There sure ain't much to that! Haha. That would be fun to drive.

 

Thanks Arctic Y, for the support. I want to leave it as original as possible, just want to upgrade the drivetrain. I really like the 289/c4 combo in Whitey (my F-1) and would like to do the same.
Chris I love that speedster. I wish we were closer, I'd be there in a heart beat. I think I'll just google a subject cause a thread from HAMB is in the search results many times. I built Whitey before I discovered FTE, so I'm sure I'll figure it out. It's great to have the advice of others who have been there. Sure would have saved a lot of re-dos. Once I get the body off the frame, I'll be able to see if I can use the chassis or get a repo. The big issue I'm stressing about is how to set up the rear end. I've never done a 4 link suspension and how to set up the eventual Ford 9" rear. Unless I put a Flathead in it, I'll have to modify the firewall too. By the way if Numberdummy is on this thread, do you know if Ford made an 8 or 9" rear 56" across? If so out of what vehicle? Thanks everyone, I'll post problems and try to make them "generic" so as to fly under the radar.

 

Sounds like you have it figured out already but I'll ad my .02. The HAMB is great info (been a member since 2003, lurked since 1999), you can ask non traditional questions in the traditional "styled" forum.....but it's a grey area. Ford Barn is a great stock resource, but they will jump on you for non stock things (other then DRUM juice brake upgrade). If your like me with a stock bodied A, with a different drivetrain you need both places. Yes, there's early Pinto in it....I put the frame together to handle the 322 nailhead I have in case the pinto sucks bad. The other cars are stock bodied also, but have different drivetrains (besides the '47 car which still has the flathead). The first picture is when I got it, I drove it 70 miles home and tore it apart. The second picture is a month ago.

 

Thanks for sharing, 1oldtimer, I have a couple of questions. Where are the boxing plates, x member and rear end set up(ladder bars?) from. Also what rear end are you using? Thanks in advance. You're right about HAMB and Ford barn. HAMB is very informative. Just lurking right now to learn.

 

I bought the boxing plates from ebay, I got the ones with the holes no for looks but for the ease of getting to the nuts/bolts for the running boards and fenders. I boxed my frame for my '36 5w with solid plates and I had to weld nuts over every hole....it took days. I wanted to use a stock cross member and fit it to the model a frame but I couldn't find one and the frames I was finding were way to clean to cut up.

So to answer you questions,
-Boxing plates are from ebay
-Cross member is from Dagels street rods (he sells boxing plates also)
-Rear end is a banjo ('47 truck open center, '35 bells and '38 axles) 1" wider then the stock A.
-Rear radius rods are from a '35 car

A post about cross members:
Technical X'ing a model a frame - THE H.A.M.B.

A friends '30 coupe has a 9" but it had to be narrowed. If your going to run fenders and want to have the wheels centered in the fenders then you going to have to narrow a rear to fit other then a banjo.

 

Thanks, oldtimer for the info. Did you mean the frames you found were way too bad off to use? I've been reading build threads on HAMB and there sure are a lot of ways to skin this cat. Radius rods are different than ladder bars? Please explain. Thanks again.

 

The opposite on the frames, I didn't have the heart to cut up a good clean frame just for the center X and I couldn't find just the X around here (I found some in other states, but I hate shipping large stuff).

The radius rods are basically the stock arms mounted in a 2 link set-up, almost like split wishbones. But you need to run a torque arm, with ladder bars you don't.

Ladder bars too me are in a 2 link set-up but have bars on top of and under the rear.


I'll post some links for frames, rear end and suspension for you. But your right there are LOTS of ways of building a car, it just comes down to personal choice and safety. I like the look of early parts which is why I joined the HAMB. My opinion on model As are that a 9" is ok but 10 bolts or anything with a back cover looks funky and so does coil overs. I resisted anything from '34 and under in the 80's because I thought billet, pastel paint everywhere and graphics was the only way you could do those. One day I found an old little Hot Rod book, my mind opened up to another world and I never looked back......of course being in my late teens/early 20's I couldn't afford or have the skills to build a hot rod anyhow.

 

Wow! 1old, that is a nice set up. That's not a Model a frame is it? Was the photo an example of ladder bars? I don't think I want the four link with coil overs, I've been reading HAMB threads and I'm so confused. I like the buggy spring with ladder bars or a triangulated set up. Like I said I'm so confused, I want to do it so it's street friendly and handles well. I don't care about drag racing at all. Can that original rear handle a small block v8? Thanks for the photos and info.

 

The set-up is a '32 frame and those are ladder bars (one of many ways to make them). So Cal speed shop sell that kit, from what I've heard if you want to make an A ride pretty nice (they have a short wheel base so it's going to be bumpy) with a transverse spring it to put behind the axle like 35-48 fords. The stock model A rear won't handle a V8 even a slightly hopped up flathead. You can either use a V8 banjo (which is a little wider then an A) or a more modern rear. Some links:

How to build an early hotrod frame - THE H.A.M.B.

If you want to run the radius rods:
Technical Can any rear radius rod handle SBC/open drive line combo? - Page 2 - THE H.A.M.B.

 

Thanks 1old, helpful info and links. I will try to get this right the first time. Too , many redo's on the F-1 but didn't know about FTE.