I'm getting sick of my pickup just sitting there so I decided to commit to getting this done finally. For the past few months I have been compounding my project by buying more miscellaneous parts to add before I fire it up. The wiring and PCM changes are by far the most complicated part. I'll try to update this fairly regularly for updates, but bear with me as I work my way through.
I made a trip to rohner's to get a few other items for this project on wednesday, and now I think I have everything I need to install hardware wise. For some dumb reason Ford changed the airbox mounting bracket to a two bolt sometime between 95 and 97, because after pulling the airbox from a 5.0 out of the JY a few months back, I had to go back this week to pull the bracket from the 95.
My 97 bracket on the left, and the 95 on the right.
I am somewhat concerned about the intake tube rubbing on the back of the A/C compressor. Any thoughts on this?
I will try to drill new mounting holes for the airbox bracket to try to move it toward the cab on the inner fender. Without adding another piece of steel and still attach it to the fender I can only move it about an inch and still have a decent mounting location, because the inner fender bends in. This still may not be enough to get the intake tube behind the compressor.
Does anyone see an issue with the tube being right behind or rubbing on the back of the compressor? Does the back of the compressor get hot? If I file off the sharp edges will it be ok to rub a little bit?
Hard to tell what will be where with nothing hooked up.
Another option is after you have everything mounted and if it's still too close for comfort you can space up the air box mount as high as it will go before hitting the hood and it may give you a little more clearance.
I know it is hard to tell without it all mounted, but it is pretty much in the proper place. It does not sit above the compressor, but rather behind it. What I'm really wondering is if the back, top, corner of the A/C compressor gets hot. There are plenty of 5.0 intake tubes in the junkyard, but I'd rather not replace it if I melt/wear a hole in mine.
The other additions to my project that I really didn't mention before are gauges for wideband O2, oil temp, trans temp, and others that I can't remember right now. I think it is seven total; 4 of which will be on the A pillar. I will post more details on the gauges when I tear into all the parts boxes.
Here is everything besides the air box swap that I will be installing for(along with) this MAF swap.
From left to right(roughly);
-Moates QH and hookups
-fiveology racing harness
-quad A-pillar gauge pod
-Glowshift Elite 10 fuel pressure, vacuum, trans temp, and wideband O2 sensor and gauge
-Innovate LC-2 wideband O2 sensor with controller and green LED gauge.
-Intellitronix green LED oil temp, and water temp gauges
-BBK 1706 fuel pressure regulator
-BBK twin 61mm throttle body.
I had posted some of this before but it is all here in one pic now. Keep in mind, not all of these things are necessary for a MAF swap, but I was getting the wideband stuff and went a little crazy on extras.
This post has been long enough already, by typing on my iPhone, so I'll end here. Feel free to question my decisions!
So I took a few more steps tonight after I got done bow hunting trying to find this huge nine point before firearm season starts on Saturday. I took out the y-pipe collector because I need to weld in bungs for my two wideband O2 sensors. There is decent spots in front of the factory narrowband spot that I will probably work out great. I put circles on it with a paint marker where I will most likely mount them. I wanted to mount them closer to the convergence point of all four cylinders on each header, but there is no safe place to do it and keep the sensor out of harms way(potentially).
The main thing I wonder about if I mount them right across from each other here, is that they are different distances downstream. Oh well. Now to explain why I am installing two widebands even though I would only need one for tuning. I initially thought that I would use the wideband from innovate to replace the stock sensor and use the narrowband output to send back to the EEC. After many emails back and forth with them, I determined the narrowband output is only simulated based on the wideband signal. The innovate rep and I determined it would be best to use the stock sensor for the EEC signal. So I am not exactly sure what gave me the idea to run two but I ended up buying the innovate kit with a green DB gauge, and as a part of my quad pod gauge set from Glowshift, I purchased their wideband gauge kit which comes with a sensor and data logging output. I just figured now since I have them both, I will test them for any differences for anybody else who might not want to spend the money on the expensive innovate kit. Thoughts? Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
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