Last night I also mocked up the airbox and rubber to the TB with everything bolted in place. As I suspected, it is just barely rubbing on the top of the A/C compressor. Not sure how/if it would wear here..



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I am torn on what to do here. Advice? Is there a place to get the right materials for this? Should I just try to find a California MAF 460 intake like this one?

 

I'd run it that way. It'll take you years to rub through that. You can always keep an eye open for something better. I wouldn't lose any sleep over leaving it that way for now. I'm curious how the repinning at the ECM is going to go.

Nice buck you're chasing, all I've got on my cameras is yearlings. I guess there's a 6 pointer by my stand, but I haven't seen it.

 

I'd find some pipe insulation and wrap the intake piping right where it's going to hit the compressor and then strap the intake tight to the compressor so that it doesn't move. Kind of like how the compressor line is insulated and strapped along the firewall.

 

You may be able to put a radius in that intake tube by putting it in boiling water for a while with the radius that you want then letting it cool while held in that position/shape.

I would also put a mount for the tube off the rear AC pump bolt.

 

It's now 25° F, snowing, and I still don't have the heat hooked up in my garage. At least I got the trench for the gas line dug a couple weeks ago. I got buck fever pretty bad last week because gun season was coming up, and it paid off, so I've been a little busy.



Now I will be getting back to it. My plan this week is to hopefully get my garage heated, and get the new injector harness installed. I know alot of guys are patiently waiting for me to finish this swap to see how it goes, so I much apologize for getting sidetracked so much.

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Any news?

I'd really love to see how you finish this out. I'm basing a lot of how my swap is going to go on what you're doing here.

I appreciate you taking the time to post all this! I've been searching for a good write-up on this MAF swap. This is the only one to date that I have found for a 460!!



Blake

 

The stock pump is 125lph if I'm not mistaken, just swap it for a 255lph pump. The stocker should handle about 330hp NA. The 255 will support 670hp NA, 550hp with a power adder. You definitely don't want to lean out at 6k under boost

 

I hadn't thought much about that. I am expecting to fall in that 330hp range, with a max of 350. Will I be able to break in my motor ok without upgrading pumps? I won't need to run it over 3k any time soon, but I really don't want to mess up a fresh motor with roughly 9.3:1 compression.

I re pinned my EEC harness with the new one so I will post up some pics soon of that.

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You should be fine breaking it in. If you're really worried just hook up a FP gauge so you know the pressure. At WOT under load you might have problems. Or it may be fine... You're in a grey area so just keep an eye on it.

 

Here are some pics from repinning the EEC.

This is the 42 pin connecter that I removed the original bank 1 and bank 2 injector wires from.(not necessary, but I did it to clean things up.)

The old harness that I removed all of the injector wires from, but left the sensors.


I had to drill ten holes in the back of the EEC connnector for moving pins around and installing the new ones. I used a dremel with a 1/8 bit on low speed to drill the holes, and then opened them up a little more with a 9/64" or a 5/32" bit(i can't remember which.)


I ended up opening up the ends of the new female pins a little bit, because they were super tight. I used a small straight pick, and then pushed them onto a pin on my factory EEC. After doing this I took a small needle nose and closed them back up a little bit, so they will be tight when I reconnect them. I also soldered the connection point where the wire is crimped into the connector. I also plan on using a small amount of dielectric grease on each eec pin before reconnecting it.


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On your air intake system, here's what I did, it is some 3 1/2" conduit, a PVC elbow, Y piece from a small block MAF inlet tract. The MAF is an extra from a 1995 Lincoln Continental and is a 90mm unit, serviced be the rebuilders as the same PN as the 1996/7 MAF 460s.

I braced the inner piece of conduit to the rear inboard AC compressor bolt. The red silicone hoses are intercooler hoses for some kind of big rig.

 

I like that setup! I am going to run mine the way I have it set up. I still don't have my bracket built off of the compressor bolts, but I'll get to it soon. I just tore the 16X7 door off of my garage, and its below freezing again.... just waiting on the new door. Until then it's on hold, again.

Before I put the rest of the motor back together, I'm going to put my gauges, and sending units in. Any idea where to install an engine oil temp sensor?

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If you are using the oil cooler I would put it in the return area, if not, then I would put it in the oil pan so it reads the sump temperature. I have the 88-early 90 oil cooler setup on mine, it is an oil to air cooler rather than the built in leak oil to water cooler in the pump inlet hose.

 

Yeah, I am not so sure I want mine in the Long cooler, as I will probably replace it with a radiator kit at some point. Not sure about tapping the pan though... If I do a remote mount filter kit, could I put a tee at the end or beginning of the return line, and put the temp sender in that? I would just leave the sender not hooked up for now. Unless there is another place?

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That would work. I didn't use a remote mount filter kit, I found an 88 or 89 cab and chassis F-350 in a junkyard with the complete oil cooler system still on it. The owner found that he needed the transmission in it so had his crew extract both. I went by later and snagged the cooler and lines, I already had a filter base from the local Pick and Pull.