out on the trail brushing under trees... Motorbug does see offroad use.
The rest of the paint on the truck is ok... except the faded clear coat on top sides of my dually fenders. Might go ahead and rhino line them too while im at it.
I have seen a few trucks ... ford, dodge, and chebby that have had the hood rhino lined and to me it looks pretty good... plus the armoring effect when im out on the trail brushing under trees... Motorbug does see offroad use.
#4
#5
#7
Well, easy to see that is not the concern.
Anything you do, once I say the area that is down to sheet metal, plus the fenders, I have a lot of questions, but none of the answers will aid you.
Any where there is clearcoat failure, which is most of the top surfaces, will require taking down to bare metal and an acid etch primer, a sealer and a new base/clear application to make it right.
The "bed liner" resolution will only be a short term, maybe two years or so answer.
Let me put it this way--"can you make a Band-Aid stick to a dusty or dirty finger?".
Those area's are lifting from the sheet metal, and that means going back down to square one, starting over from bare metal, with the correct materials and process.
Shoot me-I am only the messenger with 40+ years of dealing with such, for most of the vehicle manufacturers around the world before I retired.
Anything you do, once I say the area that is down to sheet metal, plus the fenders, I have a lot of questions, but none of the answers will aid you.
Any where there is clearcoat failure, which is most of the top surfaces, will require taking down to bare metal and an acid etch primer, a sealer and a new base/clear application to make it right.
The "bed liner" resolution will only be a short term, maybe two years or so answer.
Let me put it this way--"can you make a Band-Aid stick to a dusty or dirty finger?".
Those area's are lifting from the sheet metal, and that means going back down to square one, starting over from bare metal, with the correct materials and process.
Shoot me-I am only the messenger with 40+ years of dealing with such, for most of the vehicle manufacturers around the world before I retired.
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#8
Well, easy to see that is not the concern.
Anything you do, once I say the area that is down to sheet metal, plus the fenders, I have a lot of questions, but none of the answers will aid you.
Any where there is clearcoat failure, which is most of the top surfaces, will require taking down to bare metal and an acid etch primer, a sealer and a new base/clear application to make it right.
The "bed liner" resolution will only be a short term, maybe two years or so answer.
Let me put it this way--"can you make a Band-Aid stick to a dusty or dirty finger?".
Those area's are lifting from the sheet metal, and that means going back down to square one, starting over from bare metal, with the correct materials and process.
Shoot me-I am only the messenger with 40+ years of dealing with such, for most of the vehicle manufacturers around the world before I retired.
Anything you do, once I say the area that is down to sheet metal, plus the fenders, I have a lot of questions, but none of the answers will aid you.
Any where there is clearcoat failure, which is most of the top surfaces, will require taking down to bare metal and an acid etch primer, a sealer and a new base/clear application to make it right.
The "bed liner" resolution will only be a short term, maybe two years or so answer.
Let me put it this way--"can you make a Band-Aid stick to a dusty or dirty finger?".
Those area's are lifting from the sheet metal, and that means going back down to square one, starting over from bare metal, with the correct materials and process.
Shoot me-I am only the messenger with 40+ years of dealing with such, for most of the vehicle manufacturers around the world before I retired.
#9
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SuperDuty93
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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05-07-2013 01:20 AM