I'm doing some engine work to the 317 LYB in my 56 F100. I've picked up an Edelbrock carb, updated distributor, oil pump, and hex drive to replace the Loadamatic, the heads and intake are off to clean and de-varnish which resulted in some bent push rods and stuck valves.

I'd also like to remove the mechanical fuel pump while I have good access. I'm using a frame mounted electric pump for supply and want to get rid of the mechanical that's not being used. The diaphragm is torn and the glass bowl is long gone. I've physically unbolted and removed the pump but are there any other components that need to be removed with the pump itself? Does the push rod need to come out of the motor or can it stay?

 

I'm not real familiar with the Lincoln Y-block but if it is like the Ford Y-Block there isn't a push rod for the fuel pump. The arm of the pump rides on an eccentric on the cam. The eccentric can stay on, arm is attached to the pump...

 

Well, I'm not that familiar with either one. I pulled the pump off, the arm is attached to the pump, and there is a push rod that I can move up and down but it seems to be retained with a clip or some other means.

 

Well, I guess we learned they're not the same. Not much help. Someone on here may know.

 

Well both you guys are correct. I have a 368 LYB out in the garage, so I just pulled of the fuel pump, with a flashlite, looked inside. I can see the push rod you are referring to. I also have an extra cam for it-with the eccentric Y-Blockhead is referring to..so now what? Maybe just leaving the pump off would cause problems, as it seems the pushrod needs to be under tension. Maybe pulling the front cover off to remove the rod would be the way to go. Even though I have this engine, I really don"t know much about it, but MAKE SURE YOUR NEW DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE GEAR HAS 15 teeth, not 14 as the Ford y-block has. You will break teeth on both the distributor and cam. That's why I have an extra camshaft. Might be difficult finding a Lincoln gear if yours has 14 teeth. SBF and FE"s have 15 teeth on a .491 dia. shaft (same as a Ford Y. Hope this helps some. Jeff

 

ZSK--I just thought of something. Your old distributor will have a 15 tooth gear- just swap it onto the new distributor, if indeed you even have too. Jeff

 

ZSK--correction on the shaft dia, it should have read--.467 not .491. Jeff

 

I plan on swapping the gears. They're held in with a pin that needs to be driven out. When shopping I spec'd the distributor for a '62 292 it is Cardone part number 30-2808. It's a rebuilt unit. If anyone else is looking be aware many sites list the item for sale, but they don't physically stock it. So many people have purchased the distributor that there aren't rebuild able units in stock, they've been purchased to replace a load a matic just like I'm doing. Cardone will still rebuild your unit but may not have the 30-2808 in stock.

From another site, the push rod is held in place with a snap ring so it can stay with the pump removed. A block off plate from an FE (and I presume a SBF) will fit to the block. For less than $8 it's not worth the time to make one, so I've got one on the way courtesy of ebay.

 

Here are some pictures of yesterday's progress. I pulled the heads and intake and started cleaning. Each intake valve had to be driven out of the head. They were essentially "glued" in place from the varnished up fuel. This was actually one of the better ones. The heads and intake got cleaned the same way, with lots of lacquer thinner, scrubbing, and a little wire brush work.

 

If you still need a distributor some are still available. I just recently got one from Advances Auto and there are some from e-bay vendors. http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-2808-CARDONE-REMAN-272-292-312-DISTRIBUTOR-F100-GALAXIE-SUNLINER-VICTORIA-/301031593632?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4616e196a0&vxp=mtr

 

ZSK If you still need a distributor, let me know. On our way south from Oregon, my brother and I stopped at an real old time parts house. He had two Cardone 30-2808, now he has none. We bought them both, let me know. Jeff

 

I have one already, thank you for the heads up. I was just trying to pass on the information to others to check that their vendor has the item physically in stock and not that they have them drop shipped or have to order them from the manufacturer.

For example, locally Advance Auto, Oreily's, and Autozone could "get" the part, but when they called their distributors everyone was out and they could only offer the rebuild service. I purchased mine on ebay and the seller had 10 or so on hand at the time.

 

No oil pressure.

Initially, the Ford Y Block hex drive I had ordered was too short to engage the distributor and oil pump. I'm not sure why as others have used the same setup with no problems. I found a longer hex drive for the MEL engines and went to install it. This one was too long so I trimmed about 1/8" until the distributor would sit all the way down. But I'm not getting any oil pressure.

The pump is brand new, I've primed the pump and turning it with a drill get 50-60 lbs on the gauge with oil getting to the rockers. I can confirm that the hex drive is engaging both the distributor and oil pump but I'm not sure why there's no pressure with the engine running.

Any thoughts/recommendations?

 

Assuming that you have the original distributor, measure from housing to gear-mount pin (roll pin hole location) and compare. Is the gear mounted in the proper orientation?

BTW, you dressed the valve stem tips with a file to remove the burr prior to pushing them through the valve guides, right?

 

Yes on the valve stems. There was a noticeable burr at the top of the stem. I hit them with a dremel before driving them out of the heads. After the varnish clean up everything was clean and smooth. I could move the valves up and down the guides by hand with ease.

The gear is installed in the correct orientation. I think I'm going to pull the pump, distributor, and hex shaft and lay them next to the originals to compare lengths and positions.

This one has me stumped so far.